How to Choose Rock Climbing Shoes

Built for sport climbers and boulderers who demand sensitivity and power, the Scarpa Instinct VS women's climbing shoes have a precise fit, tough synthetic uppers and grippy soles to help you send.
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Imported.
View all Scarpa Women's Climbing ShoesBest Use | Rock Climbing |
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Climbing Shoe Type | Aggressive |
Last | Slip-lasted |
Upper | Synthetic microsuede; strap: leather |
Outsole | Forefoot: 3.5 mm Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber; heel: 2 mm Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber |
Footwear Closure | Strap |
Can Be Resoled | Yes |
Gender | Women's |
Weight (Pair) | 14.2 ounces |
Climbing Shoe Volume | Low |
34 | 34.5 | 35 | 35.5 | 36 | 36.5 | 37 | 37.5 | 38 | 38.5 | 39 | 39.5 | 40 | 40.5 | 41 | 41.5 | 42 EU | |
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U.S. Women's | 3.5 | 4 | 4.5 | 4.5 | 5 | 5.5 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 |
EU | 34 | 34.5 | 35 | 35.5 | 36 | 36.5 | 37 | 37.5 | 38 | 38.5 | 39 | 39.5 | 40 | 40.5 | 41 | 41.5 | 42 |
Mondo | 20 | 21 | 21.5 | 21.5 | 22 | 22.5 | 23 | 23.5 | 24 | 24 | 24.5 | 25 | 25.5 | 26 | 26 | 26.5 | 27 |
All Scarpa non-plastic footwear uses European sizing.
• 1 Euro whole size = 6.6 mm = 0.26 inches
• 1 US whole size = 8.4 mm = 0.33 inches
• The 30 Euro sizes above cover the same size range as 24 US sizes.
• More Euro sizes provide a better, more precise fit for your intended use.
Rock Shoes: Scarpa recommends you downsize 1/2 to 2 full sizes from street shoe size, though downsizing depends on shoe model, intended use and personal preference.
Mountaineering: Scarpa recommends you upsize 1/2 size or more depending on desired fit. Scarpa plastic mountaineering boots are based on the UK sizing scale.
Ski Boots: All Scarpa ski bootsare measured in Mondo sizing. Highlighted (or not) sizes share the same shell size; the liners are lasted for each 1/2 size. Some skiers may want to downsize up to 1 full Mondo size, depending upon personal preference.
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I loved my Vapor V’s, and I ended up loving these Instinct VS’s too. I am a U.S. women’s 6 in street shoe size ( such as Vans, Nike, Under Armour, etc.) and bought these in one full size up, which is a 38.5. This is the exact same size I have the Vapor V’s in. As some others mentioned, the heel area is slightly wider than the Vapor V’s (as you can see in my photo). This didn’t affect me personally, but everyone’s feet are different. I require a wider toe box because I have bunions, so I was worried at first because the toe box felt very stiff and too narrow, but turned out to stretch out enough that it wasn’t a problem. At rest, my toes are curled just the right amount to be able to stick onto the tiniest holds when climbing. For me, there was little to no break-in period. I was able to climb for 2-3 hrs my first time wearing them, and I was impressed that I was able to complete routes with them that I didn’t think I could before. At first, I was wary because they were slightly slippery at first, but that comes with every new pair typically. They started to feel stickier after several climbs.
I bought a pair of these 1.5 years ago. Size 41.5. They were an excellent fit, and I really liked them. I bought a new pair of these 4 months ago, same size. They were too loose for me. The toebox was way too wide and there was a lot of dead space in my shoes. I was so confused about why the shoes felt like a different size with the same size, and scarpa told me that they hand make them, so the size isn’t standardized. I bought a new pair recently: 40.5. They were too tight and it made my ankle hurt. I exchanged them for 41, and the 41 was LOOSER than my first pair of 41.5s. I’m so annoyed with these shoes. They’re a good pair of shoes, but the sizing just didn’t work out for me. The toebox is wide so maybe it would fit someone whose feet were wider. I’m just so confused as to why 40.5 and 41 felt one full size different… it’s so annoying!!! I already returned the 40.5 so I can’t get it back…. and I feel bad returning 41 to get a new 40.5….
