How to Choose Climbing Harnesses

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A great pick for climbing on both sunny days and snowy ones, the women's Edelrid Autana harness serves up comfy fit, minimal packing size and easy on-off—even when wearing skis or crampons.
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View all Edelrid Women's Climbing Harnesses| Best Use | Climbing |
|---|---|
| Padded Waist | Yes |
| Belay Loop | Yes |
| Padded Leg Loops | Yes |
| Adjustable Leg Loops | Yes |
| Droppable Leg Loops | Yes |
| Gender | Women's |
| Sustainability | Product meets the bluesign® criteria |
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I really like my Atuna harness. I've been using it for about 6 months, climbing in the gym and at the crag about once a week each. I find it comfortable, lightweight, and very adjustable, which I appreciate as with almost all the other harnesses I tried on, my thighs tend to be too big for the harnesses that fit my waist. I do have a lower waist, so the slightly shorter rise works for me, but might not for people with longer torsos. I will agree that the gear loops are very small, which is annoying for trad. Also, I was between sizes and got the XS, which was a mistake because the XS is missing the slightly larger back loop which probably helps compensate for the smaller side loops.
This is the perfect harness for a petite woman. I was having difficulty finding something that fit correctly in my waste but I tried this on and it was perfect. Very comfortable for any climbing and lightweight. I don’t love the small gear loops compared to the petzl harness I started with but the fit is definitely worth the sacrifice.
I wanted to love this harness, because my Edelrid Solaris has been so great! And, almost everything about the Autana is stellar except one absolutely critical piece- the gear loops. They are so small that it makes the harness unusable. Unless you are using this harness for the gym (or maybe sport climbing), it's time to look elsewhere (like the Solaris!). I wish the ice clipper attachments overlapped the gear loops (like on the Petzl harnesses), because I think that would make both gear loops a usable size. As it stands, I wouldn't recommend this harness at all outside of indoor climbing.
The gear loops on this harness are so small that they are essentially unusable. The miniature loops seem like they are made for a child, or as a laughable decoration. I bought this harness for trad climbing, and I can barely even use it for sport climbing. The gear loops are so small and tightly appressed to my body while the harness is on, that it is difficult to even get one quickdraw on and off, let alone an entire rack of draws. Forget about using this harness for a double rack of cams and slings! It offends me to think a company would make this as an adult "woman's" harness. I honestly could have believed somebody was pranking me when it came in the mail. Get out of the 1960's, Edelrid. Women climb and need gear loops that are not there for decoration.
I've been using the Edelrid Jayne harness for the past 2 years and loved it so tried to go with the same brand. Bought the Edelrid Autana to replace it, and was hopeful that would be just as good but with an extra gear loop and was disappointed. The gear loops are TINY and the 5th gear loop is exceptionally small, and overlaps so much with the other rear gear loops that it is just cluttered and would never hold as much as another harness with the standard 4 loops. I'm sure this harness is fine to use for sport or gym climbing, but would not meet my needs for carrying a trad rack, anchor equipment, etc. outside on multi-pitch. Also, the Jayne harness has a waist belt that swivels, so your harness will always be centered on your body if you were to fluctuate in size but the Autana waist belt is fixed in place. Not a big deal, but is nice to have. That being said, Autana was lighter, sleeker and packs better than the Jayne and I'm sure would prove just as durable. Just not ideal for my needs.
I work at an indoor climbing tower as a belay and setter, and after two months this harness has already shown its red warning threads! I do not take hard falls when I climb, so it may be a manufacturing defect.
This harness is pretty comfortable so far. I like how adjustable the leg loops are, and I also appreciate they aren’t as bulky as my previous harness leg loops. I have a smaller waist and bigger legs, so I’ve struggled to find a harness that fits me well. So far, the autana is a good fit for me.
I bought this harness because hanging in it was so comfortable & it seemed light weight for summer. But the gear loops are awful! So hard to get draws off and on when climbing! So irritated I kept this thing 😡 it’ll be a gym harness only.
This harness is the second Edelrid I have owned. It is very light and comfy for a whole day of climbing. My only complaint is that the gear loops are further back and slightly smaller than I would like.
This harness seems well made and comfortable, but the tiny, tiny gear loops are a dealbreaker for me. Back it goes.