DMM Dragon Cam
Increase holding power and reduce walking with the TripleGrip cam lobes on the DMM Dragon cam. Its dual-axle, single-stem design offers 360° flexibility and a large expansion range.
- Ergonomic, hot-forged thumb press with extendable 8mm Dyneema® sling
- 13.75° cam angle for high holding power
Imported.
View all DMM CamsBest Use | Rock Climbing |
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Expansion Range | 00: 14-21 millimeters 0: 16-25 millimeters 1: 20-33 millimeters 2: 24-41 millimeters 3: 29-50 millimeters 4: 38-64 millimeters 5: 50-85 millimeters 6: 68-114 millimeters 7: 88-149 millimeters 8: 116-195 millimeters |
Strength | 00: 9 kilonewtons 0: 12 kilonewtons 1: 14 kilonewtons 2: 14 kilonewtons 3: 14 kilonewtons 4: 14 kilonewtons 5: 14 kilonewtons 6: 14 kilonewtons 7: 14 kilonewtons 8: 14 kilonewtons |
Weight | 00: 75 grams 0: 85 grams 1: 103 grams 2: 117 grams 3: 128 grams 4: 154 grams 5: 208 grams 6: 299 grams 7: 362 grams 8: 515 grams |
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Perhaps the best cam on the market
These cams are amazing. The extendable sling is what drew me to them, and how incredibly well they stay put when you place them made me go ahead and double up my rack with 'em. Some people complain about there being no thumb loop, but I've found the thumb press to work just fine and don't plan on getting into aid climbing seriously. Trigger action is smooth as butter, and they look super sexy to boot. I work at a local climbing gym, and a rep from another top-tier climbing company told me DMM took his employer's idea and made a it better. If that doesn't sell you on these cams, I'm not sure what will. The only downside is if the sling is extended and you are following, it can be a bit of a pain to double the sling back up. A minor quibble for such a fantastic device.
Best Dual Axle Cam For Me
Of the dual axle cam designs (Friends, C4s, and C4 Ultralights) these are my favorite. The TripleGrip lobes are not a gimmick, especially in marginal placements. If you practice with the extendable slings on the ground, it feels second-nature up high, but it can be confusing at first. I have cams that do have a thumb loop (WC Friends) and I find no difference in ease of use. Unless you aid climb (need a thumb loop) or need the absolute lightest set of cams on the market, these are golden. For limestone and slick rock, they are by far the best dual axle, and compliment a set of Totems nicely.
Solid and dependable
I have a single rack of these from 00 (small blue) to 6 (large grey). I’ve used them in the UK, the Alps, and the US. I’m a big fan of the grid patterning on the lobes, which is confidence inspiring and seem like they should reduce the cam’s tendency to walk. I use the extendable sling frequently - sometimes I feel that it does save me a quick draw. And when I both extend a sling and use a runner, then I feel that rope drag is less likely to extend to the cam and so it’s more likely to stay put. Also worth noting that the cams are rated to be placed as passive gear, so they can stand in for nuts or hexes in a pinch in certain situations. Downsides - they are a bit heavier and I think have a slightly smaller range per cam size compared to at least BD C4s. But they are very well made and bomber.
Great lobes, but the rest needs work
I have the red Dragon and I love almost everything about it. When it is placed, I feel super good about it. The lobes are SO nice I have no worries about it walking or sliding around. God they’re so perfect and sticky. Makes me drool. My issue with these comes more as a follower. They’re hard to clean. The stem is small and the trigger can be hard to reach before you scrape up your fingers trying to retract it. I was out yesterday with a friend who has a whole double rack of DMM Dragons, and I was missing my Wild Country Friends and BD C4s. Even my Metolius cams. They’re just easier to clean, to be honest. My other issue is the extendable slings. What I thought was a main selling point ended up being an annoyance. You can only extend it from one side, or it’ll get caught and not extend all the way. The sewn part of the sling just won’t pass through the stem. So when I’m pumped and trying to extend the sling, I have to fiddle with it for longer than it would take to just put in a separate sling. Also, retracting the sling as a follower is annoying. I’m posting a photo of the length of the DMM sling as compared to the BD C4s and the Wild Country Friends. In my opinion, if you need to extend the placement, 3 inches doesn’t substitute the need for a QuickDraw or 60cm sling. You’ll often find yourself still needing a sling even after extending it. All in all, I think these have their place. If you’re climbing splitter sandstone cracks or slippery limestone, these would be a great choice. The machined lobes are literally to die for and unlike any other cam I’ve used. But the stem length and extendable sling becomes a turn off, especially if you mainly climb on granite (like I do).
absolutely love these cams!
I’ve had these cams for a little while now and they are great! They are the only cams I have owed but when I compare them to the c4s the lobes are more aggressive and I don’t see them walking around in a placement the added sling allows less draws and they just look great. I absolutely love them I plan on getting a second set of 0-5 just to have them they make me feel secure when pushing my limits
Reliable, bomber, easy to use
Ever been a route and it started raining on you? Fear no more. These are bomber, not horridly expensive, and the double sling has saved me a good amount of time on certain placements. And wow... they’re just so pretty