A harness is an essential piece of gear—whether you’re climbing, belaying or mountaineering. It attaches you to the rope system and anchors, and helps organize and carry gear like quickdraws or cams.
While most harnesses share similar construction, there are different features that distinguish them based on climbing style and intended use.
In this guide, we’ll walk through key points to consider when buying a harness for climbing. We spoke with Ingrid Johnson, an REI product information specialist who spent several years sport climbing and mountaineering. Johnson spent six years with the Climb Department at the REI Flagship store in Seattle; she estimates she helped more than 2,000 customers find and get fitted with climbing harnesses.
This article covers:
Editor's Note: We updated this guide on Aug. 29, 2025, to reorganize and add new information.
Video: How to Choose a Climbing Harness
Types of Climbing Harnesses
Consider what style of climbing you plan to do, how you’ll use the harness, and whether you might want to grow into other climbing styles. Many harnesses are versatile enough for both indoor climbing gym and outdoor multi-pitch routes, while others are specialized for mountaineering or ice climbing.
Harnesses are designed for specific climbing styles, including:
Sport or indoor climbing harnesses
Stripped down for fast, ultralight travel, whether indoors in the gym or on outdoor sport routes. Typical features:
- Self-locking (automatic double-back waist buckle): Quick and easy to get on and off.
- 2-4 gear loops: Usually only two since minimal gear is needed.
- Minimal leg adjustability: Many have no adjustment buckles on the leg loops to shave weight and create a sleek look. They often feature stretchable material.
Traditional (trad) harnesses
Trad climbing usually requires more gear than sport climbing since climbers place their own protection—like chocks and camming devices—rather than clipping into preplaced bolts. Comfort and padding are key since you might spend hours on a route or hanging in your harness.
Typical features:
- Adjustable leg loops with buckles: Either auto or manual double-back.
- 4 or more gear loops: Designed to hold lots of gear like carabiners, cams, nuts and chocks.
- Thick and durable padding: Increases comfort when spending a long time in the harness.
- Extra lumbar padding: Helps to stabilize the lower back and waist.
- Haul loop: For carrying up a second rope.
Mountaineering harnesses
Designed for long approaches and all-season versatility.
Typical features:
- Fully adjustable leg loops and waistbelt; Easy to put on and take off without having to untie from the rope system.
- 4 or fewer gear loops: For carrying a minimal amount of gear; won't interfere with a pack.
- Thin material: Designed to be worn easily with a pack with minimal chafing.
- Thin belay loop: Saves weight; on some models, it is even completely removed from the harness, and one must belay/rappel from the waistbelt and leg loop.
- Haul loop: For carrying up a second rope.
Ice and mixed harnesses
Similar to trad harnesses but designed to cope with winter conditions.
Typical features:
- Adjustable leg loops using buckles: Either auto or manual double-back. Fully adjustable to fit over winter clothing.
- 4 or more gear loops: Designed to hold winter gear such as ice screws and ice tools. One to 2 clipper slots allow for the attachment of ice clippers to hold screws and tools.
- Extra lumbar padding: Helps to stabilize the lower back and waist.
- Haul loop: For carrying up a second rope.
Key Features to Look For
If you're new to climbing, it helps to understand the parts of a harness.
- Belay loop: This is the strongest point on the harness and the only part that is load tested. Attach any hard gear like a locking carabiner here while belaying or rappelling.
- Waistbelt: Thicker padding or a broader surface area helps distribute pressure evenly across the waist. Casual climbers or beginners may want more padding, while advanced climbers may opt for less to save weight.
- Buckles: These allow you to make adjustments. The buckle in the waistbelt is usually positioned slightly off-center to avoid interfering with the rope tie-in. A harness must have a buckle for the waistbelt but not necessarily on the leg loops.
- Leg loops: Look for extra padding to add comfort. Adjustable leg loops accommodate different body types and clothing layers.
- Gear loops: Designed to carry equipment like quickdraws and cams. Harnesses feature two to five gear loops.
- Haul loop: Located on the back, this loop is used to attach a second rope or haul line. This loop is not intended to be load bearing or clipped into as a piece of protection.
- Tie-in points: These two loops are connected to the belay loop; it's where you tie in with your rope.
- Rise & elastic straps: The rise is the distance between the two leg loops and the waistbelt—typically connected with thin webbing or elastic straps. Adjust the straps to customize your fit. Many alpine or trad harnesses have a drop-seat design that lets you remove the leg loops without untying when nature calls.
Differences between Men's, Women's and Kids' Harnesses
While the materials and other technical specs are typically identical between men’s and women’s harnesses of the same model, some styles are specifically designed to better fit a women's body. Climbers of any gender may prefer a women-specific harness if it better suits their body type.
Key differences in women's climbing harnesses include:
- Shaped waistbelt.
- Increased rise: Some harnesses feature a greater distance between the leg loops and waist belt so the harness sits higher on your torso/waist, aligning with a woman’s natural waist. The longer rise can enhance both comfort and stability.
- Larger leg-to-waist ratio: Women’s harnesses often feature larger leg loops relative to the waistbelt to accommodate these body proportions. Anyone with larger thighs may also find these models more comfortable.
