How to Choose Downhill Skis

A new pair of skis is so much more than a shiny new toy—it’s your vehicle for alpine joy. And finding the right one for you will transform your on-hill experience from frustrating to exhilarating. But standing in front of all those cellophane-wrapped boards on the ski shop wall can be intimidating and overwhelming, even for experts. That’s where we come in. We’ll walk you through every step of choosing a pair of downhill skis, simplifying the process and saving you hours of research.

Your ideal ski depends on multiple factors: the terrain you ski, your skill level, your location and your skiing style. Width, length, shape and construction all influence how a ski behaves and who it’s best for. This guide will focus primarily on downhill resort skis and will match you with a handful of skis in the category that’s perfect for you. (Those looking for guidance on cross-country skis or backcountry skis can check out those individual buying guides.)

In this article, we’ll go into:

• The right skis for you based on where you plan to ski

• What ski type is right for you?

• What ski shape and profile do you need?

• Camber and rocker

• Sidecut radius

• Ski materials

• What ski length do you need?

• Ski sizing chart

• Choosing bindings

• What to know about DIN settings

• Quick staff ski picks

• Why trust this guide

Editor's note: We updated this buying guide on Nov. 24, 2025, to add new information from experts.

Video: Downhill Skis: How to Choose

Where Do You Plan to Ski?

The first question to ask yourself:  What type of terrain will you mostly ski? That will determine the category of skis you’ll be shopping within. The categories are determined primarily by a ski’s waist width. (A ski’s waist width is listed in millimeters as the middle number in its given dimensions, which correspond to tip, waist and tail widths.)

“Having a ski that allows you to play best where you ski and how you like to ski can turn a regular or frustrating day on the snow to a fantastic one,” says Lisa Chandler, senior action sports specialist at the REI store in Laguna Hills, California. “You can forget about the gear and just flow.”  

If you like to ski groomers or are a beginner, look for a narrower ski—under 90 mm wide. If you ski the whole mountain and prize versatility, look for an all-mountain ski, anywhere from 91-114 mm wide. For deep or soft powder purists, opt for a ski that’s 115 mm or more. Read more about our quick picks below.

Chart: Understand Different Ski Types

What Ski Type is Right For You?

REI classifies skis into the following categories:

All-Mountain Skis

The all-mountain category is the largest and most versatile. 

Waist widths up to 90 mm: Ideal for those who ski mostly groomed terrain. Their narrower waists are faster and easier to get up on edge, and, for those just starting out, they’ll help teach you the art of the carve. There are a wide range of skis for every ability level in this category, so knowing your level will help you hone on in the right subcategory. Many of these skis, especially at the narrower end of the spectrum, will have integrated binding systems either for ease of purchasing for beginners or more seamless power transfer for experts. 

Waist widths between 90-114 mm: Skis in this category are designed to do it all—carve on groomers, suck up bumps and float through fluff. Where you fall in this category depends a bit on location, as East coasters can opt for slightly narrower for harder snow, while those on the West Coast can go a bit wider for soft snow. While versatility is key, there are so many flavors within this category that it’s good to identify if you’d like something that’s light and lively or damp and stable, which will influence the materials you might want your skis to include. There are also some in this category that are a little “looser” in feel, with more tip and tail rocker, which make them all-mountain freeride skis.

Powder Skis

These wide-bodied beauties have 115 mm or more waists and are designed to surf through the deep. They generally have more rocker in the nose to keep the skis afloat, says Kelly Maggs, senior category merchandising manager for skis at REI.  Like water skis, they have enough surface area to float on top of powder instead of diving underneath it. They’re specialists, so they may feel slow to get on edge and will skid around on groomers, but when the pressure drops and the storms roll in, they’ll steer you where you want to go. Example: Atomic Bent Chetler 120 Skis and the Rossignol Sender Free 118 Ski.

Freestyle

These skis typically run in the 85-95 mm waist-width range and are twin-tipped and symmetrical for landing switch, or backwards. They are lightweight for ease of in-air tricks, durable for landing on rails and softer flexing for buttering and jibbing. Freestyle skis also have a different binding mounting point than the typical slightly rearward position, as it’s best to be centered or even slightly forward for a balanced feel while spinning through the air or skiing backwards.

