Temperature was not a problem. It was mild when we started at 4:55 a.m., pleasant as we ascended the lower slopes on a cloudless morning, faintly cool but comfortable at the summit.

Yet I struggled above 9,000 feet above Long Valley, a reaction to thinner air I’ve experienced on past trips, particularly when lots of elevation is gained abruptly.

Your performance on this route may vary, but here’s my takeaway: Aim for a quick pace, but don’t be surprised if the going is slower than you’d prefer.

Start a C2C attempt really early—not only to beat the desert heat (important) but also to ensure you’ll have ample time to 1) compensate for involuntary slowdowns and 2) soak in summit views.

Realize that the 2 starting points for a C2C hike are 7-plus miles from the base of the tramway, aka Valley Station (2,643 feet). You’ll need to leave one car here (or near here) and transport yourself to one of the trailheads that lead to the Skyline Trail.

Early risers, take note: The road to the tram’s Valley Station remains blocked by a locked gate until at least 5 a.m. each day, a tram spokeswoman told me. Steve and I spotted chat room messages that reported on some days the gate may not swing open until 6:30 a.m.

We left one vehicle at the visitor center at the bottom of Tramway Road, then shuttled ourselves to Schad’s preferred trailhead, at the west end of W. Ramon Rd. Many locals, I’m told, prefer a trail that leads from the parking lot of the Palm Springs Art Museum. The 2 trails intersect about a mile up and merge into what is known as the Skyline Trail. 

Best moment: Watching the sun rise and gradually illuminate the landscape. Close second: Observing changes in plant life while ascending. Among my favorite spots along the route was a place where a mature yucca plant stood near a young ponderosa pine.

Water: I carried nearly 2 gallons (a gallon weighs about 8.3 pounds). That was more than I needed on a day where I estimate my max temperature was in the upper 70s. Every hiker has different needs, and each day is different, so base your water load on your own experience. A gallon per person is a minimum.

The route is dry all the way to Long Valley. There water can be obtained from restrooms at the Long Valley Ranger Station, and the restrooms are accessible 24/7 year-round. Water can also be found at the tram’s Mountain Station when it's open, but getting there requires a steep, quarter-mile trudge up a concrete sidewalk—an easy walk if you’re fresh; not so inviting if you’ve just finished clomping up Skyline.

Hazards: Along the way I spotted water bottles that Skyline regulars leave in random spots (see Fans section below), a water bucket and 2 emergency phone boxes. (Photo to the left: I talked weary Steve out of using one to call in a chopper.)

Bart Grant is the supervising ranger of Mount San Jacinto State Park, which has jurisdiction over the land just below Long Valley and San Jacinto Peak. Familiar problems, he says, are people running out of energy or water around the 5,000-foot level—too high to turn back, but still with a long stretch to reach the ranger station.

It gets even more complicated if early-autumn snow has fallen and made the route tough to locate. “Most rescues have to do with people being unprepared for the challenges the Skyline Trail presents,” Grant said. “Usually they’re due to conditioning or environmental factors.” Fatalities, he says, have occurred on the route, many due to heat stroke. People have also been injured when attempting the route in winter when snow and ice clog the route.

Lesson: Do not approach the Skyline Trail as a casual jaunt. It’s a serious challenge that requires a well-conditioned hiker’s best efforts.

Fans: The Skyline Trail has garnered a dedicated, often zealous, even protective fan base, folks who know every kink in the trail by name, from Flat Rock to Coffman's Crag to Grubbs Notch (which is where Skyliners finally reach flat ground in Long Valley around 8,400 feet).

I interacted with Skyline devotees on well-organized forum, the Mt. San Jacinto Outdoor Recreation message board. It’s a friendly group, and many act as self-appointed volunteer stewards of the route.

They reluctantly concede the word is pretty much out about their trail and lament that nonregulars and one-time visitors too often leave trash, disassemble trail markers and veer off on rouge shortcuts that hasten erosion.