How to Choose Belay Devices

This product is not available. Good news: we have a newer version.
The new Black Diamond ATC-XP belay device offers the same great hold and stopping power as the original version, only it's now 30% lighter.
Shop newer versionImported.
View all Black Diamond Belay and Rappel Devices| Best Use | Climbing |
|---|---|
| Assisted Braking | No |
| Suitable for Belaying | Yes |
| Suitable for Rappelling | Yes |
| Fits Rope Sizes | 7.7mm - 11mm, single/double |
| Weight | 64 grams |
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I was hesitant at first to try the model with the "friction area" and with no reviews I wasn't sure if I wanted to switch. But I love this ATC. It works great and you can use the smooth side if you decide you don't want the extra friction. Don't hesitate go get it!
I've used this belay device for well over 100 climbs and have yet to have any problems with it or any signs of wear. The ridges are a nice feature of these devices versus the slightly cheaper Black Diamond ATC as it makes belaying those who are much heavier than myself a lot easier. I have about a 50 pound positive differential between my normal climbing partner and I've never had any trouble lowering or holding my partner up, and she is in the 100-110 lb. range. I've only used this device on indoor top roping and cannot attest to it's durability or performance outdoors or in any other scenario. For the price, it's a fantastic indoor ATC and I've thoroughly enjoyed using it. Can't beat the performance for the price.
The extra few bucks this one costs over the regular ATC are so very worth it. This one really helps when belaying someone that weighs 150+ lbs or when they're taking a break on the rope. When I'm belaying my 100 lb niece I use the side without teeth otherwise I practically have to pull her down.
Bought this in a store, and I wish this ATC belay device came in more color choices, but overall, I'm happy with my device. The ridges give me a little bit more confidence as a belayer since I weigh less than 110 lbs and I feel more in control lowering my climbing partner. I've only climbed indoors with this guy and most gyms that I go to have their own belay device (usually grigris) already hooked onto each route, but I'm still glad I have this device and would trust my life (and my climbing partner's life) with it!
Have been using this belay device for a year now at least once a week at an indoor climbing gym. Solid piece and definitely worth the extra money over the ATC. The grooves are a nice touch and allow for more control while belaying versus the ATC which I had started on before purchasing my own equipment. The one downside to the ATC-XP is that when lowering lighter climbers, maybe 100lbs or less you do have to feed the rope or angle it up out of the grooves to effectively lower.
Nice belay device that has added safety compared to the other ones without the ridges for gription.
This is great for belaying people of all sizes in rock gyms, and at a fair price point between the regular tube style and the guide. However, I do not recommend this model. For only ten dollars more you can have a belay device that does 99 percent of what a gri gri can do for 1/3 of the price.
Decent device but something to consider... Can be a pain with a light climber. I used this regularly to belay a buddy in the 100-110lb range and I practically had to push rope in the device to lower him down.
Not that there's much to mess up on an ATC, but this piece is fantastic. It's simple, lasts forever, and can take a beating. At a cheap price, this is a great tool for safe belaying.
Have been using several of these belay devices for about a year. Great design at a reasonable price.