How to Choose Carabiners

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Smooth lines and exceptional strength—the Petzl® Am'D Triact-Lock autolocking carabiner is a breeze to use and offers superb versatility.
Shop newer versionMade in USA.
View all Petzl Carabiners| Best Use | Climbing |
|---|---|
| Carabiner Type | Locking |
| Gate Type | Auto-lock |
| Gate Open Clearance | 21 millimeters |
| Strength Major Axis Closed | 28 kilonewtons |
| Strength Major Axis Open | 8 kilonewtons |
| Strength Minor Axis | 7 kilonewtons |
| Dimensions | 113 x 67 millimeters |
| Weight | 74 grams |
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I've tried every autolocking carabiner I've come across; these are my favorite. They take some practice to open easily. After figuring out how to hold the biner down with my ring finger and twist/pull with index and thumb it became automatic with either hand. A little more practice and I could open two at a time with one hand no matter what direction the gates faced. I've got about 25 of these now. I use them to attach everything on my work harness and the rest with my rock climbing gear.
I use this product as part of my belay device. With some practice, you can easily open it right handed. Use your thumb to push the gate sleeve up and turn. The gate opens easily. The locking mechanism assures me that I'm not going to leave it unlocked. However, when I'm using it to belay, I found that very often it moves out of the position and it gets cross-loaded, so I have to constantly keep an eye on it. The gate drags on my belay loop and I'm concerned that it will end up damaging it. I've never had that problem using it to set up a top-rope anchor. Another minor problem I found was that if I close the gate too gently, it may stop before locking. It is still a good product, but I'll probably buy another type of carabiner for my belay device.
I bought this to use on the hoist in a blackhawk helicopter. I do rock climb as well, so it's nice to use for either purpose. The weight and size are just right and it feels very durible and safe. If you are not used to an auto-locking carabiner, it takes some getting used to, but is very simple once you gain muscle memory with it.
I'm quite a fan of pretty much everyting from Petzl except their ropes and now the Am'D. I had 4 William Ball-Lock carabiners before and everything got stolen, I decided to "change" to this because apparently it's the new thing from Petzl and I'm not liking it, it's too HARD to open it and you need to use both hands. I wouldn't recomend it and I'm planning on returning them for the old version of WBL.
I have beat this carabiner up as best I know how and it has proven to be worth the price. Easy to open and the twist lock makes you feel safe when you are hundreds of feet above the Earth!
The Petzl Am'D, used in pairs, makes an excellent 'biner for top-rope anchors. Two Am'Ds, oriented opposite each other, lie flat and provide a good rope-bearing surface for top-roping.
Probably the best autolocking biner you can get? its the strongest, the safest mechanism, and the most versatile.
I use it on the tower climbing all the time I owe 5 of them
I have been using this carabiner for more than five years. I bought it by chance a long time ago. The type of climbing I partake is: long traditional rock climbs, short one pitch climbs, multi-day alpine climbs My primary use for this piece of equipment has been to belay people and rappel with. I find this carabiner a little on the heavy side, yet most auto-locking carabiners have this issue. Almost any auto-locking carabiner requires two hands to operate and I don't see that as a problem. It's hard for me to comprehend those that do as they seem to be unrealistic expectations. Anyway, for belay and rappel I feel quite comfortable that as soon as I close the gate, as long as I double check that my belay or rappel device is properly attached, I never worry about the gate opening. Before using an auto-locking carabiner for belay and rappel I would often double check the gate to see if it was coming open or unscrewed. This tool has simply enhanced safety and that is something difficult to measure in dollar value. It certainly has stood the test of time as this piece of gear has been used on hundreds of pitches of rock. I will certainly consider buying another one. The other option would be something made in the U.S.A. by Omega or C.A.M.P.