efore you start packing, you'll need to make friends with the bags that carry your gear. The type you use depends on the tour you take.
If you're new to the sport, start off small and expand your collection of bags as need arises.
The key to balance on a loaded bike: Keep gear low and centered on your bike
Choose bags that can be used on a variety of trips
Know Your Bags and Racks
Rear Rack On all but the very shortest day tours, you'll need someplace other than your pockets to store your gear and clothing. On some tours, tour operators or support vehicles shoulder the load. But sooner or later, you may want to carry your gear with you as you ride. At this point, you'll need a rack.
Bike racks provide the rigid frameworks upon which many of the above bags are attached. They hold the bike bags out away from your legs and the moving parts of the bicycle. Rear racks are especially popular among touring cyclists, since they can be used to store moderate to large amounts of gear in one of the most efficient and safe positions on the bike—low over the rear wheel, centered side to side.
Front Racks Like rear racks, front racks also provide a framework upon which bike bags can be hung. They're less popular than rear racks because they add weight to the bicycle's front wheel, which can affect steering and bike control. Front racks are typically used only on tours that require lots of storage space.
Unlike rear racks, front racks come in two different styles: standards (which look and function just like rear racks) and "low riders" (which allow you to mount bike bags lower on your front wheel). The benefit of a standard front rack is that it offers storage space up on top of the rack as well as on the sides. The benefit of the low-rider style (which does not have a top shelf) is added stability and control. Low-rider racks can actually increase the overall stability of your bicycle by allowing you to spread out your equipment load and counter balance weight on the rear rack.
Saddlebags These small-capacity bags fit directly under your saddle. They hold small items (tool kits, money, tire levers) in an easy-to-reach place, creating minimal wind resistance.
Positives:They provide quick, easy access to items such as tool kits, money and credit cards. On short day trips, they often provide just enough storage space for bare essentials.
Negatives:Saddlebags have limited capacities.
Handlebar Bags These bags attach to your handlebars using clamps or straps. They're perfect for carrying small items (maps, snacks, camera, riding gloves) in a convenient place.
Positives:Most handlebar bags are easy to attach and remove. Some even come with shoulder straps for use when you're off your bike. Many have convenient see-through map cases so you can refer to your maps while riding.
Negatives:Handlebar bags rest high on your steering column, which can affect your steering or control, especially when the bag is fully loaded. Most cyclists choose small models and fill them only partially. NOTE: Ill-fitting handlebar bags may interfere with shifting or braking.
Panniers Panniers (the French word for "baskets") attach to the sides of bike racks (which must be purchased separately). They're typically sold in pairs, so you can balance your equipment loads on either side of the wheel. Panniers attach to racks using a system of hooks and springs (or webbing). They tend to be the largest, most spacious bags available for touring. Capacities range from 800 to 3200 cubic inches per pair. Some models are waterproof and are highly regarded by seasoned tourists.
Positives:Panniers (rear and front) hold relatively large amounts of gear, and they hold it low over your bicycle wheels which makes riding and balancing your loaded bike easier. Panniers are also versatile. Many models can be attached to both front and rear bike racks.
Negatives:Panniers cannot be accessed while riding. When fully packed, they can increase wind resistance noticeably (especially front panniers) and they can affect steering and control (see the article
Packing for a Tourfor more details). Large panniers can be difficult to keep organized. Look for helpful features like dividers, pockets and compartments.
Rack Trunks These roomy storage bags attach to the top shelves of bicycle racks (usually rear racks). They're typically used to hold long, large or awkwardly shaped gear items that won't fit easily into panniers. Some models offer a shoulder strap, useful for carrying valuable gear (camera, CD player) with you when you leave the bike.
Positives:Rack trunks can be used by themselves on shorter tours, or with panniers on long trips. When used on the rear rack, rack trunks can hold a lot of gear without adding a lot of wind-resistance.
Negatives:Rack trunks can't be accessed while riding. Also, some may be too small to hold large items (like tents or sleeping pads) that don't fit into panniers easily. It's often easier to strap such items directly to the top shelf of your rear rack than to fit them into a rack trunk.
A Note on Trailers
Which is better for carrying your gear: panniers or one-wheeled trailers like the B.O.B. Yak? It's a long-running debate. Each has its conveniences and drawbacks, and the choice is a matter of personal preference. Trailers come in a variety of styles and sizes and have multiple uses.
Positives:
They come in handy when your equipment load is large or bulky, or when your bike doesn't accept panniers.
They're a better bet when mountain touring along singletrack. They track well and, unlike panniers, aren't a magnet for shrubs and trees.
Some models are made specifically for children.
They disengage for non load biking (making them popular among touring mountain bikers).
They attach to almost any kind of bike.
They keep weight loads extremely low to the ground.
Negatives:
Two-wheeled trailers increase your wind-resistance and rolling resistance. (B.O.B. trailers have less wind and rolling resistance than two-wheeled trailers.)
Gear may not be as accessible as with panniers.
They can make cycling more difficult, especially on highly variable terrain.
They require some practice before you feel comfortable with them.
