How to Choose Rainwear

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Ideal for climbing and mountaineering, the Arc'teryx Alpha SV jacket features rugged GORE-TEX® Pro fabric that is extremely waterproof and abrasion resistant for extreme mountain conditions.
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View the Arc'teryx Alpha Product LineView all Arc'teryx Men's Multi-Sport Rain Jackets| Best Use | Climbing Backcountry Skiing Mountaineering |
|---|---|
| Fabric | Nylon |
| Lining Fabric | Polyester tricot |
| Windproof | Yes |
| Waterproof | Yes |
| Type of Waterproofing | Gore-Tex Pro 3-layer waterproof breathable laminate |
| Hood | Yes |
| Back Length | Hip-length |
| Gender | Men's |
| Weight | 1 lb. 1 oz. |
| XXS | XS | S | M | L | XL | XXL | XXXL | XS Short | S Short | M Short | L Short | XL Short | XXL Short | S Tall | M Tall | L Tall | XL Tall | XXL Tall | 28 | 30 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 36 | 38 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chest | 33 | 35 | 37 | 40 | 43 | 47 | 51 | 54.5 | 35 | 37 | 40 | 43 | 47 | 51 | 37 | 40 | 43 | 47 | 51 | |||||||
| Sleeve Length | 30 | 31.5 | 32.5 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | |||||||
| Waist | 27 | 29 | 31 | 34 | 37 | 40.5 | 44.5 | 48.5 | 29 | 31 | 34 | 37 | 40.5 | 44.5 | 31 | 34 | 37 | 40.5 | 44.5 | 30 | 32 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 38 | 40 |
| Hip | 32.5 | 34.5 | 36.5 | 39.5 | 42.5 | 46.5 | 50 | 54 | 34.5 | 36.5 | 39.5 | 42.5 | 46.5 | 50 | 36.5 | 39.5 | 42.5 | 46.5 | 50 | 35.5 | 37.5 | 39.5 | 40.5 | 41.5 | 43.5 | 45.5 |
| Inseam | 31 | 31 | 31.5 | 32 | 32.5 | 33 | 33 | 29 | 29.5 | 30 | 30.5 | 31 | 31 | 34.5 | 35 | 35.5 | 36 | 36 | 31.5 | 31.5 | 32 | 32 | 32 | 32.5 | 33 |
Measurements are stated in inches unless otherwise indicated.
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I am using this jacket for almost a year now. Mostly for hiking, backpacking, ski and alpine climbing. It feels very good on my body with enough space for layering (i have an athletic body. It feels indestructible and after a year of usage look as good as new. There are several cons to this jacket: 1. It comes untreated so water stays on the topmost layer, a DWR coating is needed here. 2. There are velcros attached to the inner part of the sleeve where it reaches the palm, it is there for adjusting the sleeve, the material is to sharp and scratches my face and eyes every time i touches it. 3. There are not enough external pockets, a pocket on the sleeve would be nice.
This is by far the best shell on the market. primarily use this for alpine climbing and ice climbing but this would be a great jacket for any winter sport. Very durable, breathable, and practical. I love longer length and no rise inserts that keep the jacket from ridding up your harness (probably the number one selling point for me on this jacket as I have a long torso and hate having a jacket ride up under your harness) I also love the cross chest pockets. Only Con I have and this is more of a personal preference thing is the sizing. I am 5'10" 165lbs and everything Arcteryx I own is size medium however size medium in this jacket was very big(think ski/snowboard baggy). Keep in mind Arcteryx designed the jacket this way so you can fit lots of layers under it but personally I like trim fitting jackets so I went with a size small.
With over 7-8 spots of clear Gore-Tex delamination, (I'd attach the photo if there was an option) Arcteryx says they won't warranty Gore-Tex delaminating. If they're going to charge nearly double for the equivalent product, you'd think they would honor their warranties. Think hard and twice about buying their high-end products. They clearly do not stand behind them.
I love this jacket and its simple design. I purchased this primarily for skiing (it was on sale for a nice price). Although I realize it is primarily designed for ascents, Arc'teryx needs to understand that when you spend $500-$700 on a garment, you plan to use it for more than just its narrowly intended purpose. I wear my Gore-Tex shells spring, winter, and fall. Some hand pockets would have been nice. Is that really too much to ask for a $675 dollar jacket? Would it have really added too much undue weight to an already light-weight garment? C'mon...
