Petzl  Reverso Belay Device

This device is great for belaying heavy climbers/climbers that take a lot. The teeth really reduce how much arm strength is needed to support the climber. Unlike a ATC-XP, it wont rip up the rope over time ether. Also excellent for multi pitch climbs (can be attached directly to wall), and can be fliped if the use of the teeth is not warranted. The con of this device is that it can be difficult to pull/feed rope through it. This is not a problem in top rope situations, but I have found it difficult to use for lead belay. Still, a great device to have, and perfect when coupled with a standard ATC

To make the best of this product, you really have to be someone who climbs multi-pitches. I usually have two climbing partners, so to be able to belay two seconds is great. I have the 2005 model, so it doesn't have the added "teeths" I see in the newer 2006 models. This I believe will help with rope stopping. The 2005 was smooth, so I had to apply some force to prevent rope slipping. If you do much indoor or don't climb multi-pitches, I'd just stick to the traditional BD's ATCs unless you can get this cheaper.

I really like the Reverso when using ropes with a diameter larger than 9mm. For twin ropes (8mm to 9mm diameter) I use the Reversino (its little brother). On long multi-pitch climbs it saves you a lot of energy when you attach it to the anchor using the self-locking feature primarily because you do not have to hold on tight to the rope anymore. It also allows you to be more efficient as, with a little practice, you can belay two climbers at the same time. Where the self-locking feature becomes a "must-have" is when you climb with a party of 3. Since the belayer doesn't have to hold on to the rope the entire time, it gives ample time for the first 2 climbers to rerack while the third climber makes his way up to the anchor. I definitely recommend this tool to anyone doing multi-pitch.

The device, unlike most, follows the natural curves of a rope when belaying; making it a smooth pull for the belayer and smooth ride down for the climber. Even on old ropes, this device is noticeably less jumpy than your average one.

I like the reverso over standard belay devices because of how easy it is to break while belaying and how I can use it to belay off of an anchor if needed.

This was my first belay device. What a champ. It can do so many things. I really have not used it to its full potential.