How to Choose Rock Climbing Shoes

With medium-stiff camber and convenient strap closures, the men's evolv Shaman climbing shoes are powerful on small features while remaining flexible enough to smear and toe hook on volumes and slabs.
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Imported.
View all evolv Men's Climbing ShoesBest Use | Rock Climbing |
---|---|
Climbing Shoe Type | Aggressive |
Last | Slip-lasted |
Upper | Synthetic lux microsuede |
Lining | Synthetic suede (toe box and heel only) |
Outsole | 4.2 mm TRAX high-friction rubber |
Footwear Closure | Strap |
Can Be Resoled | Yes |
Gender | Men's |
Weight (Pair) | 1 lb. 4.8 oz. |
Climbing Shoe Volume | High |
6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | 5 Mens/6 Womens | 5.5 Mens/6.5 Womens | 6 Mens/7 Womens | 6.5 Mens/7.5 Womens | 7 Mens/8 Womens | 7.5 Mens/8.5 Womens | 8 Mens/9 Womens | 8.5 Mens/9.5 Womens | 9 Mens/10 Womens | 9.5 Mens/10.5 Womens | 10 Mens/11 Womens | 10.5 Mens/11.5 Womens | 11 Mens/12 Womens | 11.5 Mens/12.5 Womens | 12 Mens/13 Womens | 12.5 Mens/13.5 Womens | 13 Mens/14 Womens | 13.5 Mens/14.5 Womens | |
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U.S. Men's | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | 5 | 5.5 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 |
U.S. Women's | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | 14.5 | 15 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | 14.5 |
EU | 38 | 39 | 39.5 | 40 | 41 | 41.5 | 42 | 42.5 | 43 | 44 | 44.5 | 45 | 46 | 46.5 | 47 | 48 | 48.5 | 37 | 37.5 | 38 | 39 | 39.5 | 40 | 41 | 41.5 | 42 | 42.5 | 43 | 44 | 44.5 | 45 | 46 | 46.5 | 47 | 48 |
Evolv shoes are not designed to be downsized.
Evolv sizing uses three categories of fit: Max Performance, Performance, and Comfort.
Max Performance : Choose street shoe size. Ultra-snug fit to deliver the maximum possible performance.
Performance : Choose street shoe size and add .5 to 1.0 size. Snug fit for longer sessions.
Comfort : Choose street shoe size and add 1.0 to 1.5 sizes. Comfortable fit for multi-pitch or entry level.
VOLUME
All Evolv climbing shoes come in Low Volume and Medium Volume models.
Low Volume : Designed for a maximum performance fit and lower volume foot shapes.
Medium Volume : Designed for a performance fit and average volume foot shapes.
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I purchased a pair of the shamans in early November of last year and have worn them somewhat regularly since then. They have been great shoes and although breaking them in was a challenge. I have thoroughly enjoyed using then the entire time up until yesterday. As i was putting on my right shoe the middle leather strap snapped off just before the velcro starts. I have inspected all the other straps and they appear to be ok, which leads me to believe that I received a faulty product perhaps? I dont think it was my misuse as all the other straps are still strong. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there anything evolv and provide to help with this?
I know this shoe isn't getting on all the 'Best shoes of year' lists, but everyone needs to try a pair. Why? because the 'Love Bump' feature is a seriously underrated feature that I have only ever found in this make and model of shoe. This is my 3rd pair of Shamans. The Shamans have always fit me like a sock and has been the most versatile 'do anything' shoe my feet have experienced in my 10 years of climbing. My feet don't slip inside the shoe. And even on a tight fit, the high knuckle box keeps it plenty comfortable. Whether it's on sharp overhanging boulders, thin slab, or day long multi pitches climbs - I'd wear these things anywhere.
Been buying and climbing in Evolv Shamans since the OG blue/orange color palette/design, and the newer gold/black keeps the same performance. Fits wider toeboxes fantastically and with three straps, incredibly easy to dial in a snug fit. The TRAX rubber is top tier and in my opinion, both outperforms and outlasts Vibram. A solid all-arounder for both the gym and outdoor sessions, although with the triple straps, not the greatest for some volume toehook problems. I sized exactly to street shoe size for "moderately comfortable" performance fit, although going a half-size up makes it easily wearable for 1-2 hours without having to take off the shoes.
