Black Diamond  ATC-XP Belay Device

I switched from a traditional style device with the two oval shaped holes to this one. Taking rope goes much more smoothly and I barely have to use any effort to lock it down for a catch or to hold someone for a rest. Great device and a mid range price.

This ATC is great! I have used it for everything from top rope to sport to using it when backing up another belayer. It's great whether indoors, outdoors, cold or hot. Anywhere my harness goes, this goes. It's been to Texas and Georgia and I will always trust my life with it : )

The friction teeth work very well. In fact, they work almost too well when belaying a lightweight climber (~115lb or less). You can always flip the device upside down and use the smooth end when belaying a lightweight person. Using that approach, the device acts more like a regular Black Diamond ATC.

I lost my petzl reverso belay tool and replaced it with this b.d.atc tool. Great trade up! This tool is very smooth but has great friction when it needs it.

My favorite manual ATC, there's not much of a difference between all of the manual ATC's but I like this one because the metal doesn't wear. Friction side is very good and usually not a lot of slip up.

The ease of putting the rope into the device as well as the way it grabs the rope when the climber is belaying. down

Works like your typical ATC. I use it for climbing classes and the extra friction on the nose is helpful for belaying heavier climbers as it absorbs most of the grip strength you’d normally use to hold the rope.

Overall, this a fine device for beginner indoor climbers. It can do ambidextrous belaying, two strand rappelling, and offers two different friction levels. That said, if you ever want to climb outdoors, an ATC guide gives you all the features of this device, plus progress capture and ergonomic multipich support for only $10 more.Now that I have this info, I only ever use my ATC-XP as a loaner belay device and wish I had got the ATC guide to begin with.

First time using an ATC instead of a figure-eight. Works well, durable, and has plenty of friction.

This is my first ATC purchase. I started climbing in January and learned how to lead climb a few months later and bought this guy. I have only ever used the ATC in the gym, and it is easy to use and light enough to not bother me.