Kids' Downhill Skis

It may make sense to buy clothes that kids can "grow into," but that strategy does not pay off for aspiring young skiers. Equip them with downhill skis that are a good fit for their current size. For the very young (under 6), tips in general should not quite reach their chins (or be 6 to 8 inches below the tops of their heads). For youth (under 12), tips should touch a part of their middle or upper face. Kids can always ski a shorter ski but may have problems with a long ski. When in doubt, go shorter. Kids' downhill skis often include bindings.

Backcountry Skis

This category is a balancing between lightweight for efficient uphill travel and performance (since you'll want to enjoy your hard-earned turns once your rip those climbing skins off). Check out our dedicated backcountry ski guide to learn more.  

What Ski Shape and Profile Do You Need?

While waist width has the biggest impact on how a ski will behave, other ski dimensions and materials will also affect your experience. 

Camber and Rocker

Camber and rocker are terms used to describe the side profile of a ski. If you set a ski on the snow, you can see that the middle section is either convex, flat or concave.

Camber is the convex shape, and it’s the most traditional ski design. It makes a ski feel lively, directional and grippy. Camber features a continuous arc (or bow) that runs for much of the length of the ski, causing the middle of the ski to rise off the snow. When a skier stands on a ski, it flattens due to the skier's weight. At that point the entire length of the base can provide stability and the ski's metal edge can initiate turns. As a skier moves from turn to turn, camber provides the energy for a ski to snap back from turns, creating a sensation of liveliness. Cambered skis are also better at gripping hard snow because the entire edge of the ski has contact with it.

Rocker is the reverse: Its side profile resembles the upturned rails of a rocking chair. On a flat surface, the midsection of a rockered ski will rest on the ground while its tips and tails rise off the ground much earlier than they do for a cambered ski. Rocker offers improved flotation in powder, easier turn initiation and greater maneuverability. Skis with a lot of camber feel smeary in powder and allow for quick pivoting and slowing.

Most frontside skis employ camber for rebound and grip. Most all-mountain skis employ camber underfoot with rocker at the tip and tail for ease of turn initiation and float. Most powder skis are either flat with steep rocker at the tip and tail, or fully rockered.

Sidecut Radius

The relationship between the tip, waist and tail dimensions of any ski creates an arc. Now, imagine if you were able to take a pencil and draw a giant circle that completes that arc. The radius of that circle is what's known in the skiing world as sidecut radius (or turning radius) and is expressed in meters.

You can make tight turns and big arcing ones with the same ski, but knowing the sidecut radius can give you an idea of what kind of turns the ski really excels at. In general, skis with low sidecut-radius numbers (low to mid-teens) are better for making tight, short-radius turns, and are most frequently found in frontside and narrower all-mountain skis. Higher numbers (upper teens and beyond) indicate skis better suited for long-radius turns and fast descents and are most frequently found in all-mountain and powder skis.

Tip: Also called the "shovel," the tip initiates turns. A wide tip (roughly 120mm and higher) floats more easily on soft snow. On hard snow, wider tips matched with narrower waists create a ski best suited for short-radius carved turns.

Tail: The back end of a ski helps finish turns. When carving tight, rapid turns, a wider tail resists sideways skids and sustains speed. (If a tail is too stiff or wide, it may feel locked into the turn and difficult to release.) Others may prefer narrower tails, which are better for wide, sweeping turns. 

Materials

What a ski is made of matters. The gold standard for the core, or center, of the ski is wood because it’s durable, responsive and naturally damp, which means it reduces vibrations. Some less expensive skis have foam cores, which are lightweight but not durable, and are usually relegated to beginner models. Others use plastic in the tips and tails (usually in a honeycomb pattern) to reduce swing weight (the weight distributed in the tip and tail)  and make it less taxing to engage a turn. 

Most skis include layers of structural reinforcements, which are usually fiberglass, carbon or Titanal, an aluminum alloy. 

• Fiberglass laminates add lightweight strength and torsional rigidity to a ski, which make it feel stronger and more stable when it’s on edge while maintaining the wood core’s natural rebound and liveliness. 

• Titanal® aminates reduce vibrations, lending a ski a damp, calm, stuck-to-the-snow feel. While they add power and stability, they also add weight, which can make a ski more taxing and less lively. (Examples include the Head Kore 100 Ti Skis or the K2 Mindbender Ti.

• Carbon laminates are the lightest and are frequently used in backcountry skis, where weight matters most for uphill travel. (The DPS Carbon Kaizen 112 has a carbon laminate).

