Rated 5 out of
Reinvention of the carabiner !
Hard to fault Petzl on the remaking of the carabiner. Its like the best of a wiregate with the best of a keylock (which is really what it is). The weight is unmatched, esp. in the quickdraws. I can't find a fault for these biners and have climbed on them for a few months now every week - Petzl has done it again. For as small as they are, there is no gate " hood " like conventional biners, so there is absolutely nothing to catch on the rope end which means the smoothest clips you ever had... worth every penny and all my alpine biners will be switched over this winter !! Superb job on the R&D on the ange, which may seem odd and expensive now just like wiregates did not that long ago.
Date published: 2012-08-19
Rated 5 out of
get the blue (17cm). excellent quickdraw
I purchased several of both the 17cm and the smaller 10cm versions of the Ange to test out during my last trip to the RRG prior to committing to buying a full set. I had previously been using positrons and spirits and was generally pleased with their performance, but was looking for something lighter and less bulky.
The Ange (blue 17cm version) was everything I could have hoped for in a quickdraw. Their Dyneema dogbones are much less bulky than standard Dynex / Nylon connectors. This actually does make a noticeable difference when you have 6 of them clipped to a harness loop. This, coupled with their ridiculously lightweight biners make them the leanest and lightest draw i've ever slung.
Concerning handling and performance: The orange 10cm and blue 17cm are vastly different in this regard. In short, blue is excellent orange is not.
One unadvertised benefit of the Agne's monofilament style gate is that, for most people, it is physically impossible to get your finger stuck in the draw when clipping the rope. The narrow gate makes for a luxuriously large opening that very easily fits a rope and a human finger without danger of fish-hooking the climber if they were to blow the clip. NOTE: this is only true for the "normal" size (blue) carabiner. The rope-side biner is rigidly fixed to the bone with a nice beefy piece of rubber and the unique gate does not noticeably affect clipping feel.
The shorter version of the Agne uses a miniature biner for both the wall and rope end. While this does shave off a few additional grams, it also sacrifices clippability. The "target area" on the mini-biner is much smaller and you have to actually think about aiming the rope to successfully clip. Plus you give up the aforementioned benefit of not ever having to worry about stuck fingers.
For straight-up ease of clipping, the Petzl Spirit still remains at the top, but for best overall quickdraw for leaders who hang their own you can't beat the blue 17cm Agne.
Date published: 2012-05-20
Rated 4 out of
Hal in Idaho
I wasn't sold on these draws because it looked like the gate opening was very small. But it turned out to be an optical illusion. The gate on the large biner is as big as any standard draw. I bought three of these to test and I will buy more.
Date published: 2013-03-31
Rated 4 out of
Super light for multipitch
I bought five of these super-light quickdraws in preparation for my upcoming trip to Potrero Chico, area in Mexico with multi-pitch sport routes up to 23 pitches long! I wanted something extra light so I would not have to carry as much weight up the 2000 ft of limestone. Compared to the 100g Petzl Spirit (17cm), the Ange is only 72g! Weight adds up fast when climbing for hours at a time!
I used both sets of draws (Ange and Spirit) two weekends ago at the Red River Gorge (Kentucky) and found the Ange to be slightly more difficult to clip, as it has a narrower gate than the Spirit. However, this may have been partly due to my extra-thick 10.2mm rope. I doubt it will be an issue with the 9.1mm rope I will be using in Potrero.
If you want more reviews, check out OutdoorGearLab - which helped guide my decision to purchased both Petzl Ange and Petzl Spirit.
Date published: 2014-11-21
Rated 4 out of
Needed a couple extra draws for longer routes and decided to pick a few of these up due to the neat gate capture.
Wow, this things are really light and the gate is so effortlessly to clip that they have become my favorite draws to use.
Date published: 2013-01-03