How to Choose Climbing Harnesses

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The Edelrid Jay Climbing Harness for men is a real all-arounder. Spend the summer cragging with friends, and then take on ski mountaineering or ice climbing when the snow piles up.
Shop newer version| Best Use | Climbing |
|---|---|
| Padded Waist | Yes |
| Gear Loops | 4 Loops |
| Belay Loop | Yes |
| Padded Leg Loops | Yes |
| Adjustable Leg Loops | Yes |
| Droppable Leg Loops | Yes |
| Gender | Men's |
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So this was my first harness and 3 years later it is still my only harness. I've taken this up backcountry routes, to crags across the country, on countless multipitch and single pitch climbs. It gracefully handles the bulk and weight of a full double rack (including shoes, layers, and water). It barely shows any wear, despite more chimneys and offwidths than I can remember. I'm a gear junkie and I can't even convince myself to buy another harness.
I have found the harness very comfortable. However, the abrasion protector (the rubber piece reinforcing the leg loop connection to the main tie-in loop) is designed to fail. One of its two little rubber loops snapped when I took a light fall. These are the loops at the bottom of the rubber protector that are sewn to the harness to keep the rubber piece in place. The rubber piece also tends to squeak on the rope when falling or hanging, which can be a bit disconcerting, in addition to the weak-looking main buckle design. The harness also tends to widen substantially with use, so better get a smaller size.
Adjusts well to different sizes, fell secure when on repel.
I have done just a little bit of indoor climbing and one outdoor class in my new harness but so far it is very comfortable. I am new to the sport and tried on just about every harness in REI and hung in the harness for a few minutes in each. The Jay II was the most comfy one. The momentum was very close to this, but my leg to waist ratio on the BD momentum wasn't the best fit. The Jay seems to be much more adjustable. The only things that I don't like about it are the lack of quick adjust leg straps like the momentum, the color is just not my thing (but pretty much a non-issue), and the gear loops seem a little "floppy" compared to others I tried on.
I've owned this for about 18 months. I've taken it gym climbing, a little bit of outdoor climbing, zip-lining, and a bunch of good old rappelling. It's extremely comfortable, even when I'm hanging in it for 10 or 15 minutes looking for a stage of a geocache on a cliff somewhere. When I need a new one, I'll replace it with the same.
This harness is amazing. Extremely adjustable, w/ adjustable leg loops and a rotating hip belt. It's light AND comfortable. I have hung in it for almost an hour straight and I barely felt it. Like any harness this will just not fit some people, but for those it does fit look no further!
I have used this harness for everything from belaying to alpine mountaineering. Pros... Easy adjusting leg and waist, centering belay loop. 4 ridged gear loops. Drop able leg loops for putting on with skis, snowshoes, or crampons on. I like the adjustment ability, from short pants to insulated pants. Extremely comfortable. Cons... Color is not very masculine, not issue for though.
Edelrid is making a comparable harness in comparison to any major brand like BD, Petzl, Mammut. The harness performance exactly as it should and has some cool spiffed up colors. I think all in all it’s slightly bulkier than some of the other sport harnesses our there certainly not noticeable while wearing. Great harness all in all.
I just got this today and it seems really nice. The construction is super good quality and it just looks and feels bomber. I haven't actually climbed in it yet but trying it out at home it was pretty comfortable and allowed total range of movement so that's a good start. Some nice features are the plastic protector on the leg loop attachment point which will really help the belay loop last and avoid fraying. The buckles also don't need to be doublebacked this threw me for about an hour as I tried to figure out how to doubleback them until I finally looked it up online. If you climb at a gym you might have to explain it to them so they don't freak out about safety I don't know how they'll be at my gym so we'll see. The gear loops are solid I would prefer them to have a plastic protector on them but it's not a deal breaker. I might retrofit something onto them if I really feel like it. Placement is good too not too far forward so that your rack is on the way and not too far back so reaching is awkward. One thing I'll point out though is that the medium size actually fits a 27-37 inch waist and the leg loops fit 19-23 inches. So that makes it a much better deal than the small unless you're super scrawny (which isn't a bad thing). I ended up getting it for $20 off so it was a really good deal I think it should be a good harness it's not the lightest but I don't really worry too much about weight so that's not a huge factor for me.
We purchased this harness for our kids to share at the climbing gym. Kids are ages 8-14, one boy and two girls. They have shared that the harness is comfortable and a great all around harness!