Black Diamond  ATC-Guide Belay Device

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The versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers complete belay and rappel functions and can be used with a variety of rope sizes.

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Features

  • ATC-Guide can be set up as an auto-block device when you're belaying 1 or 2 seconding climbers
  • Auto-block release hole lets you use a carabiner or a piece of cord to release the device when loaded so you can lower a seconding climber
  • Variable friction design gives great control with many rope diameters; ATC-Guide can handle ropes sizes from 7.7 - 11mm in diameter
  • High-friction grooves provide great hold and stopping power
  • Machined windows through the device make it lighter than the original ATC-Guide belay device
  • Made from durable, hot-forged anodized 7075-T6 aluminum
  • Double-slot design allows you to feed single or double ropes smoothly without kinking the rope

Imported.

View all Black Diamond Belay and Rappel Devices

Technical Specs

Best Use

Climbing

Suitable for Belaying

Yes

Suitable for Rappelling

Yes

Fits Rope Sizes

7.7mm - 11mm, single/double

Buying Advice

Reviews
17 reviews with an average rating of 4.5 out of 5 stars

88% 14 of 16 reviewers recommended

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Most Helpful Favorable Review

6 people found this review helpful
5 reviews with an average rating of 4.0 out of 5 stars
12 years ago
Great ATC-used by many advanced climbers
I use the ATC-Guide in trad rock climbing for belaying a second from the top, or for belaying from the bottom. I have a regular ATC but once I started belaying seconds I needed an ATC that would allow doing it. I am very satisfied with the ATC-guide. Only the Petzl Reverso compares to this one, but I like Black Diamond way more.
Multi-sports
Boston, MA

Most Helpful Critical Review

14 people found this review helpful
5 reviews with an average rating of 3.0 out of 5 stars
12 years ago
Black Diamond ATC Guide
The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a fairly sturdy belay device that is able to be used in "Guide" mode, enabling ease of belaying from the top of multi-pitch climbs. I owned the Petzl Reverso 4 before this device and decided to try the Black Diamond out after my Reverso wore through. Both devices are essentially the same except that the Reverso is $5 more expensive and marginally lighter. The Black Diamond functions perfectly for standard belay procedures. The friction teeth work well with ropes 10.1 mm or larger. Smaller ropes will work fine but will be similar to a standard non-toothed aperture device. In "guide-mode," the Black Diamond was difficult to use with a 10.1mm rope. Though the auto-block was solid, releasing slack was more difficult than that of the Petzl Reverso. In many cases, this proved frustrating and annoying on multipitch climbs. If you are looking for a solid belay device for sport climbs and perhaps the occasional multi-pitch, this device will work just fine. However, if do climb a lot of multipitch, I'd recommend you look to the Petzl Reverso.
yellowxc
Portland, OR
Mharon47
Location:Colorado
Rated 3.0 out of 5 stars
12 years ago

Decent

I bought this device at the beginning of the year... January 2012. I was going through gear in November and noticed that the device was getting very sharp edges right in the back where the rope touches. This was concerning as I have probably used it less than 200 full days. I multi pitched a decent amount this summer- 20-30 routes, but the rest were Single Pitch or indoor. BD used to be my go to brand but recently gear has just seemed not as impressive. The harness I have as well has caused me concern as it seemed to fray on the belay loop faster than older models. I would go with the Petzl Reverso. Seems to last longer.

