How to Choose Rock Climbing Shoes

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A great choice for new climbers, the Black Diamond Momentum climbing shoes have breathable fabric uppers and neutral lasts that offer serious comfort without sacrificing performance.
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View the Black Diamond Momentum Product LineView all Black Diamond Men's Climbing ShoesBest Use | Rock Climbing |
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Climbing Shoe Type | Neutral |
Last | Slip-lasted |
Upper | Synthetic knit |
Lining | Hemp |
Outsole | Rubber |
Footwear Closure | Strap |
Can Be Resoled | Yes |
Gender | Men's |
Weight (Pair) | 15.6 ounces |
4 | 4.5 | 5 | 5.5 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | 15 | |
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U.S. Men's | 4 | 4.5 | 5 | 5.5 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | 15 |
U.S. Women's | 5.5 | 6 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | ||||||||
UK | 3 | 3.5 | 4 | 4.5 | 5 | 5.5 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 14 |
EU | 35.5 | 36 | 37 | 37.5 | 38 | 39 | 39.5 | 40 | 41 | 41.5 | 42 | 42.5 | 43 | 44 | 44.5 | 45 | 46 | 46.5 | 47 | 48 | 48.5 | 49.5 |
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I was very exited to see that Black Diamond was making climbing shoes. The fabric of the shoes allows them to be very durable and breath much better than other cloth shoes. I really like that the tongue is overlapping as opposed to a single tongue. This shoe is surprisingly aggressive especially in the toe box. The look of the shoe and its flat arch doesn't give credit to how great of an aggressive shoe this is. Give these shoes a few climbing attempts to break in properly. The aggressive toe box was a huge difference at the start but once broken in was amazing when I used them outside.
I bought these because I was using my Katanas at the rock gym 2-3x week. I wanted a shoe I could wear somewhat comfortably rather than constantly popping off my super tight lace-ups during belay sessions. This shoe was affordable and I am still using them about a year later in the gym. The rubber has held up well and after a short break-in period they are comfortable enough to leave on but also super easy to get on and off if you want to get some air to your toes. What is most lacking is performance. I certainly didn't expect them to outshine my Katanas but I notice a definite lack of toeing and heel utility. Overall, good starter shoe and/or gym burner.
This is my go to shoe when climbing routes that require a lot of smearing. I can see these being great beginner shoes as well. The material is very comfy and breathable and the velcro makes it great for the gym. Mine streched maybe 1/4 of a size and they fit perfect when I ordered my street shoe size.
This is a good climbing shoe for a beginner or someone looking for a comfortable shoe to climb easy/moderate routes. I have used this shoe on plastic and outdoors. It edges and smears well - although with any new climbing shoe it took me a few pitches to completely trust its performance. As for fit, they are true to size. I wear a size 10 in a street shoe and this shoe fits well in a 10. It became more comfortable with use. The cloth uppers are very comfortable and the velcro straps allow you to cinch down to your liking. As an additional fyi - I have wide feet and Morton's toe. I definitely recommend this shoe to someone who is new to climbing. It's comfortable, easy to take on/off, performs well and will easily allow you to progress into more difficult terrain.
The shoe is well made, but not for me. The 10.5 is a good length for me (I wear 10.5 street shoes) but unbearably narrow in front to the point that the resting state is pain. I moved up to 11.5, they are OK up front but now too long and loose around the back, even with socks. They breathe well, which is nice, but the metal buckles dug into the top of my feet and caused pain which was distracting when I needed to concentrate on climbing. They where not a bad shoe if you have narrower feet but definitely not for me. I tried on some Scarpa Helix and Sportiva Tarantulace shoes and they fit much better.
This shoe does everything a beginner/intermediate climber will ask of it. It edges pretty well and is comfortable for long gym sessions and all day multi-pitch outside. The knit upper is great! It breathes well and I haven't experienced any stretching to speak of. I don't know how they will hold up on cracks though. It fits to length like a climbing shoe should in your street shoe size (It seems to be "pre-downsized") I wear a size 12 street shoe and normally downsize my climbing shoes at least a full size. The reason I didn't give it five stars is if you have narrow feet this is not the shoe for you. I have very narrow feet and the fabric of the forefoot bunched up when I got them cinched down tight. If you have average or wide feet these will be perfect for you. I usually prefer lace ups because of my feets narrow width.
I just burned through a pair of Mythos and I have to say I much prefer the Momentum. 1) they are fifty dollars cheaper for 2) the same ferformance. They are not as comfortable as the mythos and took twice as long to break in but with the velcro straps it was no inconvenience taking them off. My toes curl naturally and the stiff material on the top caused blisters during the breaking in process. The Momentum smears and edges just as well and has more material/rubber than the mythos, therefore lasts longer while retaining almost the same sensitivity. The momentum is definitely not made for overhangs but that should be obvious. Perfect beginner shoes and solid for even advanced slab/vertical climbing.
After using this shoe on a variety of climbs both indoor and out , I found it to be very comfortable with sticky enough rubber for the climbs is was doing. I enjoyed the velcro straps , very easy to get on and off. I found the sizing to be appropriate. The shoe felt durable and strong while bouldering ( in gym and outside ) provided support and flexibility in most situations. I found the toe to slip a bit on small holds on natural rocks. There were no issues with them on the sport route. Overall I felt confident climbing with this shoe.
I'm a novice climber at best but was tired of renting shoes so this is my first pair of climbing shoes. They fit pretty well, don't sweat too bad, stick well on routes with no foot holds (forgot the technical term for this). If I had to knock them, I would say two things, neither of which will hinder you to a great degree. Both have to do with the velcro adjustment: the tabs are too long, and they don't cinch up tight enough for people with fairly narrow feet. My feet are not super narrow but I suppose they are on the narrower size. I end up having to fold the cloth a bit so I can get them tight enough. Other than that I would say these are great. Like I said I am a beginner but they work well for my purposes.
Im very happy with these shoes, and my feet are too. Sizing is true, but may take a few days to break in properly. They are easy on and off between climbs at the gym thanks to the velcro straps and as far as performance goes they are surprisingly aggressive. These would be a great first pair of shoes because they are comfortable, yet aggressive enough to keep around as you advance to more technical climbing.