Scarpa  Generator Mid Climbing Shoes

I have the old Sportiva TC’s and the evolv Yosemite shoes. I have Morton’s toes and wide toes and a small heel. I fit better in scarpas with the women’s vapor V shoe being my favorite. These fit really well for me. I got the 40 so I can wear socks in winter time. I usually wear 39.5 in scarpas. These definitely feel bulkier than the TC’s but stiffer in the midsole. For long trad days they are quite comfortable. I don’t see these being great in cracks since it’s really thick but I can see them becoming softer in the leather over time. I really like them. They feel sticky and I can edge really well with them.

I got a chance to try the Generator at a Scarpa demo day at my Gym, I wanted to toss my TC’s right then and there. I have some ankle issues and while I don’t climb crack, the additional support gives me some piece of mind. These shoes are super comfortable, I wore them for 3 hours straight, with zero discomfort. I tried everything to bribe the Scarpa rep to let the brand new demo pair go, but alas, I ordered them at REI :) Also my TCs lasted less than 6 months of indoor climbing, I will probably get them resoled as a backup, but doubt I will wear them again.

I have Haglund’s deformity in my heel from years of wearing climbing shoes, and though I love the TC pros and Katanas for trad (as well as the solutions for sport and bouldering) I cannot wear La Sportivas for more than a pitch at a time, and even then, they’re extremely painful. Enter Scarpa. These shoes fit my feet perfectly for all-day multi pitch trad, and the I can keep my dragos on comfortably for a 2-3 hour hard gym bouldering session. I thought I’d always have to suffer in climbing shoes, but I can rock the generators for 6-8 hours at a time comfortably. They are also really high performance, allowing me to edge and smear on 5.11 granite slabs and swimming up cracks with ease. Though they are a little high volume, they’re super sticky, and I haven’t had any problems jamming in finger and hand cracks with them. If you have trouble with the La Sportiva fit, it’s definitely worth giving these a try. They are now my go-to trad shoe.

I got this show in approximately my shoe size (street 9.5-9) and ended up keeping my size 9 pair of scarpas. I have quite wide feet and these are the few shoes that actually fit me well. I can keep them on for over and hour without too much discomfort and better yet, there doesn't seem to be any sloppiness due to the sizing. It still feels precise. I was debating between keeping these and the LaSportiva TC pros but kept these because they felt more precise, the rubber is a bit stiffer, and the fit is wide.

These things are way better and comfortable than the TC pros. I downsized 1 1/2 sizes from my street shoe size for performance fit. I’d suggest 1 whole size down for comfort fit. They edge really well, work pretty well on overhang and are great for cracks.

These are the best crack shoes I’ve ever used. I’ve used every popular one and unpopular options. These climb edges very effectively. The lack of pain makes them feel like cheating. The arch feels extremely comfortable also.

I had the opposite experience. Replaced my TC pros with this. They are not comfortable. No way. Its awful. should’ve just stuck with what I knew. Performance is diminished because of pain.