These laminates can be found in all categories of skis, so it’s important to understand what style of skiing suits you best. For example: Do you like a ski that’s playful and responsive, light and lively? Go with fiberglass. If you want a ski that plows through crud and chunder and is unflappable at speed, you might want a Titanal option.

What Ski Length Do You Need?

The last step in the process is figuring out ski length, which seems like the most straightforward part of the whole process but can be the most difficult. 

“I’ve found that the biggest struggle people have with selecting a proper ski length has to do with the variability of snow conditions,” says Chandler. “A longer ski in powder yields floatability, yet a shorter ski provides more control and maneuverability. Everyone is different, and we cannot predict the weather!” 

Ski Sizing Chart

The length of your ski depends on your height, weight, ability level, skiing style and terrain preferences and the ski’s category and construction. Considering these factors, Chandler says, “will get you in the ballpark of what’s best for you.”

Pick a shorter ski if you:

• Are shorter

• Are lighter than average

• Are beginner or intermediate  

• Like making quicker turns

• Want a maneuverable option for trees or moguls 

Pick a longer ski if you:

• Are taller

• Are heavier than average

• Are more advanced 

• Like making big, long turns

• Are a faster or more aggressive skier

• Want a good option for skiing in open terrain or powder

Height and weight: The taller you are, the longer your skis should be. That’s because height gives you more leverage to drive a ski, and a longer length helps stabilize a higher center of gravity. Weight plays a part, too, because longer skis better distribute mass—especially in soft snow, in which additional surface area adds float. Heavier skiers also have more power to bend the ski, so a longer length will still feel manageable.

Skill level: Experts and more aggressive skier may want a longer ski than beginners or intermediates for better stability at higher speeds. Those who are still learning are better served by a shorter ski that’s easier to turn and won’t feel unwieldy. That said, avoid going too short, as beginners also need stability.

Style preference: When it comes to style preferences, some skiers prefer shorter skis for making quicker turns, while others want to chew up 3,000 vertical feet in a few long arcs. Terrain comes into play here as well, as those who spend their days navigating tight trees may want to go shorter than those who ski in open bowls. 

The category of skis matter, too, as width and length usually increase in tandem. If you are an expert skier who has a quiver of skis for all conditions, for example, you might have a frontside ski that’s 10 cm shorter than your powder ski. Shorter skis are easier to carve on groomers, and longer skis have more surface area for floating through powder. Also, the wider the ski’s waist, the more rocker it’s likely to have in the tip and tail, thus reducing the length of the effective edge and making it “ski shorter.” 

Choosing Bindings

Your downhill ski bindings are critical for keeping you safe. Bindings also impact performance, as they transfer the power from your boot to your ski. We’ll cover the basics below, but read How to Choose Downhill Ski Bindings or How to Choose Backcountry Ski Bindings for more information.

When shopping for skis, you’ll notice that some skis come with bindings and some don't.

• Integrated bindings: Some skis come with bindings pre-mounted. These include expert frontside skis for more precise power transmission or more beginner skis to simplify the purchase. Kids’ downhill skis are often sold with bindings included too.
• Most skis are sold without bindings. If you opt for an all-mountain or powder ski, you’ll typically buy bindings separately. This allows you to match the bindings to your skill level and skiing style.

What to know about DIN settings

The most important thing to know when buying bindings is your DIN number. This number comes from a standardized scale that determines how much force is required to release a ski boot from a binding if you fall. It’s based on your height, weight, ability level, age and boot-sole length. Using the right DIN setting is a matter of safety, especially for less experienced skiers.

Bindings come with different DIN ranges from 0 to 18, and the higher the range, the higher the price. 

• A lower DIN number means the binding will release with less force—ideal for lighter or more cautions skiers. (Kids’ ski bindings have much lower DIN settings than adults’.

• A higher DIN number, the more force it takes to release your boot in a fall. More aggressive or heavier-than-average skiers may need higher settings to keep them locked in. (Usually, only people who weigh 250 pounds or more, or are high-level racers, would need a binding with a DIN higher than 14.) 

When choosing a binding, you’ll want one that has a slightly higher DIN than what you require, especially if you’re a beginner, so you have room to grow. 

Setting and adjusting DIN. There’s not a lot of information on the Internet around how to adjust your own DIN—because you need a certified technician at a ski shop to do it right. Ski technicians can calibrate your ski bindings to ensure proper release when they install your bindings. Learn more about ski shop services at REI. 

