Black Diamond Astro

What type of belay device is best for you?

• Tubular belay device: Compact, light and easy to use. Lightweight climbers may find them slow for rappelling. Best for gym, sport and multipitch trad climbing.

• Assisted-braking belay device: Easy to control, feed rope smoothly and aid in stopping falls. Heavier and not compatible with certain rope diameters or icy/wet ropes. Best for gym, sport and multipitch trad climbing.

• Figure 8 Belay Device: Efficient and smooth for rappelling, efficiently dissipate heat from friction and work with most rope diameters. Harder to handle. Best for search and rescue, caving and rappelling.

Locking vs. Non-locking 

Locking carabiners have gates that can be locked to prevent accidental openings. Use them for belay/rappel devices and critical protection placements. Choose between: 

• Screw-lock: Requires manual twisting to close. 

• Auto-locking: Automatically locks when the gate closes. 

Non-locking carabiners are lighter, quicker to clip or unclip but can accidentally open. Ideal for racking gear or for quickdraws. 

Shape

• Asymmetric D: Most common design; lightweight with a large gate for easy clipping. Great for sport and trad climbing.  

• D shape: Strongest shape, excellent for most kinds of climbing. Ideal for racking trad gear. 

• Pear shape: Designed for belaying, rappelling and anchor points. Heavier and more expensive.  

• Oval shape: Smaller gate opening and affordable. Ideal for aid climbing or racking trad gear. Not as strong or light as other shapes.  

Gate Types 

• Straight-gate: Durable and easy to use. Good for various purposes and sport-climbing quickdraws.  

• Bent-gate: Makes rope clipping easier. Generally used for quickdraws.  

• Wire-gate: Lightweight, less likely to vibrate open during a fall or freezing shut.  

• Locking: Most secure; required for use with belay/rappelling devices and critical protection placements.