Locking vs. Non-locking
Locking carabiners: Gates lock to prevent accidental openings during falls; essential for belaying or critical protection placements
- Screw-lock: Requires manual twisting to close
- Auto-locking (twist lock): Automatically locks when the gate closes
Non-locking carabiners: Lighter, quicker to clip or unclip but can accidentally open; ideal for racking gear or for quickdraws
Carabiner shape
- D shape: Strongest shape, excellent for most kinds of climbing
- Asymmetric D: Lighter than D shape with a larger gate for easy clipping; use for belaying, rappelling, general climbing
- Pear shape: Designed for belaying, rappelling and anchor points; heavier and more expensive
- Oval shape: Smaller gate opening, affordable but not as strong or light as others; ideal for aid climbing or racking trad gear
Gate Types
- Straight-gate: Durable, easy to use; common for clipping gear to harnesses
- Bent-gate: Makes rope clipping easier; generally used for quickdraws
- Wire-gate: Lightweight, less likely to freeze or vibrate open during a fall
- Locking: Most secure; essential for anchors or belaying
Read full article: How to Choose Carabiners
