How to Choose Belay Devices

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The Black Diamond ATC-XP belay device features high-friction grooves that increase hold and stopping power while you're belaying.
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View all Black Diamond Belay and Rappel Devices| Best Use | Climbing |
|---|---|
| Suitable for Belaying | Yes |
| Suitable for Rappelling | Yes |
| Fits Rope Sizes | 7.7mm - 11mm, single/double |
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I have used figure eights, GriGris, and carabiners to belay/repel and this is my favorite. I am not saying that those others will not work or that they are somehow inferior to this style. This ATC belays smooth and repels well (while using an autoblock for extra safety). I have tested it in my backyard with 8mm accessory cord and it still repelled fine. I did have to apply a little more pressure with the smaller cord but it works flawlessly on larger rope. I have had great results with 10.1mm-11mm ropes. The teeth seem to work as designed, with the same size rope the simple 2 rope ATC required a little more force to belay/repel but a dynamic belay is not a bad thing.
This product is a must have for either the recreational or avid climber. It works well for all styles of climbing and seconds as a rappel device. I recommend the ATC to everyone... Why would you buy a GriGri2 for nearly a $100 when this offers the same safety in a smaller package, that is also easier to use. Thanks Black Diamond!
This is an awesome ATC. Same one they use at Stone Summit Climbing in Atlanta. The teeth are great. I belay my friend who has about 100 pounds on me and the teeth help me lock the rope down tight when he needs a break on those tough climbs. He doesn't move an inch on the wall, and they help me control his descent as well.
This ATC works well and is easy to use. The teeth grip well, even on smaller ropes and it feeds well, even on thicker ropes. Never had a problem with it and would strongly recommend it, especially as a first ATC.