How to Choose Carabiners

Made ultralight for light-and-fast missions, the Black Diamond LiteForge screwgate carabiner accommodates clove hitches and is ideal for use with the Link anchor system.
Imported.
View all Black Diamond CarabinersBest Use | Climbing |
---|---|
Carabiner Type | Locking |
Gate Type | Screw-lock |
Gate Open Clearance | 15.25 millimeters |
Strength Major Axis Closed | 24 kilonewtons |
Strength Major Axis Open | 8 kilonewtons |
Strength Minor Axis | 8 kilonewtons |
Dimensions | Unavailable |
Weight | 45 grams |
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Good carabiner. The one thing is that the black one rubs off all the color onto your rope if you use it for a master point.
I have a couple packs of these that I keep in my technical rope rescue gear pack. I use them for my belay devices, for building mechanical advantage systems, even for clipping my K9 to me when we are rapelling down a cliff face or out of a helicopter. It's always great to just have a few of these in your bag, just in case! I wish they came in a better variety of colors because my teammates also love them, so we have to make sure ours are labeled!
This is a very lightweight, but small locking carabiner that is a bit too specialized for me. I purchased one to see how it works and the best use for it, in my honest opinion, is with a webbing or sling style PAS. Do not use it with a rope lanyard or PAS, like the Petzl Adjust line. The spine is too short and the gate is too narrow. It is fine and sufficiently light for an alpine, all-purpose, non-HMS locking carabiner. If I were to put together a separate alpine rack, I would by a good bunch of these.
The surface treatment is very perfect. Like a work of art.
We just purchased a bunch of new gear for our outdoor adventure summer camp, Missoula Outdoor Learning Adventures, including stoppers, cams, rope, ATC's, locking biners, harnesses, etc. As owner, BD is the clear choice for me when I'm putting other people's children (and my own!) on the rock. We've been using BD gear for 20+ years, I've never been disappointed, and I always feel confident sending groups out to climb. With excellent attention to details of safety and functionality, BD earns a 5 star rating from me.
Seems strong, but after a year of use the screwgate got stuck. After 15 minutes of trying to untwist it. i gave up and cut my selfbelay-sling off. Luckily there were some kids fishing nearby, so my belay partner could go borrow a knife and tie to the bottom of the rope so i could cut myself out of the selfbelay. What i take away from this, have a knife/plyers in your climbing bag while outside. This might be an storrage/user error. on my part? i usually store all my carabiners etc in my climbing bag, so there might some dust/chalk inside them. however i have other models from blackdiamond/petzl etc. That are stored in the same bag that are way older i havent had the issue with. i'd upload a photo, but the screwgate is still suck in the mountain, and my phone was on the ground. Might go back and try to unscrew it some day as a challenge, unless somebody strong and handsome have taken it down before then.
This is the standard locker for everything. Well built, will last decades perfect for everything. There’s a lot of lockers on the market. These are built for function, not looking cool, saving micrograms of weight or whatever someone tells you makes the others better. These are for the climber who wants function over fashion. Besides, they’re Black Diamond, so they’re already cool by default.
First the good: it’s light, robust, and big enough to work with gloves. The locker is smooth and should be relatively tolerant of sand and water in use. Overall, excellent functionality. All that said, the finish is a little rough, which could wear ropes and things faster, and the locker has no unlock warning indicator like competitors do. In summary, I’d call it very good but not great.
I have these and the slightly cheaper lockers with blue screw gate. I prefer the other ones. These are a bit more fiddley to deal with as they are quite small and the gate opening is noticeably smaller. Using this one for a 3rd-hand is fine but it's pretty tight for dealing with anchor bolts such as with PAS or making an anchor.
Good carabiner to have extra safety without getting too bulcky or heavy. Ideal to clip straight to bolts like when using those Quads or similar anchors. It is too small to make knots or self anchor over other ropes or rappels. Good to carry your machard Kevlar 5-6mm cord for rapelling. Good stuff!