Black Diamond ATC-Alpine Guide Belay Device
Designed for the smaller rope diameters of fast-and-light alpine missions, the 73g Black Diamond ATC-Alpine Guide belay device is an ultralight, compact version of the award-winning ATC-Guide.
- Dependably and smoothly handles 6.9-9mm rope diameters in all conditions
- Offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling
- Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes
- Guide mode works with 1 or 2 climbers ascending and descending
- Autoblock release hole accepts small carabiners
Imported.
View the Black Diamond Alpine Product LineView all Black Diamond Belay and Rappel Devices| Best Use | Climbing |
|---|---|
| Assisted Braking | Yes |
| Suitable for Belaying | Yes |
| Suitable for Rappelling | Yes |
| Fits Rope Sizes | 6.9-9 millimeters |
| Weight | 73 grams |
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Just the ticket for skinny ropes!
I routinely use twin/double ropes for certain types of alpine projects requiring a lot of rappelling. I also commonly use a thin single rope for long alpine routes. I found my regular belay / rappel device didn't function as well as I hoped (especially during rappels) so I bought one of these puppies to to see whether it would change anything. The first time I did a lot of multi-pitch rappels on a route I was sold. Unfortunately I managed to drop it the day before yesterday when I was just about to begin a 10 pitch rappel descent. Luckily I had my regular device as a backup but I just ordered a replacement ATC Alpine Guide. Worth the price...
Light and dependable
It is so good to have the reliability and performance of a regular ATC in a version that perfectly works for alpine climbing/mountaineering. This has given me great confidence working thin half and twin ropes. Plus I really like the color. Something to notice though, it is designed for thin rops. Most of the people complaining about it are because they got it without knowing their specification. Knowing the specifications and limits of one’s gear is imperative. Always make sure your belay device matches your rope diameter. In addition, I don’t think ATCs are entry level devices. The reasonable price may suggest other ways. But it is not. See, it does not brake assist. So if the belayer accidentally lets the break side of the rope go or inappropriately hold it during a fall, it can result in a fatality.
Took something already great, made it smaller.
The nice thing about 2024 is that with the proliferation of hyperstatic skinny ropes and even people pushing boundaries with normal dynamic twin and half ropes, there are a plethora of plate style, camming, and assisted braking belay devices to choose from designed specifically for skinny ropes. The nice thing about THIS belay device is it works exactly the same as the full size one, which means you can hand it to a climbing partner who has familiarity with pretty much any one of the normal tube style belay devices and they will be able to operate it effectively without additional training, which means lower (not no risk, just less risk) of mistake. A great solution for people traveling in mixed groups/teams
Light Weight and Great for Smaller Diameter Ropes
Used this device on a canyoneering trip with smaller diameter ropes and it worked like a champ. Higher friction was good for heavier loads. Super lightweight.
Perfect when using smaller diameter ropes
I’ve used this strictly for climbing on ropes smaller than 9mm. I traditionally use an ice line while climbing through terrain in the alpine that is well below my ability but when I like to be tied in or if I bring an 8mm rope strictly for rappelling what I don’t feel comfortable down-climbing. Makes belaying and rappelling feel more secure than my ATC Guide as it really grips those smaller diameter ropes.
This ATC does exactly what it's meant to. I trust my life with it, I trust someone else's life on it. It can take falls and a ton of use with little no showing of use. It's easily identifiable in relation to my larger ATC/belay device. Having this alpine gives me so many more options when it comes to rope diameters, and when you're working with large or small diameters, it's crucial to have the options.
Nice for the half ropes!
Great for my 8.1mm half ropes that want to squirm right through the regular guide ATC. Unfortunately, the range is only up to 9.0mm, so unless you and your partners only run all skinny ropes, you'll still need another regular device for larger/normal diameter ropes. Nice to have the extra friction on the thin cord though for sure!
Outdoor Not Indoor
The gate where the rope threads is a bit narrow which makes it difficult for stiff gym ropes to be looped through. Personal ropes are great with this device and slide through just fine! The toothed side makes it a very easy break or even lockout if your climber wants to take a break. Highly recommend for the ATC quiver.
Best option for belaying with thin half/twin ropes
Have always trusted BD's previous ATC-Guide models but always found they were not optimized for thin half/twin ropes typically used in alpine situations. This ATC- Alpine Guide makes belaying with thin half/twin ropes feel very secure with this device. Better piece of mind while belaying with cold fingers.
Great for ski patrol!
I use this alpine ATC for ski patrol on Crystal Mtn and while I haven’t had to use it for real self evac situations off the lift, I I I have been using it a lot for training and it works great with the 6mm rope we use here at Crystal! Definitely recommend this for all you adventurers!