Black Diamond  ATC-Guide Belay Device

So far so good. Although I had some trouble feeding rope through the device in Guide Mode while belaying my partner. BD recommends using a large smooth carabiner to ease the passage of the rope. So I'll have to try that and see if it fixes the problem. The paint scratches off pretty easily; doesn't bother me or hurt the function though. Works just as advertised while belaying a lead climber or in a top-rope situation. I love that the device is reversible so that there are two options when needing more or less friction. Great when switching between large and small diameter ropes.

This is the device i learned to belay on, and I plan on keeping it for a long time. It is as easy to use as the ATC-XP, but has the ability to go far beyond the gym for only a few dollars more. ATCs are all incredibly light, and this is no different. It feeds rope easily and catches confidently. I've only used friction mode, but it's nice knowing I can smoothly belay somebody much lighter. Don't let the name fool you, this is ideal for beginners and will help develop proper technique without becoming obsolete. One of the best values in climbing!

The standard multi pitch guide device. Simple and bomber. While it might be heavier than a reverso it works better on ropes over 9.5 and it actually lasts (my last reverso wore sharp edges in one summer). The guide truly works across a huge rope range, but remember you have two friction options. For ropes over the 9.7-9.8 range flip it around so that the v notch is facing toward the climber side, there is no need for additional friction on large ropes. The width on this device has not changed and anodizing on the wear surfaces wears smooth in a few rappels. In low friction mode this is no different than an old ATC w/o the v notched teeth. I have caught a lead fall on one strand of an 8mm half rope set, with a 145lb leader this was fine w/o gloves. If you need more friction for heavier leaders, skinny twins, or wet/icy ropes just double up carabiners (works for any guide device), run both biners through the rope AND your belay loop. For belaying followers you definitely want a fully round stock (circular cross section) biner on any device. You'll have far too much friction with an i beam biner. The atc has one of the lower amounts of resistance pulling rope through in guide mode, but for the smoothest a pull a traditional plate (kong gigi or camp ovo) can't be beat.

Very versatile. Works like a charm for lead belaying, top rope belaying, belaying a second on multipitch, and rappelling. Large ropes work great on the non-grooved side, and thinner/slicker ropes work well on the grooved side. I found the guide mode to be very useful for belaying a second and didn't find it that strenuous of a process. Make sure to read the manufactures' directions for lowering a second if necessary as there have been some mishaps reported. Follow the directions and it works great.

Repell, belay, belay from above... does it all and does it well!

The ATC-Guide is a must have for anyone looking to perform multi-pitch climbs. Works perfect with a 9.8mm non-dry rope. I’ve never had an issue with it and will buy another one when this one wear out (which won’t be for a few years at least).

I usually belay with my grigri, but use this often to rappel when outside. This is one of those pieces every climber should have.

The cool matte finish causes increased friction on 10+mm ropes and the holes may be smaller than in past models. I returned it because it was physically demanding to pay out slack on these larger ropes. Not so bad on ropes closer to 9mm.

I am strictly an indoor climber of limited experience, so I may not be using this product where it shines, but it's not as easy to use as a regular ATC in my use cases. It creates a lot of friction when taking in slack while someone is climbing, regardless of orientation of the grooves, and doesn't lower that easily, either. I went back to a plain jane ATC and like it much better.

I've had this for a few years now and I always use it when i climb. I love the versatility of it with belaying normally or on guide mode. I'm not stuck with a specific style. I also dropped mine about 60 feet from the top of a climb and it only had minor dings and scratches. That was a couple of years ago and I still use it all the time and have total confidence in it.