One of my favorite shoes that I’ve used. I’ve found that when I normally get shoes I have to give up SOMETHING, either toe-hooking- heel hooking, smearing, bearing down on chips, or some combination of those things. Of course smearing isn’t COMFORTABLE in these but I can smear adequately, I can bat hang all day, and my heel hooks are nice and precise. Mine are a half size down from my street shoe so sometimes very sharp and small toe chips hurt my foot too bad to continue in, but this happens in very rare, extreme situations and usually I can push all of my weight through smaller holds. These are 4.5/5 closer to 5 than 4 star shoes.
This has become my favorite climbing shoe. I started with entry level Sportivas, then went to their higher end Kataki, then tried Scarpa Instinct, and now Evolv Shaman. The Sportivas were both easier to break in and good shoes. The Scarpa Instict is an excellent shoe but it kills my feet and had to stop using them. The Evolv and my feet get along really well. Climbing with them is excellent. Top rope and lead climbing, indoors. They're great on overhangs, caves, and pretty much anything I climb. I don't have to test a foot hold. I plant my foot and go. I trust them that much and they seldom fail or slip. I'm clmbing 10s and 11s and they can handle that no problem. My feet are long, flat footed, and longer toe next to big toe. It makes some shoes really painful. Not bad at all with these. The heel cup fits great on a narrower foot. Love the bump in the front for my toes. Since I have a narrow foot the straps ended up being longer than I like and were too close to interfering with climbing. I cut the straps a bit shorter and glued the ends so they wouldn't frey. This has worked well. I'm going on over a year in them climbing about 5 hours/week. They show little wear and tear.
The shoe is stiffer than I expected in the toe and heel, but that makes it really useful and effective when on small edges and overhanging terrain. I dislike them for volumes or when smearing is required. I got a softer shoe from a competitor and prefer it for more general climbing, but if I’m working on hard overhanging projects and need to use my toes like talons, I pick these up immediately. I spend most of my time indoors climbing.
This shoe has the perfect blend of comfort and aggression. It's a versatile shoe that you feel just as comfortable bouldering, gym climbing, and sport climbing in. You do have to give it a chance to break in, but after that, they are great to wear all day. I'm a lady with short, medium-width feet, a narrow heel, and a longer second toe, and I found women's and LV shoes weren't as versatile as these shoes.
The shoe is perfect for me. I have a weird big toe and this shoe just fits me perfectly. The heel cup on this shoe is tiny compared to other popular names and that's just what I need. If you're looking for a pair with medium to wide feet with a small heel cup. Look no further. The shoe isn't as precise as lasportiva solution, but maybe it's just me needing to work more on my footwork!?
Breaking these in wasn’t particularly comfortable but after a few sessions these fit like a glove and I have no pain wearing them. I wear a 10.5 and half sized up (per the evolv reps recommendation) and I’m glad I did. Keeps me locked in on footholds and they smear pretty well too. Plenty of rubber so these should last me a while. Great shoe if you want something aggressive and sturdy. Not the most sensitive under your toes but that’s kinda what I wanted, the rubber is not super soft so you feel comfortable on smaller footholds. Love these, I recommend them to anyone who’s had experience in intermediate level climbing shoes, otherwise if you’re getting into the sport you might want to consider something a little less aggressive.
I know that shoe fit is pretty personal…I have a difficult time changing climbing shoes for that very reason. But after a recommendation by my climbing buddy I’m now on my 3rd pair of the Shaman. New style doesn’t vary much from the orange/blue (besides the tongue padding which I don’t miss). I love that I can get high performance/aggressive bouldering without the painful drops to the ground. (After break in period of course). Very happy with these shoes…except the stink. Stinkiest climbing shoe I’ve owned…even the ones that never saw the outdoors stink.