Boot compatibility: When buying bindings, make sure they are compatible with your boots. This will only be an issue if you’re buying used bindings, which we don’t recommend for safety reasons. Most new ski bindings are MNC, or multi-norm compatible, which means they accommodate pretty much any kind of boots—GripWalk, Walk to Ride, older alpine boots or alpine touring. 

Don’t be concerned that your bindings will add unwieldy weight to your ski setup. For resort bindings (or resort boots, for that matter), how much they weigh is not much of a factor, as boots and bindings are centered on the ski and therefore won’t affect your experience too much. If you ski aggressively and want your bindings to last, we recommend a higher-end binding. As bindings go up in quality, they tend to go up in weight, too. Heavier bindings contain less plastic and are therefore more durable. The weight will not affect the performance of the ski.

Quick Staff Picks

“The best thing about our job is helping you find the perfect ski for you,” Chandler says. “The second-best thing is getting to test what we sell so that we have the knowledge and experience to guide you.” We’ve polled our knowledgeable team on their favorite picks available at the co-op. 

Beginners: The Rossignol Arcade 80 for both men and women is our pick for those just learning. It’s a supremely forgiving ski that will grow with you as you improve. A honeycomb tip decreases swing weight and makes it easy to engage in a turn, and integrated bindings simplify the purchasing process. 

Groomed Runs: We love the Arcade 84 from Rossignol, which comes in both a men’s and women’s model. It’s lively, snappy and responds instantly to carve perfect arcs down the fall line. It prefers short turns and is versatile for intermediates on up: It will hold your hand and teach you how to carve, or lay trenches for those who know how to wield them. The wood core gives it excellent rebound, and a Titanal reinforcement underfoot adds grip on hardpack.

All Mountain: For those who want the versatility of a ski that can do it all, we like the unisex Nordica Enforcer 99 and the women’s Blizzard Black Pearl 88. The Enforcer’s 99mm waist width is wide enough to float on powder days, but not so wide that it becomes unwieldy on groomers and in bumps. A full wood core is sandwiched between two sheets of vibration-damping metal, giving it a damp and stable feel that plows through crud and breeds confidence. The Black Pearl 88 has been a best-selling ski across both genders for nearly a decade, and its newest iteration is no exception. With a full wood core and strategically placed metal to reduce chatter, it’s a stable platform with a huge sweet spot suitable for intermediates to high experts. 

All-Mountain Freeride: For those who want skis with a little more playfulness, we recommend the unisex Salomon QST 106 Nirvana and the women’s Blizzard Sheeva 10. The QST 106 Nirvana is lightweight—using cork instead of metal to dampen vibration—and lively, with a full wood core eager to pop in and out of turns. The Sheeva 10 combines a wood core with strategically placed metal laminates to offer a playful and versatile ride. Both are best suited for softer snow, making each an ideal one-ski quiver option for Western resorts or a powder ski for East Coasters.

Powder: Whether you’re gearing up for a heli trip or are lucky enough to live where powder falls in buckets, we recommend the Atomic Bent Chetler 120 and the Salomon QST X. Both are unisex skis with wide bodies and plenty of rocker to slash, drift and surf the deep. 

Backcountry: If you’re earning your turns, you’ll need a lightweight ski that still performs well on the descent. We recommend the women’s Blizzard Zero G 96 W or the unisex Blizzard Zero G 105. The Zero G 96 has a full wood core that’s so lightweight the brand did away with carbon entirely, making this model damper and more stable than previous iterations. The Zero G 105 is a little wider and best for powder, and it incorporates carbon reinforcements into the lightweight wood core. (For more on backcountry skis, read our article on How to Buy Backcountry Skis.)

Why Trust This Guide?

Kimberly Beekman has been testing and writing about skis for more than 20 years. The former editor-in-chief of Skiing Magazine and longtime editor of SKI before that, she now freelances from her home in Steamboat Springs, Colo. REI Co-op Member since 1995. Read her tested review of the Blizzard Black Pearl.

Lisa Chandler started participating in snow sports in Colorado at the age of 9. She now lives in Southern California, where she works as the senior action-sports specialist at REI. Her activities also include mountain biking and surfing, and she gets to the snow a few times each season at local mountains, other states and internationally. Being outside is her medicine. REI Co-op Member since 2003.

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