Kids' Climbing Harnesses
- Kids' climbing harnesses share many features with adult harnesses but are designed to accommodate a child's physique. Little kid harnesses generally don't have gear loops, while youth sit harnesses often do. Be sure to check the specific kids' model for age, weight, and sizing recommendations.
- For young children (about up to about 88 lbs.): A full-body child's harness is recommended for safety, comfort and support.
- For older kids: Depending on the child’s build and ability to stay upright while hanging, they may be ready for a sit harness. Sit harnesses help teach basic harness safety at a young age. Popular models like the Black Diamond Momentum – Kids are built with the same technology and features as adult versions, and are designed to fit most children age 5 to 10 who weigh between 35 and 110 lbs.
As your child's center of gravity lowers (due to a lowering of the head-to-torso ratio), a sit harness becomes the better choice. A sit harness teaches children basic harness safety at a young age, since a child's sit harness and an adult's sit harness are built in the same fashion and must pass the same tests. The lack of an upper restraining system also allows for the tie-in point to be lower. This helps keep the knot out of a child's face when top-roping.
How to Fit and Test a Climbing Harness
The text below provides some general information that applies to many harnesses. However, it's important to always follow the manufacturer's instructions for your specific harness model.
Steps for Putting on a Climbing Harness
- Loosen the straps: Start by loosening the straps on both leg loops (if they are adjustable) and then the strap securing the waistbelt.
- Step into the harness: Make sure the leg loops are not twisted or crossed, the belay loop is not twisted and the waistbelt is not upside down. The belay loop should face the front of the harness.
- Situate the waistbelt slightly above your iliac crest, which is near belly-button level for most people. Having the waistbelt above your hips ensures that you will not accidentally slip out of the harness in the event you fall upside down. Once the waistbelt is situated, tighten it securely.
- Check the fit: You should have no more than a two-finger gap between your waist and the harness. Make sure that the buckle is doubled back (not necessary if the buckle is an auto double-back model).
- A well-fitted harness should have the ability to adjust to a larger and smaller size equally. A harness that is "maxed out" or at the end of its range of adjustability is not unsafe; however, it may be difficult to get in or out of and may limit versatility. Likewise, a harness that only fits at its smallest diameter won't be versatile if further tightening is ever necessary.
- Adjust the leg loops: Some harnesses do not have adjustable leg loops and will use a piece of elastic to allow the leg loop to stretch.
- The exact placement of leg loops is less important than the waistbelt; it is based more on comfort. They should allow for full mobility without pinching.
- The tighter your leg loops, the more snug and comfortable you will be while hanging freely, although range of movement can be restricted. Conversely, looser leg loops allow greater mobility but are not as comfortable for hanging. The harness is safe in either case, so it's a matter of personal preference.
- Final buckle check: Make sure all buckles are doubled back. You are now ready to test your harness.
Testing Harness Comfort and Fit
It is impossible to know if a harness will truly be comfortable without hanging in it or weighting it. Some REI stores have a harness testing station or a rock wall where you can hang on a rope. Ask an REI climbing associate for help if you have any questions. When weighted, the harness should feel relatively comfortable and it should be easy for you to sit upright (like sitting in a chair).
- The waistbelt should not shift or move excessively. If it does, tighten it until the shifting stops.
- The harness should also not feel like it digs too hard into your skin. If you feel pressure points, consider a different model. You can also test for shifting before weighting the harness by trying to pull the waistbelt downward over your hips. You should not be able to. If the store lets you hang from a rope, slowly inverting yourself is another way to test a waistbelt for slippage.
- If you find yourself using too much of your core to keep yourself upright, you might need to adjust the rise of the harness. Each leg loop has an elastic strap on the back that can be adjusted in length. Shortening the rise should help allow you to sit upright in the harness without using too much of your core. If adjusting the rise does not help, try a different harness.
Remember, every body is different and not every harness will fit perfectly. Fortunately, there are many harness styles, so be willing to try on a few different models to find the best fit for you.
Harness Standards
Harnesses, like most climbing gear, are engineered for safety. The forces required to break the harness would far exceed the force required to do internal bodily harm. This may not be important to you when choosing a harness, but it's information that every astute climber should be aware of.
All harnesses must be submitted for stringent testing to satisfy the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA Standard 105) or the European Committee for Standardization (EN12277). Both of these are independent testing groups that help ensure quality standards among a variety of products.
Harnesses are categorized and defined by their shape and use. All climbing harnesses mentioned in this article that consist of a waistbelt and two leg loops are classified as a Type C sit harness. On a Type C sit harness, the belay loop is tested to 15kN (3,372 lbs.). A full-body harness that is child-specific is considered a Type B small-body harness and is designed for weights ≤ 88 lbs. A Type B small-body harness' tie-in points must be rated to a minimum of 10kN (2,240 lbs.).
For harness care instructions, see the REI Expert Advice Caring for Your Climbing Harness article.
For general climbing information and video instruction, see the REI Expert Advice Getting Started Rock Climbing article.