BE22ER
Location:Monroe, ME
Rated 5.0 out of 5 stars
13 years ago

A must have product

Great for a veriety of uses. Dont buy the basic model, this is the one you want unless you're a rare climber or really trying to save money but if you're gonna climb, rapel, multipitch, rescue, it'll do it all. Great product and something that all climbers should own.

yellowxc
Location:Portland, OR
Rated 3.0 out of 5 stars
12 years ago

Black Diamond ATC Guide

The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a fairly sturdy belay device that is able to be used in "Guide" mode, enabling ease of belaying from the top of multi-pitch climbs. I owned the Petzl Reverso 4 before this device and decided to try the Black Diamond out after my Reverso wore through. Both devices are essentially the same except that the Reverso is $5 more expensive and marginally lighter. The Black Diamond functions perfectly for standard belay procedures. The friction teeth work well with ropes 10.1 mm or larger. Smaller ropes will work fine but will be similar to a standard non-toothed aperture device. In "guide-mode," the Black Diamond was difficult to use with a 10.1mm rope. Though the auto-block was solid, releasing slack was more difficult than that of the Petzl Reverso. In many cases, this proved frustrating and annoying on multipitch climbs. If you are looking for a solid belay device for sport climbs and perhaps the occasional multi-pitch, this device will work just fine. However, if do climb a lot of multipitch, I'd recommend you look to the Petzl Reverso.

Booshway
Location:Reno, NV
Rated 5.0 out of 5 stars
14 years ago

A must for Climbers

I climb on average 3 times a week both indoor and outdoor. This is my favorite Belaying/ Rappelling Device. I have this for some time and it has great braking power. This is great and a must for multi-pitch routes allowing you to do double rope rappel. There are similar devices a little lighter by a few grams however they are a little more expensive. At the time I purchased this it was the best and lightest device with as much utilities. This device is great for belaying lead climber when you must give rope very quickly. The only Con is that on project routes or belaying new climbers is that you must hold the hanging rope the entire time for climbs like that I prefer the Petzl Grigri however it is a lot more expensive

Multi-sports
Location:Boston, MA
Rated 4.0 out of 5 stars
12 years ago

Great ATC-used by many advanced climbers

I use the ATC-Guide in trad rock climbing for belaying a second from the top, or for belaying from the bottom. I have a regular ATC but once I started belaying seconds I needed an ATC that would allow doing it. I am very satisfied with the ATC-guide. Only the Petzl Reverso compares to this one, but I like Black Diamond way more.

Jenrick
Location:Austin, TX
Rated 5.0 out of 5 stars
14 years ago

Everything the ATC has and then some

The ATC is the gold standard of tube style belay devices. The ATC Guide adds additional friction ridges, like the ATC XP and Petzl Reverso, and includes an auto-block for guide work. The ATC Guide, like any tube style belay device, is easy to learn and simple to use. Using the ATC in guide modes is only minorly more complicated then using it normally. Overall if you only take one belay device with you, the ATC Guide can handle 99% of the things you need it do.

Paul B
Location:San Diego, Ca
Rated 3.0 out of 5 stars
13 years ago

buy the Petzl version

Works; gives more holding power than a ATC, which I've used for about ten years. The problem is that the device has sharp edges that catch the rope when pulling in or feeding out slack. The Petzl equivalent is smoother and nicer to use, and works as well in auto-block mode.

AdrenalineJunki3
Location:Denver, CO
Rated 5.0 out of 5 stars
11 years ago

ATC guide

It's excellent. The brake is effective, the rope runs through smoothly on the descent. Though lead belaying with a GriGri can be convenient, belaying with this ATC is just as easy for an experience climber. The device does not require a lot of force to stop the rope.

ROCKofGLOVE
Location:IE, CA
Rated 5.0 out of 5 stars
14 years ago

The benchmark

Everything you loved about the old BD ATC-Guide in a lighter package. Immediately when I saw this, I knew I had to get it. Saves a few grams on the rack. Still autoblocks, still has friction teeth. Still sticks a little when pulling rope through, but I'm so like, omg, totally over it now, what belay device doesn't (the sucky ones with less friction, that's what).

the outdoor enthusiast
Location:Seattle, WA
Rated 5.0 out of 5 stars
12 years ago

Works like it should

Works as it is supposed to. Got into sport climbing and wanted something that was easy to use to belay someone up to me. Haven't had any problem as far as durability, or the sharp edges others seem to experience. I have not used it a ton, but enough to feel comfortable using it.

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