How to Choose Belay Devices

Get geared up for climbing with the updated Black Diamond Big Air XP Belay Device Package. It includes an ATC-XP belay/rappel device and a RockLock screwgate carabiner.
Imported.
View all Black Diamond Belay and Rappel DevicesBest Use | Climbing |
---|---|
Assisted Braking | No |
Suitable for Belaying | Yes |
Suitable for Rappelling | Yes |
Fits Rope Sizes | 7.7 mm - 11 mm, single/double |
Weight | 133 grams |
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I bought this package instead of a belay and a beaner separate because it was a little cheaper. I love the teeth on the belay and like that it very easily guides the rope. It's very light and I hardly feel it while its on my harness walking around. I've been using it for a few weeks now and have no issues so far!
Black Diamond is a reliable brand I will also use and trust. This is my first personal ATC, but I have used these devices for about 4 years now with my climbing experience. The teeth help to maintain control of the belay without causing too much friction. The carabiner is strong and reliable. I am incredibly satisfied with my purchase and can't wait to get outdoors with it!
Being a bit of a gear junkie, I got one more ATC (now I have a total of 7 different rapel/belay pieces of equipment). I love the ATC's because of their ease of use and how they don't twist ropes like some other devices. I also prefer screw gates instead of twist gates (mainly cuz I've been doing this for almost 30 years and old habits done die easy). the carabiner it cam with is a great size for attachment to the harness. I love Black Diamond's gear and have yet to be disappointed with what they have.
Got this for Christmas, but I wouldn't have bought it for myself. 1. The carabiner likes to rotate, which is weird and a little scary. When I'm lead belaying, 90% of the time when I look down at it, it's rotated itself sideways and is cross-loaded right next to the gate. I would expect a carabiner designed to work with an ATC to self-correct in this situation and not be stable sideways, but it is. I got a Gridlock to replace it. 2. The ATC-XP works fine for belaying from the ground, but the ATC-Guide is only a little more money and can be used in more situations, so why does the ATC-XP even exist? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
This is a great combination for the money. The ATC-XP can be used in high friction mode when you are belaying a heavier person or in low friction mode when belaying someone really light. The mini perabiner is a good match to the ATC-XP. It is a little smaller and lighter than most of my locking carabiners but it works great for this application and is easy to manipulate with one hand as you are setting up.
As a brand new climber, I used my Big Air XP last weekend to belay for the first time, and I couldn’t have asked for a better quality or easy to use product. Save yourself a few bucks, get the package with the locking carabiner. I’m overall very pleased with this, and can’t wait to order my next BD product!
This belay device is a must-have, timeless classic for new climbers and weathered climbers alike. Belay on top rope or lead, use it to rappel.
Been using these for 2 weeks, learned how to belay with it. It's simple, easy to use, and reliable. What else can one say.
It was good to save a few bucks by getting both pieces of gear packaged together. The extra friction side of the ATC is a nice addition when belaying. I've had the carabiner get locked up in the locked position a few times. While inconvenient for an extra few seconds, the carabiner performs and is still safe.
I got this in January. By June it had worn to the point it had a sharp edge. I climb about 3 days a week and it seemed a bit excessive. Other than that it works fantastic for belay and rappelling.