Choosing the Right Bags
If you anticipate a variety in your tours, develop a system of bike bags that can be adapted to the tour. Start out slowly, purchasing one or two bags for your first few trips, then add more storage options as your plans get more adventurous. When deciding what kinds of bike bags to buy, consider the following:
Capacity Start out with small bike bags (like handlebar bags or small to medium-size panniers) for day trips and light loads, then purchase larger options (like rack trunks or larger panniers) when you start needing more space. If you buy large bags right off the bat, they won't be able to hold small loads securely and they'll be cumbersome on the road. Your small bags will still come in handy on longer tours.
Adjustability Look for bags that adjust to handle different gear loads. Features like expandable pockets, extending collars and compression straps will allow you to use the same bags to handle a variety of trips.
Accessibility How many openings does a bag offer? How large are those openings? These are important considerations. Look for features that help keep gear organized inside, such as dividers, pockets, compartments and internal stiffeners (which help keep large bags open while you pack them). Purchase at least one small bag that's easy to reach as you ride. Such a bag gives you easy access to snacks and maps without forcing you to stop and dig through larger bags.
Balance What's the key to maintaining good balance with a full gear load? Keep your gear as low and as centered as possible on your bike. Choose bike bags that make this easy, especially if you have lots of gear to carry. This doesn't mean you can't buy one or two bags that sit higher on your bike. Just focus most of your storage space down low and balance it as much as possible from side to side.
Water-resistance Most modern bike bags are made out of coated nylon to protect gear from moisture. But the specific design of a bag can also affect water-resistance. Check all openings to make sure they can be closed securely, and that all zippered pockets are protected by rain flaps. Fewer openings mean less risk of leakage.
Special features Look for useful extras like water-bottle pockets, removable fanny packs, mesh pockets for holding wet gear, clear plastic map pockets and so on. Also look for bike bags that can be converted into daypacks, book bags or briefcases for when you reach your destination.
Secure attachment to your rack Make sure your bike bags are easy to attach and tighten down. Be certain they don't get in the way, even when fully loaded.
Touring: Route-Planning Basics
fter you've decided what kind of tour you would like, the next step is to select an appropriate route to follow. The route you choose will determine—to a large degree—the challenges you face, the obstacles you encounter and the experiences you enjoy along the way.
Take time to plan your first few tours in detail.
Don't plan trips that exceed your physical limits.
Loop trips are best.
Not every cycling route is suitable for every rider. Try to find out all you can about your route before you leave home. Plan for the following in your research:
Avoid route hazards like high-traffic areas, long tunnels or narrow bridges.
Stay on track and avoid route mix-ups and delays.
Avoid the things that make touring hard, like difficult terrain or poorly maintained roads.
Save money by budgeting more effectively and avoiding unplanned expenses.
Reduce stress by limiting the number of on-tour decisions you have to make.
Design a Specific Route
It's time to narrow down your search to a general geographic region or two (based on the interests and skills of your touring companions). Once you've done this, you'll be ready to search for a specific route within that area.
Touring cyclists disagree on how much route planning should be done prior to the beginning of a tour. Some believe that plans should be as detailed as possible (to cut down on confusion and hassles along the way). Others prefer the freedom of making some decisions as they ride.
Neither approach is more "correct" than the other. But if you're just getting started in bike touring, develop relatively detailed route plans for your first several tours. This will reduce problems out on the road and let you develop basic touring skills without much decision-making along the way. Street-by-street, turn-by-turn plans are rarely necessary, especially on short tours in familiar surroundings.
Decide on an Overall Length
If you're a beginner, start out with short, easy trips close to home. This will help you get used to the basic challenges of touring in relative safety. Use such tries to decide if you really enjoy touring before you plan any major excursions or spend too much money. You'll have plenty of time to get more adventurous after you have a few tours under your belt.
A number of things can affect how fast you and your riding companions can travel during a tour—the wind, the weather, the terrain and the road conditions are just a few. Cyclists ride at different speeds, too. So coming up with a specific number of miles to cover during a trip can be difficult.
To avoid mileage problems, plan conservatively. Base your daily distance estimates on the skills and the physical abilities of the group's least experienced cyclist(s). Include time for rest and relaxation in your plans (both are important for safe, comfortable touring) as well as time for non cycling activities like exploring, sightseeing, eating and so on.
Long trips can be great fun, as long as everyone knows their own limitations and stays within them. Just remember: Attempting to cover too much ground can result in sore muscles, bad moods and missed opportunities along the way.
Decide on a Basic Route Shape
Bike touring routes typically fall into one of three different "shape" categories. The shape of a bike touring route can have a significant effect on how long a tour takes, how much it costs and how much logistical effort it requires. Cyclists typically choose between the three options based on the time and the transportation available to them.
Point-to-Point These tours start at Point A and end at Point B. Positives: They allow riders to cover new terrain during their entire trip. Negatives: They require return transportation. Cars can either be shuttled into position before the ride, or a driver who's not riding can drop riders off or pick them up.
Out-and-Back This type of tour starts at Point A, travels to Point B, then returns along the same route. Positives: No additional transportation is needed, since riders start and finish in the same place. Negatives: Most or all of the route is repeated on the return trip. Don't forget: Downhills and tailwinds in one direction become uphills and headwinds in the other.
