How to Choose Rock Climbing Shoes

Combining downturned toes, tensioned midsoles and compression closures, the men's evolv Shaman Pro climbing shoes are sensitive and powerful for comp-style bouldering and steep leads.
$21
10% Reward
on this and every eligible full-price item*
+
$30
Bonus Card
valid for 60 days after joining*
=
$51
Value
Keep shopping
Imported.
View all evolv Men's Climbing ShoesBest Use | Rock Climbing |
---|---|
Climbing Shoe Type | Aggressive |
Last | Slip-lasted |
Upper | Synthetic lux microsuede |
Lining | Synthetic lux microsuede |
Outsole | 4.2 mm TRAX high-friction rubber |
Footwear Closure | Strap |
Can Be Resoled | Yes |
Vegan | Yes |
Gender | Men's |
Weight (Pair) | 1 lb. 6 oz. |
Climbing Shoe Volume | High |
6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | 5 Mens/6 Womens | 5.5 Mens/6.5 Womens | 6 Mens/7 Womens | 6.5 Mens/7.5 Womens | 7 Mens/8 Womens | 7.5 Mens/8.5 Womens | 8 Mens/9 Womens | 8.5 Mens/9.5 Womens | 9 Mens/10 Womens | 9.5 Mens/10.5 Womens | 10 Mens/11 Womens | 10.5 Mens/11.5 Womens | 11 Mens/12 Womens | 11.5 Mens/12.5 Womens | 12 Mens/13 Womens | 12.5 Mens/13.5 Womens | 13 Mens/14 Womens | 13.5 Mens/14.5 Womens | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
U.S. Men's | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | 5 | 5.5 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 |
U.S. Women's | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | 14.5 | 15 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | 14.5 |
EU | 38 | 39 | 39.5 | 40 | 41 | 41.5 | 42 | 42.5 | 43 | 44 | 44.5 | 45 | 46 | 46.5 | 47 | 48 | 48.5 | 37 | 37.5 | 38 | 39 | 39.5 | 40 | 41 | 41.5 | 42 | 42.5 | 43 | 44 | 44.5 | 45 | 46 | 46.5 | 47 | 48 |
Evolv shoes are not designed to be downsized.
Evolv sizing uses three categories of fit: Max Performance, Performance, and Comfort.
Max Performance : Choose street shoe size. Ultra-snug fit to deliver the maximum possible performance.
Performance : Choose street shoe size and add .5 to 1.0 size. Snug fit for longer sessions.
Comfort : Choose street shoe size and add 1.0 to 1.5 sizes. Comfortable fit for multi-pitch or entry level.
VOLUME
All Evolv climbing shoes come in Low Volume and Medium Volume models.
Low Volume : Designed for a maximum performance fit and lower volume foot shapes.
Medium Volume : Designed for a performance fit and average volume foot shapes.
Adding a review will require a valid email for verification
These shoes are great for hard sport climbing/bouldering! They’re soft enough to smear on volumes but powerful enough to push through small edges and jibs. The toe patch works well for toe hooks and I haven’t had any problems with the strap closure system fraying. The dark spine on the heel works really well and grabs onto really minute details on the rock. As far as fit, I got my first pair half a size above my street shoe and they were comfortable but precise! In my current pair, I went with my street shoe size to increase powering off of small holds and they fit great! Overall, my favorite shoe from Evolv.
Sizing: 39.5 eu (40 street, 41 phantoms, 40 vims, 38 drago, 38 theory) Break-in time: 5-6 sessions Tl;dr: Great all around (indoor and outdoor, overhang and slab) shoe, softer and more responsive than phantoms but more supportive than theories and dragos. Even as a soft shoe connoisseur, highly recommend. Warm up the rubber before climbing. I've always struggled to find a shoe that felt like it fit really well. I have a somewhat wide Greek (2nd toe longer than 1st) foot with a narrow and shallow heel. Evolv shoes have typically fit my feet better than most other brands due to their less tapered toeboxes and narrower heels, but my phantoms felt blocky (I prefer softer shoes). Breaking these shoes in was painful and did cause blisters on the knuckles of some of my toes but now after 5-6 sessions they feel perfect after warming up the rubber. I've taken these both outdoors and indoors on numerous occasions, and they have performed well in every regard. The shoe has enough give to smear on fiberglass and polished rock, but enough support to really power down and claw into marginal chips and crystals. I do prefer my softer shoes (dragos, theories) indoors as the stiffer midsole of the shaman pros requires more attention on smeary volumes/footholds but that's not to say they can't smear. The heel is a bit weird. It fits me better (less baggy) than all my other shoes (except maybe the vims) but it doesn't feel as secure. This is combated by the closure system. Speaking of which, the inner strap loops are already showing wear (mostly cosmetic, as they're metal) and the fabric loops along with the strap itself are fraying a little but nothing compromising so far. The new upper is my favorite of any shoe, and the rubber is among the stickiest - maybe a little less sticky than the XS Grip2 on my theories and dragos but definitely more durable. Definitely try them out if you can!
I’m a real fan of Evolve since getting a pair of 2022 Shaman Laces instead of just another pair of Katanas. I was intrigued by their severe downturn, split sole, asymmetry and cool aesthetics. They perform great and I climb in them pretty much exclusively now. I’ve seen people Bouldering in the Evolve Phantom and was almost ready to get a pair on the REI website. I was never a fan of the Phantom’s appearance; so when I saw these 2023 Shaman Pros, I pounced on them instead. I wear 45.5/12 in LaSportiva, but I had to go up to 13 in both the Shaman Lace and the Shaman Pro; and still they are “Snug”. If I wanted a tight fit, I could have gone with 12.5, but there’s no way I can get my feet into an Evolve 12. I’m not an expert climber or boulderer, so take the following performance evaluation with that grain of salt. The Shaman Pro seems softer and more flexible than the Shaman Laces. I would compare it to the Scarpa Drago and LaSportiva Skwama. The forefoot feels to me less stiff than the Phantom’s 4.2 mm of sole. There’s adequate rubber on the top of the forefoot for toe-hooking, unless you are someone who wants 100% rubber like on the Phantom. The heel is definitely snug and a tad bit higher than the Shaman Lace; so I don’t think you would encounter slippage with heel hooks. Going back to the forefoot, it gives you this weirdfully wonderful feeling that you can flex your big toe and other toes within, and sort of “grab” a feature, like a monkey can do with their feet. I am fascinated with this phenomenon; maybe you would be too. If you are not crazy about the ++the forefoot sole of the Phantom is too thick and not sensitive enough, then I think you might really like this 2023 Shaman Pro. Right now it’s exclusive at REI, so you can be the “first kid on your block”; but be prepared to be questioned at the gym.
Ordered a size 12, Went up a size from my normal sneaker size (11) also bc I wear a size 12 in other climbing shoes and ouuch were they painful. Called and was exchanged a half size larger (12.5) and still super tight. I understand being tight but being painful isn't ideal. The big toe curl is the only fit in the toes your remaining toes are rolled up extremely hard. Overall build and style are nice.
This review is for all the climbing friends with big feet out there! Design is good, though the straps seemed a little under-built. Main problem was sizing. I am a true 12.5US and these 13s were Small! I've tried 3 or 4 different pairs for aggressive shoes that work for big feet, still on the hunt. Tried a regular shamans as well and still ran very small.