Great shoe once you break it in of course. As with the other reviewer I also had to go up a full street shoe size to fit into them and even then its a very snug fit. Other than that these are very responsive shoes.
I originally got turned on to the Scarpa Veloces, but got tired of the toe rubber wearing out too quickly. I spent extra and love these shoes! They fit me like a ballet slipper and have helped me be a more graceful and confident climber. I also have wide feet and they still fit comfortably.
I've had these shoes for nearly a year now, and may attribute the lack of wear and tear to my lower climbing frequency (I climb about once per week during the spring through autumn and take winters off.) But they've still held up remarkably well against outdoor boulders and indoor routes alike. They're fantastic for overhung routes and for when I need something a little more intense. I definitely recommend adding 0.5-1 size to your usual shoe size. I usually wear a 36 in regular shoes, and decided on size 36.5 for these Instincts, but sometimes wonder if I should've gotten size 37 (even though it may have resulted in too much room in the heel, as the heel cup in size 36.5 already holds a little bit of air). My toes ended up slightly stacked on top of each other, but it's not too bad (considering my three middle toes are the same length and most other shoes force those three to stack even worse).
I have small heels, and have struggled for years to find a shoe that actually fits my narrow/small heels. In the past, I have never been able to securely heel hook anything because the heel slides out of even very aggressive shoes. But these shoes changed that completely and I am able to heel hook securely. I know that there are also men who also enjoy the women's version of this shoe because of the smaller heel; honestly if there was a version that had even smaller heels I would definitely buy that but for now these are as perfect as shoes can get for me. I have gone through two pairs already and these are the only shoes I will continue buying. There is one area where my second toe pushes against the top a bit hard and that tends to wear out more quickly, but other than that this is a shoe that I can wear for 3-hour long sessions at the gym and hard projects and never feel like I have to take it off.
Love them. Great rubber but still hugs my narrow feet. Fit small, had to go a half size up from street shoe?
It feels like your feet stick to every chip on the wall. 100% would recommend for the climber moving from the neutral to a moderate style.
I bought thes shoes and loved them from the first session. Aggressive, technical, great fit, broke in nicely. Unfortunately the rubber on the toe cap peeled almost completely off in just a handful of sessions. For reference I had the la sportiva's solutions and muira's for at least 5 months before a resole and the solutions only had a slight peel on the edges of the toe cap after 6-7 months of wear. Not sure if the ones I got were simply defective but for $185 bucks I expect them to hold up a bit longer then a cumulative 10-12 hours of climbing. I was pretty bummed.
I love these shoes! For reference, I wear a women's tennis shoe size of about 7, and I do mostly indoor gym climbing in the US. I normally fit 5.5 in other moderate/aggressive climbing shoes, but this shoe seems to run a 1/2 size small, so the 6's in these fit well. They are a great step up from my LaSportiva Tarantulace shoes (also size 6, but stretched out). The moderate downturn and tighter fit make a huge difference! I also tried on the Skwama, Vapor V, and Miura, but this shoe was the only one that fit my narrow flat feet. This shoe had the least amount of "bunched up" of fabric under the velcro strap, so they hug my flat feet better. This shoe also had the tightest-fitting heel; however, it is still just a tad large (I can squish the sides by about 1/4 inch on each side), but I only notice it being a problem when I try to heel hook on small ledges. These also tend to pull on the achilles (good luck finding a shoe that doesn't!), so I stick a piece of athletic tape over the tendon. Overall, I would highly recommend these shoes. They have a comfortable toe box, good ankle mobility, grippy rubber on the toe for toe hooks (great for crack climbing as well), and stiff rubber along the back of the heel for heel hooks. I have also been able to wear these for 2-3 hours at the gym without having to take them off, although they do take about 30 minutes to break in each time I go to the gym. I have had no issues with the durability of the material after climbing with them for 100+ hours.