I'm a snowboarder/mountain guy so I wanted the best of the best type of jacket that would keep me dry. I read the reviews on this jacket and assumed this jacket was going to be made big for added layering but it's not! I was so excited about the jacket when it arrived. I tore the package apart and put it on. The shoulder area had a lot of room and the arm length was spot on but it seemed the jacket was tapered or tailored to fit snug and tight, not at all what I was looking for. It would appear the makers of this jacket have a different idea of athletic cut. I was a defensive back so my arms and chest are bigger than a distance runner or road bicyclist. My hips have more meat as well for absorbing the shock of a hit. At 6' 210 pounds this jacket is tight by an inch but only near the bottom. If I pull the jacket up to my waist I can zip it up but I no longer enjoy the length of the jacket.
Great barrier to precipitation, easily layered when conditions demand it. And the style should endure so that I can get a good return on investment.
I think there are some misconceptions about the Alpha SV, Gore-Tex fabrics and "waterproof breathable" jackets in general that rely upon a membrane to keep the water from going through. With respect to statements related to the style of this jacket. It is intended as an expedition hardsheel and not generally advertised as being an around town jacket. They do have a model with more user friendly handwarmer pockets, but given that its specifically for wearing with a harness or pack, comfortable handwarmer pockets would not be accessible at all. As for the wetting out of the jacket, or rather of the face fabric itself and the lead up to wet undergarments, jacket or what have you, it could be related to an issue with the DWR. Any jacket will wet out after an extended period of time under prolonged exposure to the rain. Somebody specifically mentions 3-4 hours in the jacket they won in a raffle. When the DWR is depleted and wets out, it will indeed feel like water is getting through due to condensation build up. That said, if water did indeed get through, you should first work with Arcteryx CSR and from there go to Gore themselves, as they have a lifetime warranty on the membrane itself. Same for the first reviewer who said after a year he found his items getting wet. Last point: Related to the above, if you were your jacket regularly, always wash and re-apply your DWR. Use a spray on, not a wash in, as that will prevent the inner fabric layer of a 3L GoreTex jacket from allow water vapour from moving from the inside to the outside. HTH. This is the gold standard in hardshells and unless you need something this bombproof, there are many rain jackets that might serve your purpose and save you money.
I trusted this jacket to keep me dry while on a hiking/camping trip in the rain. In the span of 3-4 hours, it had been completely soaked through. By the time we got to our campsite, my entire midlayer (mont bell thermawrap) was surface-soaked nearly to the point of unusability. Luckily it was a synthetic and kept me moderately warm over a wool baselayer. This was only the 3rd time I've used the Alpha SV, babying it between uses and being sure to clean after every trip if needed. (Note: I won't even wear this in the city to avoid other chemicals from ruining the DWR, like oily puddles being splashed on it). My friends donning trash-bags stayed drier than I was. Luckily, I didn't pay for this jacket (I won it in a raffle). So while I'm not complaining about a free jacket, I would still rather pay $500+ for a jacket that worked than sport a free one that doesn't. All of that said, my other gear was also soaked through, including my Lowa waterproof hiking boots & REI Taku rain pants. I think my expectations were just too high for this jacket, largely driven by the hype surrounding it. So granted, it may have been abnormally wet out there, but the lesson learned is don't expect a proportional level of performance for the price tag. Otherwise, it's very comfy and unrestrictive. A bit baggy, and a tad long in the arms for me (which is fine since you can't stuff your hands in the pockets.) But getting it in the same size as my other gear allowed it to fit over my base & mid layers as well as a down sweater for extra insulation. I like the underarm vents.
I have the Alpha SV for at least 3 years and it has been my to go jacket for everything, winter rock climbing, split boarding, snowboarding, mountaineering, bike commuting on a rainy day, you name it. I pair this one with a small puff jacket (sierra designs gnar lite) and I have the perfect combo for split boarding or anything below 0º C. It feels a little baggy in the shoulders but it worth the superior arm mobility, it also fit a climbing or snowboard helmet perfectly (much better than any other jacket I've tried). For pure snowboarding I would go for a more specific shape, but for split boarding the breathability and armpit ventilation is far superior than the typical snowboard jacket (I have a Burton AK jacket for pure snowboard days or deep pow days because of the powder skirt). In terms of durability, this is INDESTRUCTIBLE, even after 3 years of falling in the snow, rock abrasion from climbing and general wear, it looks like new (except from some oil spots, some stains are imposible to remove in this fabric). I wash this twice a year with gore-tex specific products and it has the same water repellence as the first day.
A great jacket,a perfect deal and a very good price !