How to Choose Rock Climbing Shoes

25 years later, the Mythos climbing shoe design still delivers amazing versatility and performance. This La Sportiva update uses recycled materials to minimize environmental impact.
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Imported.
View all La Sportiva Men's Climbing ShoesBest Use | Rock Climbing |
---|---|
Climbing Shoe Type | Neutral |
Last | Slip-lasted |
Upper | Leather |
Lining | Unlined |
Outsole | 4 mm FriXion ECO rubber |
Footwear Closure | Lace-up |
Can Be Resoled | Yes |
Gender | Men's |
Weight (Pair) | 1 lb. 0.4 oz. |
Sustainability | Contains recycled materials From a Climate Neutral Certified brand |
34 EU | 35.5 EU | 36.5 EU | 37 EU | 37.5 EU | 38 EU | 38.5 EU | 39 EU | 39.5 EU | 40 EU | 40.5 EU | 41 EU | 41.5 EU | 42 EU | 42.5 EU | 43 EU | 43.5 EU | 44 EU | 44.5 EU | 45 EU | 45.5 EU | 46 EU | 46.5 EU | 47 EU | 47.5 EU | 48 EU | 48.5 EU | 49 EU | 49.5 EU | 50 EU | |
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U.S. Men's | 2.5+ | 4 | 4.5+ | 5 | 5.5 | 6 | 6.5 | 6.5+ | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 8.5+ | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 10.5+ | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 12.5+ | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | 14.5 | 15 | 15.5 | 16 |
U.S. Women's | 3.5 | 5 | 5.5+ | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 7.5+ | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 9.5+ | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 11.5+ | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 13.5+ | 14 | 14.5 | 15 | 15.5 | 16 | 16.5 | |
EU | 34 | 35.5 | 36.5 | 37 | 37.5 | 38 | 38.5 | 39 | 39.5 | 40 | 40.5 | 41 | 41.5 | 42 | 42.5 | 43 | 43.5 | 44 | 44.5 | 45 | 45.5 | 46 | 46.5 | 47 | 47.5 | 48 | 48.5 | 49 | 49.5 | 50 |
Mondo | 24 | 24.5 | 25 | 25.5 | 26 | 26.5 | 27 | 27.5 | 28 | 28.5 | 29 | 29.5 | 30 | 30.5 | 31 |
For boots: Add one half size to your street shoe size. You should be able to slip one finger behind your heel when you are standing up with the boot unlaced and your toes touching the front. If the boot is too short, your toes will get smashed walking downhill. Too long and your heel will slide up and down and give you blisters.
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I have owned 4 pairs of these shoes. The first 2 pairs were the were solid durable trad shoes that lasted for at least 2 years. The new eco version is bulkier, less sticky and distinctly less durable. These were my main moderate trad/crack climbing shoes. On my first eco pair the laces had to be replaced after 2 months of 1-2 days of climbing and the edge had stared to split on the front of the shoes... It happened again with my most recent eco pair. Such a shame for a tried and true design that is designed to be durable and comfortable to fall apart within months. Do better la sportiva.
I climbed with the non-eco Mythos shoes for about a year and abused the heck out of them until I blew out one of the toes a week before I had a big trip planned to J-Tree. I was worried about breaking them in because the original shoes were kind of a pain for the first week or so but the new Mythos Eco break in must faster than than expected. After a week in the gym and a solid week at J-Tree, I decided I loved these shoes so much I bought a second pair so I always have a backup. Highly Recommend! IMPORTANT!!! You still have to go down a good couple sizes (I'm US 10.5, 45 EU but I wear size 42 for the Mythos)
This shoe is practically a carbon copy of the regular Mythos, a shoe with a multi-decade history that has been lauded and reviewed many times over, so I won't go into detail as to all the great aspects of this shoe. Compared to the regular model have found this shoe to be identical in every aspect but one: The outsole. The eco rubber performs more like the La Sportiva friXion RS than the Vibram XS Edge rubber used in the regular model. While it may be more an issue of personal preference, I prefer the Vibram rubber, finding it slightly more versatile (which is why you generally find friXion used in lower-end models and Vibram in higher end). That said, if I had to choose again, I would go with the Eco model as I think in the long run such production methods are the future, and supporting such efforts is the right thing to do. In any case, one can always resole with the rubber you prefer.
