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Related Expert Advice articles
Match the harness type to your climbing style
- Sport or indoor climbing harnesses tend to be stripped down for fast travel and feature minimal gear loops.
- Trad climbing harnesses include more gear loops since climbers place their own protection. Comfort and padding are key, as you may spend hours on a route or hanging in your harness.
- Mountaineering harnesses are designed for long approaches and all-season versatility.
Key features:
- Adjustable leg loops: Fit different body types and clothing layers.
- Gear loops: Range from two to five loops to rack your gear.
- Waistbelt padding: Thicker padding or broader surface area helps distributes pressure, adding comfort.
Women-specific harnesses
Many climbing harnesses are available in unisex models, but some are designed to better fit a women's body. Pick a women-specific harness if it better matches your body type.These harnesses typically feature a higher rise, a larger leg-to-waist ratio and a shaped waistbelt.
Locking vs. Non-locking
Locking carabiners have gates that can be locked to prevent accidental openings. Use them for belay/rappel devices and critical protection placements. Choose between:
Screw-lock: Requires manual twisting to close.
Auto-locking: Automatically locks when the gate closes.
Non-locking carabiners are lighter, quicker to clip or unclip but can accidentally open. Ideal for racking gear or for quickdraws.
Shape
Asymmetric D: Most common design; lightweight with a large gate for easy clipping. Great for sport and trad climbing.
D shape: Strongest shape, excellent for most kinds of climbing. Ideal for racking trad gear.
Pear shape: Designed for belaying, rappelling and anchor points. Heavier and more expensive.
Oval shape: Smaller gate opening and affordable. Ideal for aid climbing or racking trad gear. Not as strong or light as other shapes.
Gate Types
Straight-gate: Durable and easy to use. Good for various purposes and sport-climbing quickdraws.
Bent-gate: Makes rope clipping easier. Generally used for quickdraws.
Wire-gate: Lightweight, less likely to vibrate open during a fall or freezing shut.
Locking: Most secure; required for use with belay/rappelling devices and critical protection placements.
Read full article: The 7 Best Climbing Harnesses of 2025: Staff Picks
Brightness
Typically, the higher the number of lumens, the brighter the light.
- A headlamp with a high lumens count will consume energy at a higher rate than one with a lower lumens number.
- Most headlamps offer several brightness levels like low, mid and high (max). Others may offer an emergency strobe or red-light mode for nighttime vision.
Consider the power source
- Lithium battery–powered headlamps are a good choice for cold-weather use, since lithium batteries outperform alkaline batteries in cold conditions.
- Rechargeable batteries can be used repeatedly but tend to lose power when sitting idle.
Understand headlamp beam type and distance
- Flood (or wide): This spreads the beam wider and is for general, close tasks like cooking dinner or reading.
- Spot (or focused or narrow). A tight beam for longer-distance viewing, such as navigating a trail at night.
- Flood and spot: Adjustable headlamps are the most versatile.






