How to Choose Rock Climbing Shoes

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The Scarpa Vapor V rock shoes offer the traction and fit you need for all-day climbs, and their hook-and-loop fit system makes it convenient to throw on your shoes and just go climbing.
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View all Scarpa Men's Climbing Shoes| Best Use | Rock Climbing |
|---|---|
| Climbing Shoe Type | Aggressive |
| Last | Slip-lasted |
| Upper | Suede leather/Lorica synthetic leather |
| Lining | No |
| Outsole | Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber |
| Footwear Closure | Strap |
| Can Be Resoled | Yes |
| Gender | Men's |
| Weight (Pair) | 1 lb. 2.2 oz. |
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awesome. a fine balance between comfort and performance, these are my-go shoes for everything except thin bouldering. i have a wide fore foot and these fit far better than my (previous) favorites the Miura VS. I wear an 8.5/9 in street shoes, a 41 in Miura VSs but a 42.5 in these. my only complaint is the heel, after all this time, is still fairly uncomfortable on long routes. they stretch a bit over time and lose their down-turn, but still edge fairly well. not for projecting harder stuff, but easily my favorite and the most versatile out of the 5 or 6 pairs that i own. Miura VS 40.5/41 (aggressive/comfort fits) Testarossas 41 5.10 Mocasyms 9 Vapors 42.5 curious to see how the re-designed 2015 model will compare to these.
This is a great shoe! The best fit I have found yet. I was able to fit them very tight without being uncomfortable. Lasportivas (miuras/solutions) crush my pinky toe when fit tight but the toebox profile in the Vapor V's is a prefect shape for me. They also dont seem to strech much. They soften up a bit and form to the top of your toes but dont get sloppy. After climbing in them for a couple months they look like they should hold up well. Also only REI's Vapor V's have a XSEdge sole. Every where else I have looked its the XSGrip2, including Scarpas own website. Thats not a negative, just something to note if your looking for a specific sole.
The shoe itself is pretty solid and I really like Scarpa as a brand. I have had mine for about five months and have really enjoyed them but they aren't as great as I had hoped for. I climb 5ish days a week and for probably 3/5 months I have had them it has been almost completely outside. The rubber around the toes has started to peel back a little bit and they no longer appear at all aggressive. Despite the slightly issues these are great shoes and very comfortable. This is a nice all day shoe but if you are looking for a shoe to push your limits with, this might not be it.
I was climbing in La Sportiva mythos and looking for a more aggressive shoe. I shopped around, demoed a bunch of La Sportiva shoes, tried on a bunch of 5.10s and nothing really fit. Either the heels were too constricting, the toes were too narrow, or the tip of the shoe had so much rubber that I couldn't feel where my feet were. When I found the Vapors, I fell in love. My feet didn't fit into the women's model, but the men's fit like a glove! They're just downturned enough to be aggressive on trickier terrain, but not so downturned that I can't wear them on a sustained climb. Plus, the colors are pretty sweet.
The Vapor V’s are my go to comfort shoe from Scarpa. They fill a spot in my mind similar to the Moccasym, but the Vapors have a more adjustable fit due to the Velcro. Additionally, the Vapors have a very slight downturn and asymmetric shape which allows for greater precision than most session shoes. I can do the majority of my projects in these only to run up the hill to jump on something else without taking them off. Additionally, these are the shoes that I choose for endurance laps in the gym. They take a phenomenal beating before needing to be replaced or resoled.
I've been a La Sportiva Katana fanatic for years, but I decided to give something new a try this off-season. So far, I've been impressed with the Scarpa Vapor V's. I have fairly narrow feet, so I was surprised that a non-La Sportiva brand fit me as well as these do. They don't stretch much; they DO conform/mold to your feet like most shoes, but not as much as the Katanas. As another reviewer pointed out, at REI these come with the XS Edge rubber, instead of the XS Grip2 like everywhere else. As far as I can gather, XS Edge is a bit more durable and stiffer – good for edging, but not so much for smeering or "feeling" the rock. Still, with my Katanas that had XS Grip2, I would burn through the rubber within 4-5 months pretty easily every time. If I don't have to resole these as often, I think the trade-off is worth it.
These shoes fit really well, are easy to get on and off and are suber sticky. I have no trouble holing smears, heal or toe hooks. They are perfect for indoor bouldering. My only complaint is that since the rubber is so sticky, it is also bery soft and seems to be wearging quickly.
So I have been climbing in the vapor lace up as my go to shoe for vertical to somewhat steep climbs for a solid year. Rei stopped holding the lace up version so I was forced to try these out. The best part about the lace up is that you can adjust the laces to a perfect fit. These two velcro straps on the v's just dont qualify as that great of a shoe. Although I have to say the v's are more cozy, than the lace. If you just starting to get serious about climbing these may be a good fit for you. I think scarpa is a bit wider in size than la sportiva in the toe box. I blew out my last pair of lace ups and wish I would have had them repaired sooner. I will be returning my v's this weekend to go check out the Scarpa Boostic, or maybe it is time to move on the the muira? Only time will tell.
With a few days up on a crag they started to feel the way I understand a climbing shoe should. I'm fairly new to the whole climbing gig, but these shoes seem comfortable and I can climb for about 30 minutes without having a desire to take them off... Only climbed 4 days in them so I'm still stretching them out...
I purchased this pair to replace a previous pair of Scarp as that I had worn out. I tend to go gym climbing 2-3 times a week so I wear through shoes pretty quickly. I am one of those finicky individuals who has to have gear that looks good and is very functional as well. This pair immediately caught my eye due to it's astetics. Before settling on it I tried every other pair of climbing shoes that REI had to offer which was about 6 different shoes at that time. After my first trip to the gym I noticed that the toe room did not fit my feet quite right. The toe room seemed too spacious and yet at the same time put pressure on one side of my big toe. As I proceeded with climbing my big toe became sore and I also noticed that the extra width in the toe room caused the front of the shoe to move more than normal and it was hard to get good purchase. I thought that the shoes might preform better after they were broken in but I have now been using them for a while and yet they are still quite uncomfortable.