How to Choose Carabiners

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An ultralight, pear-shaped locking carabiner that's ideal for long free climbs and slimming your rack, the Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate strikes a balance between weight savings and function.
Shop similar products| Best Use | Climbing |
|---|---|
| Carabiner Type | Locking |
| Gate Type | Screw-lock |
| Gate Open Clearance | 20 millimeters |
| Strength Major Axis Closed | 21 kilonewtons |
| Strength Major Axis Open | 7 kilonewtons |
| Strength Minor Axis | 8 kilonewtons |
| Dimensions | 95 x 65 millimeters |
| Weight | 52 grams |
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These things are super light, feel nice in the hand, and have a decent gate action. That said, I’ve found that the screw likes to lock closed after being loaded, even after something static like anchoring. I would unload it, then have to use two hands to break the screw loose to unlock it. Not ideal when trying to release from an anchor to rappel. I own like 5 of these, and experienced this on multiple of them, so not isolated to a possibly defective single carabiner. They still do their job and are light, so I’ll keep using them for the time being. I just won’t rely on them for situations where one-handed operation is required. Black Diamond and others should also be aware.
I had been using the BD Positron screwgate as my go-to belay biner, but figured I would give this a try. They are very similar, with the vaporlock being slightly larger, but still feeling light and having the same low-profile design. If I had to purchase another I would probably go with this one because it is slightly larger allowing for more uses. It is four bucks more expensive, however, so if cost is a driver there isn't much of a difference between the two.
Big dan of these superlight and just big enough to flip a munter
I keep a few of these biners on me when I'm guiding for all those occassions that require a locker. At work i use 10mm rope and have plenty of room for a munter hitch or multiple knots clipped into one point. On my own time I love these because they lighten my rack compared the traditional workhorse lockers such as rocklock, Am'd, etc..(perfectly good biners btw) that I used to use. Overall I would and have recommended these carrabiners to friends.
Vaporlock is surprisingly light for its size. In fact, it is lighter than many other smaller lockers. BD really manipulated the shape of the aluminum stock into a sort of I-beam to get the weight down. I now use the vaporlock for almost all my locker needs, except rappelling. For that I use the Mini Pearabiner which is basically the same size but has a bit thicker rod stock to better withstand the wear incurred by rappelling.
Vaporlock is surprisingly light for its size. In fact, it is lighter than many other smaller lockers. BD really manipulated the shape of the aluminum stock into a sort of I-beam to get the weight down. I now use the vaporlock for almost all my locker needs, except rappelling. For that I use the Mini Pearabiner which is basically the same size but has a bit thicker rod stock to better withstand the wear incurred by rappelling.
This has replaced my other hms biners because it’s very light but still holds a munter or clove on my larger (10.4mm) ropes. Im not sure it would do a munter well with anything bigger than 11mm. It’s strong enough to use instead of D shaped for everything else and light enough to carry several, so i use these for the majority of my locker needs (bulletproofs are my other lockers for the high grit rope rub situations).
Outstanding locker. Lightweight, no frills pear shaped crab. Ideal for uses where the rope is not moving though well suited to those uses as well. A good option is to pair the heavier stock Rocklock with an ATC and use the Vaporlock to clove hitch the climber to the anchor. However you choose to use it this is a finely crafted carabiner.
I just used this carabiner on a 1300 foot climb. I wanted to shed some weight so I decided to give this a try and I really like it. I used it to belay and rappel without any issues. The rope moved smoothly through it. It is very well designed and I will be buying some more to swap out my larger lockers.
The thing I appreciate most about this carabiner is how easy it is to use with one hand for those of us with slightly smaller hands. It is still big enough for a clove hitch and many other uses, but is still small enough to manipulate quickly and is quite lightweight.