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Related Expert Advice articles
Gate type
Since each quickdraw has two carabiners on it, a quickdraw could have a combination of gate types.
- Straight-gate: Easy to operate; common on many carabiners and on the side of the quickdraw that is clipped to a bolt
- Bent-gate: Curved shape makes it easier to clip a rope
- Wire-gate: Lightweight, a wire loop creates its own spring mechanism as it pivots
Sling length
- Short-length (10-16cm long) work in most situations when the route is relatively straight
- Medium-length (17-18cm) are useful for reducing rope drag in longer routes or if the route isn't straight
- Long-length (25cm+) help keep the rope running in a straighter line, especially on routes that wander or have overhangs
Get started rock climbing with this expert guide from REI. Learn about climbing styles, essential gear and how to climb indoors and outdoors.
The number of quickdraws you need varies based on the climb, but most sport climbing routes can be led with 12 or fewer.
Slings
- Shorter slings (12 in. or less): Sometimes used for tying off pitons
- Single-length slings (24 in.): Good for alpine quickdraws
- Double-length slings (48 in.): Use to reduce rope drag, extend protection, built two-point anchors or as alpine quickdraws
- Extra-long slings (72-96 in.): Great for looping large rocks and building three-point anchors
Webbing
- Tubular webbing is standard for climbing
- Modular webbing is used for lashing gear and backpack straps
Climbing cord
- Available in diameters from 1mm up to 9mm
- Thicker cord is stronger and more load bearing but also heavier
Materials
- Nylon and Perlon: Affordable, strong, hold knots well, good stretch and high melting temperatures to handle dynamic falls
- Dyneema, Dynex and Spectra: Excellent strength-to-weight ratio, ultralight and highly UV resistant
Read full article: How to Choose Climbing Slings, Cord and Webbing
Learn how to quickly and efficiently clip quickdraws so you can move through the crux moves safely and securely.
Learn about the two main types of active climbing protecction (pro) including the ubiquitous cams and the less common spring-loaded wedges.
Read full article: How to Choose Cams and Wedges (Active Pro)