This was my second shoe after climbing for 6 months. I started with the black diamond momentum, and I loved the swap. I started having problems keeping on a small edge with the flexible sole of the black diamond. These shoes have a fantastically stiff sole, so you can really feel supported on a small chip. I have had them for about 4 months, and they are holding up well. I wear a size 10.5 us men’s shoe, and I went down to a size 8. It's nice and tight, but not painful. My only problem is after 4 months, the lace broke. Not a huge deal, but I am going to have to replace the whole shoe. Overall, I am having an easier time climbing 5.11s in these.
I am compelled to emphasize that with the flourishing of all the asymmetrical downturned shoes for steep sport climbing, La Sportiva has steadfastly continued to produce this marvelous shoe that, as far as myself and many other traditional climbers are concerned, is simply the best shoe available for vertical to less than vertical climbing and crack climbing-most particularly on granite. For sensitivity, precision, moldable fit and performance in thin cracks, this is the shoe you want on your foot. Note: I usually wear a 41.5 in other climbing shoes, but with the Mythos stretch-to-perfect fit, I have been buying this shoe for 25 years in a size 40 and just put up with a couple weeks of the shoe being a little too tight before it stretches to the perfect size.
I haven’t tried many other climbing shoes but the fact that you can adjust the fit around your whole foot (from around the heel, down to the toe, and up to the ankle) with the laces is pure genius! I’m a stickler for adjustable footwear from running shoes, hiking boots, and especially dual boa snowboard boots for that perfect fit. The mythos were very tight at the beginning but after breaking them in a couple sessions the shoe had expanded a little. After one of my sessions (while the shoe was warm) I loosened the laces and pulled the slack out from my heel, re-snug my toe and laced it up like a glove on my foot. It’s been a perfect fit ever since! Plus the mythos eco is made of 95% recycled material. Can’t go wrong
Been using the mythos for over 9 years. These are just as good if not better than the originals so far. Solid shoes. Climb on
Disregard the post below insinuating REI is offering some "rogue" model of this shoe. It's the pictures from OTHER VENDORS that are inaccurate. These shoes work for a wide range of skillsets, from beginners through multi-pitch trad climbers. Indeed, I would recommend them over Tarantulaces for newbies. Dinged them one star ONLY to alert buyers they DO stretch, so find a snug size THEN go down at least 1/2 size to compensate for stretch. Also, disregard posts insinuating they wear out fast; unless you too beat the beejeezus out of your shoes; in which case ANY shoe will wear out fast. About the ONLY thing this unique shoe can't do is micro-edge; but if you are doing 5.13, you wouldn't be wearing this shoe anyway.
Way better fit and stickier than the Tarantulace. Soles took a few pitches to scuff up to proper stickiness, but are now great. Not great for pointing toes, but great for fitting in small places, and good edging. Bought a 44 when I normally wear a 11.5 or 46 in a street or cycling or hiking shoe.
These shoes have a terrible build quality. They are very comfortable off the shelf, and nice for trad climbing, but the rubber in the toes wears out very fast. I've had several pairs and all have worn out quickly (6months), but the most recent pair only lasted for two months of mostly indoor use in the 1-2 times/week frequency range before they developed large holes. When I contacted the La Sportiva warranty department, they informed me that this was normal wear and tear and they would not do anything about the issue. I have been climbing for 15 years and owned many pairs of climbing shoes that I have used in the same way. A two month lifespan is unacceptable. La Sportiva's build quality of this classic shoe has declined and they do not stand behind their product. These are nice if you can afford to replace them every 15 climbing sessions or so, otherwise look elsewhere.