How to Choose Rock Climbing Shoes

Wrapped in NEO Fuse sticky rubber and offering comfortable, downturned performance, the narrow-fit Butora Gomi climbing shoes are ideal for steep sport climbing and bouldering.
Imported.
View all Butora Men's Climbing ShoesBest Use | Rock Climbing |
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Climbing Shoe Type | Aggressive |
Last | Slip-lasted |
Upper | Suede/leather |
Lining | Microfiber |
Outsole | 4 mm Butora NEO Fuse rubber |
Footwear Closure | Strap |
Can Be Resoled | Yes |
Gender | Unisex |
Weight (Pair) | 1 pound |
Climbing Shoe Volume | Low |
5.5 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | |
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U.S. Men's | 5.5 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 14 |
U.S. Women's | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | |||||||
EU | 37.5 | 38 | 39 | 39.5 | 40 | 41 | 41.5 | 42 | 42.5 | 43 | 44 | 44.5 | 45 | 46 | 46.5 | 47 | 48 | 48.5 |
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I joke that these are my cinderella climbing shoes because as soon as I tried them on I knew they were the ones. I tried on every climbing shoe in my size (36/US 6) and these were by far the best. They are an upgrade from my pair of Scarpa Helix and I really like the more aggressive fit. I take them off in between climbs and when belaying to avoid my toes getting super squished. They are great for people with lower tops of their feet but still need something with an arch. I felt like they broke in fairly quickly and are great for smearing, toe and heel hooking. No signs of wear that are too concerning considering that I climb in them 5+ days a week.
These are the greatest climbing shoes of all time. But seriously, they're fantastic for smearing, toe hooking, heel hooking, and have a very sensitive toe. The only thing I don't wear them for is edging because I prefer a stiffer toe box for that. These are my every day gym climbing shoes. I have 3 pairs and each has lasted about 8 months (2-3 hr sessions 3-6 days a week)
The break in period was so short on these, only a few sessions. They’re softer than I expected given how much rubber coverage there is, which was awesome! I wear between a 9.5 and a 10 in women’s street shoes and I bought these in a 9.5 and they fit great. Side note: thank you Butora for making women’s shoes for women with big feet! The only issue is that the heel has a tiny bit of dead space, but that’s likely a me problem since my foot is weird and my heel is verrrry narrow. Heel and toe hooks are still great! Overall, I love these and they were so reasonably priced for aggressive shoes.
This is a great shoe! I love climbing overhangs, and these shoes really allow me to dig my toe in on holds and keep my feet on the wall. I have a very narrow heel, and the slim heel cup on this shoe fits my foot like a glove, making heel hooks feel super secure. It's currently my favorite shoe to climb in!! However, with its softer rubber and aggressive downturn, these shoes are terrible for slab climbing. Every time I try some slab problems in these, they very quickly become too painful. If you have a strong preference for cave climbing like I do, I would definitely recommend these shoes - but I might suggest something else if you're looking for a more versatile, all-day gym shoe.
I bought these about 2 months ago on sale in store and I love them! These are my first pair of Butora shoes, and my favorite climbing shoes I own. Breaking them in wasn’t bad at all, the first few sessions were hard but that’s to be expected. These shoes do run small, I actually got my street shoe size which I never do. Once these are worn out I plan on either re-soling or buying a new pair. I love these way more than my Solutions. I have not tested these outdoors yet (I prefer indoor climbing) but these are great with indoor slab! Which is my favorite lol. Great for smearing and volumes. 10/10 will update with any issues:)
I love the idea of having a comfortable, yet quite aggressive shoe in my arsenal. The break in period was not long at all, maybe about 3-4 sessions at the gym with little to no problems, it has a very comfortable heel, good for heel hooks, and with a lot of rubber on the toe, It’s great for toe hooks. The only thing I don’t like about them is the rubber they use, Neo fuse, it’s not as grippy as I’d like but it gets the job done
I've owned three pairs of these in different sizes for different uses (tight for comps, loose for outdoor). The shoe itself fits me very well and I can handle all sorts of moves with it. In terms of longevity, one pair lasts me about 3 months with heavy use (climbing 6 times a week) before needing a resole. This is to be expected. However, the three pieces of sewn fabric that hold the plastic loop are beginning to break, one by one. Hopefully Butora reinforces the stitching here in future models.
I wear a 7.5/8 in a street shoe and purchased the Gomis in a 7, which fit perfectly. There's no deadspace in the toebox and they fit perfectly in length, with just a gentle curve on toes for precise footwork. They're both comfortable enough to wear between climbs and durable. I use them in the gym and on sandstone, bouldering and leading. The NEO fuse rubber on the toes is perfect for toehooking, which I had difficulty doing in my old Otakis. I have skinny feet with a large arch, so my only complaint is the heel. Like the Solutions (and most LaSportiva shoes), there's a little extra room in the Butora heel, which makes heelhooking and mantling a little less than precise. My climbing parter has the same complaint about their Gomis, too, so they recently switched to the Scarpa Drago. If Butora ever made a low volume shoe with an even skinnier heel, I'd buy them in a heartbeat.
I bought these as backups to my typical bouldering shoes (La Sportiva Solutions) because I wanted something that felt more comfortable to also lead climb in but didn't give up the same performance level. I wouldn't classify these as aggressive shoes, more moderate, but they work great for both bouldering and ropes. MUCH better than other Butora shoes because my heel stays securely in this shoe when heel hooking. The velcro strap is also the perfect length for tightening and isn't too long if you need to overtighten.
I like saving money by getting my shoes resoled. You can get these shoes resoled, but it's not worth it if the buckle holding the strap breaks, which is what happened to me on both shoes after ~6 months. If you DO decide to purchase these shoes, I might recommend using superglue or something to strengthen the 3 pieces of fabric that hold the buckle. Good luck.