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Related Expert Advice articles
Best uses
Most climbing harnesses are versatile enough for indoor climbing or outdoor multi-pitch routes, while some are more specialized for mountaineering or ice climbing.
- Sport or indoor climbing: Stripped down for fast travel and feature minimal gear loops.
- Trad climbing: More gear loops since climbers place their own protection. Comfort and padding are key, as you may spend hours on a route or hanging in your harness.
- Mountaineering: Designed for long approaches and all-season versatility
- Ice climbing: Designed to perform in winter conditions
Key features:
- Padded waist: Thicker padding or a broader surface area helps distributes pressure
- Adjustable leg loops: Fit different body types and clothing layers
- Gear loops: Typically two to five loops for racking gear
- Droppable leg loops: Leg loops unclip at the back for easier bathroom breaks
Women-specific harnesses
- These typically feature a higher rise, a larger leg-to-waist ratio and a shaped waistbelt
- Choose a women-specific harness if it better matches your body type.
Locking vs. Non-locking
Locking carabiners: Gates lock to prevent accidental openings during falls; essential for belaying or critical protection placements
- Screw-lock: Requires manual twisting to close
- Auto-locking (twist lock): Automatically locks when the gate closes
Non-locking carabiners: Lighter, quicker to clip or unclip but can accidentally open; ideal for racking gear or for quickdraws
Carabiner shape
- D shape: Strongest shape, excellent for most kinds of climbing
- Asymmetric D: Lighter than D shape with a larger gate for easy clipping; use for belaying, rappelling, general climbing
- Pear shape: Designed for belaying, rappelling and anchor points; heavier and more expensive
- Oval shape: Smaller gate opening, affordable but not as strong or light as others; ideal for aid climbing or racking trad gear
Gate Types
- Straight-gate: Durable, easy to use; common for clipping gear to harnesses
- Bent-gate: Makes rope clipping easier; generally used for quickdraws
- Wire-gate: Lightweight, less likely to freeze or vibrate open during a fall
- Locking: Most secure; essential for anchors or belaying
Waterproof vs. water-resistant
- Waterproof/breathable: keeps out hard, driving rain while also being breathable
- Waterproof/nonbreathable: a slicker or poncho—inexpensive but traps heat
- Water-resistant: can handle light to moderate rain, breathable but permeable
Windproof vs. wind-resistant
- Waterproof jackets are also windproof, do not let wind pass through fibers
- Wind-resistant jackets are lighterweight but won't handle a squall
Hard shell vs. soft shell
- Hard shell: the most protection, less breathability, not insulated
- Soft shell: stretchy and breathable, best for high-exertion, typically water-resistant, not -proof
Rainwear layers
- 2-layer: quietest, midweight, durable moderately priced
- 2.5-layer: lightweight, good protection, lowest priced
- 3-layer: best protection, best protection and breathability, highest price
What is an avalanche transceiver?
- If you recreate in snowy backcountry terrain, an avalanche transceiver is an essential safety device—along with a probe and shovel
- Transceivers help you locate someone buried in an avalanche and it helps rescuers find you if you’re buried
What features should I look for?
- Analog or digital: Most modern transceivers are digital; some are both digital and analog
- Multiple burials: Allows searchers to detect more than one buried person; most offer this feature
- Marking function: Lets a searcher to mark the location of a buried person so they can search for another one
- Display screen: Displays direction and distance to a buried person
- Range: Listed in meters (typically 40-70m), the circular range at which one transceiver can detect another
Read full article: How to Choose and Use an Avalanche Transceiver
Dynamic vs. static ropes
- Dynamic: Designed to stretch to absorb the impact of a falling climber
- Static: Stretch very little, so they shouldn't be used in cases where a fall could occur; ideal for rescue, rappelling and hauling
Ropes categories
- Single rope: Most climbers buy single ropes, which are designed to be used by themselves and not with another rope; common for sport and trad climbing
- Half rope: When climbing with half ropes, you use two ropes, clipping alternately for reduced rope drag; common for trad climbing on wandering routes, mountaineering and ice climbing
- Twin ropes: Also a two-rope system, but both strands are clipped through each piece of protection
Diameter and length
- Thinner ropes (about 8.5-9.5mm) are lighter, less durable and require more skill to handle safely
- Thicker ropes are generally more abrasion-resistant; ideal for beginners or frequent use
- Dynamic ropes range in length from 30-80 meters. A 60-meter rope is the standard and will meet your needs most of the time.
Dry treatment
Some ropes include a dry treatment that reduces water absorption. Dry-treated ropes are more expensive than non-dry options.
- Dry-treated: Dry ropes can have a dry core, a dry sheath or both. Ropes with both core and sheath offer the greatest moisture protection.
- Non-dry: A non-dry rope is probably sufficient for sport climbing








