How to Choose Belay Devices

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The versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers complete belay and rappel functions and can be used with a variety of rope sizes.
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View all Black Diamond Belay and Rappel Devices| Best Use | Climbing |
|---|---|
| Suitable for Belaying | Yes |
| Suitable for Rappelling | Yes |
| Fits Rope Sizes | 7.7mm - 11mm, single/double |
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I bought this device at the beginning of the year... January 2012. I was going through gear in November and noticed that the device was getting very sharp edges right in the back where the rope touches. This was concerning as I have probably used it less than 200 full days. I multi pitched a decent amount this summer- 20-30 routes, but the rest were Single Pitch or indoor. BD used to be my go to brand but recently gear has just seemed not as impressive. The harness I have as well has caused me concern as it seemed to fray on the belay loop faster than older models. I would go with the Petzl Reverso. Seems to last longer.
Great for a veriety of uses. Dont buy the basic model, this is the one you want unless you're a rare climber or really trying to save money but if you're gonna climb, rapel, multipitch, rescue, it'll do it all. Great product and something that all climbers should own.
The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a fairly sturdy belay device that is able to be used in "Guide" mode, enabling ease of belaying from the top of multi-pitch climbs. I owned the Petzl Reverso 4 before this device and decided to try the Black Diamond out after my Reverso wore through. Both devices are essentially the same except that the Reverso is $5 more expensive and marginally lighter. The Black Diamond functions perfectly for standard belay procedures. The friction teeth work well with ropes 10.1 mm or larger. Smaller ropes will work fine but will be similar to a standard non-toothed aperture device. In "guide-mode," the Black Diamond was difficult to use with a 10.1mm rope. Though the auto-block was solid, releasing slack was more difficult than that of the Petzl Reverso. In many cases, this proved frustrating and annoying on multipitch climbs. If you are looking for a solid belay device for sport climbs and perhaps the occasional multi-pitch, this device will work just fine. However, if do climb a lot of multipitch, I'd recommend you look to the Petzl Reverso.
I climb on average 3 times a week both indoor and outdoor. This is my favorite Belaying/ Rappelling Device. I have this for some time and it has great braking power. This is great and a must for multi-pitch routes allowing you to do double rope rappel. There are similar devices a little lighter by a few grams however they are a little more expensive. At the time I purchased this it was the best and lightest device with as much utilities. This device is great for belaying lead climber when you must give rope very quickly. The only Con is that on project routes or belaying new climbers is that you must hold the hanging rope the entire time for climbs like that I prefer the Petzl Grigri however it is a lot more expensive
I use the ATC-Guide in trad rock climbing for belaying a second from the top, or for belaying from the bottom. I have a regular ATC but once I started belaying seconds I needed an ATC that would allow doing it. I am very satisfied with the ATC-guide. Only the Petzl Reverso compares to this one, but I like Black Diamond way more.
The ATC is the gold standard of tube style belay devices. The ATC Guide adds additional friction ridges, like the ATC XP and Petzl Reverso, and includes an auto-block for guide work. The ATC Guide, like any tube style belay device, is easy to learn and simple to use. Using the ATC in guide modes is only minorly more complicated then using it normally. Overall if you only take one belay device with you, the ATC Guide can handle 99% of the things you need it do.
Works; gives more holding power than a ATC, which I've used for about ten years. The problem is that the device has sharp edges that catch the rope when pulling in or feeding out slack. The Petzl equivalent is smoother and nicer to use, and works as well in auto-block mode.
It's excellent. The brake is effective, the rope runs through smoothly on the descent. Though lead belaying with a GriGri can be convenient, belaying with this ATC is just as easy for an experience climber. The device does not require a lot of force to stop the rope.
Everything you loved about the old BD ATC-Guide in a lighter package. Immediately when I saw this, I knew I had to get it. Saves a few grams on the rack. Still autoblocks, still has friction teeth. Still sticks a little when pulling rope through, but I'm so like, omg, totally over it now, what belay device doesn't (the sucky ones with less friction, that's what).
Works as it is supposed to. Got into sport climbing and wanted something that was easy to use to belay someone up to me. Haven't had any problem as far as durability, or the sharp edges others seem to experience. I have not used it a ton, but enough to feel comfortable using it.