Loop Loop routes start at Point A and end at Point A, but they do not overlap during the trip. Positives: Loop routes combine the positives of the two types listed above. Negatives: Good loop routes are usually harder to plan than other types.
Touring: Common Challenges
n many ways, bicycle touring is just like regular bike riding—it involves the same basic motions and the same basic skills. After a few hours on the road, though, some differences become apparent.
Loaded bikes are harder to stop, harder to keep stable.
Give your knees a break by "spinning" in a higher gear.
Water is life—stay well hydrated.
Know the Difference
With touring, the added load and extended time in the saddle require an adjustment in your riding style. Keep the following facts in mind each time you tour:
Weight Differences
Loaded touring bikes weigh more than unloaded bikes and they tend to be less aerodynamic. This makes them harder to pedal and usually results in a slower pace.
Heavier bikes take longer to stop than non-loaded bikes. You may have to start braking earlier than normal, especially on downhills and in rainy conditions.
Heavier bikes are also harder to get up hills. You'll have to shift down earlier (and to a lower gear) than you would with an unloaded bike to keep your momentum and pedal speed going.
Control Differences
Loaded bicycles tend to have higher centers of gravity than unloaded bikes, which can make them less stable in turns.
Loaded bikes can be less responsive than unloaded bikes, especially when gear is stored on the front wheel.
Loaded bicycles create more wind resistance than unloaded bikes. They're also more susceptible to sudden gusts and side winds.
Loaded bikes are more susceptible to damage from bumps and jolts than unloaded bikes. To protect your wheels from impact damage, lift off the saddle when you hit bumps or potholes (standing up slightly will allow you to absorb some of the downward force with your knees).
Basic Touring Hints
Starting Out From a full stop, start in a low gear (you'll have to remember to downshift each time you come to a stop). Starting in too high a gear will waste energy and may lead to strained muscles. Shift to higher gears smoothly and quickly as you gain momentum. Shifting up slowly can waste energy.
Maintain an Efficient Cadence The rate at which you spin your pedals can affect your riding performance. Pedaling with a quick rhythm, or "cadence," is usually easier on a rider's legs and lungs than pushing harder on the pedals in a higher gear. "Spinning" (riding with a slightly higher cadence) takes a period of adjustment for most cyclists. But in the long run, it makes cycling easier, especially on your knees.
The key to spinning effectively is practice. Try it in short doses at first, shifting down one gear as you ride along, then spinning faster to maintain your speed for a minute or two before shifting back up. It may feel awkward at first, but with practice it becomes much more natural. Keep in mind that it's possible to spin too fast (though for most people this is not a problem). If you find yourself bouncing up and down on your saddle as you pedal, shift up one gear and continue.
Maintain a Constant Pace It takes less energy to pedal at a constant speed over a given distance than it does to vary your speed over the same distance. This is why cars get better gas mileage on the highway than they do in the city. Find (and stick to) a speed that you can maintain comfortably for as long as you plan to ride each day. Some change in speed is unavoidable due to terrain and other riding conditions. But in general, try to avoid speeding up and slowing down.
Staying Comfortable
The key to riding comfortably mile after mile, day after day, is to keep up with your body's basic needs. The easiest approach: Address them frequently throughout the day.
Water To stay comfortable and energized while you ride, stay well hydrated. It's much easier to maintain a hydrated state than it is to rehydrate, so drink prior to starting out in the morning and frequently throughout each ride (roughly every 20 minutes). Thirst is a poor indicator of dehydration, so don't wait for it. Most cyclists prefer to drink water, but electrolyte replacement drinks are also popular since they replenish vital electrolytes and cut down on your body's recovery time.
Food Bike touring can burn calories quickly. To stay energized, keep your internal engines fueled while touring. Eat healthy, well-balanced meals. On long pedaling days, snack often to keep fuel reserves up. The best cycling snacks? High-energy, low-bulk foods high in carbohydrates such as energy bars, dried fruits and chocolate.
Rest Stick to a moderate pace with frequent rest breaks. If you're new to touring, stop every couple of hours for a few minutes to stretch out and take a breather. Keep your rest breaks short (five minutes or so) to avoid lactic acid build up. Rest after all major meals to let food digest properly.
Protection From Exposure React promptly to temperature changes, both internal and external. Alter your clothing layers throughout the day to stay comfortable while you ride. Protect exposed areas like your head, eyes and hands, especially on chilly downhills or in cold/windy weather. Wear sunscreen and some form of eye protection to guard against debris and sun exposure, especially in high elevations where the sun is strong and the air is thin.
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efore you start packing, you'll need to make friends with the bags that carry your gear. The type you use depends on the tour you take.
Rear Rack
Front Racks
Saddlebags
Handlebar Bags
Panniers
Rack Trunks
fter you've decided what kind of tour you would like, the next step is to select an appropriate route to follow. The route you choose will determine—to a large degree—the challenges you face, the obstacles you encounter and the experiences you enjoy along the way.
n many ways, bicycle touring is just like regular bike riding—it involves the same basic motions and the same basic skills. After a few hours on the road, though, some differences become apparent.
With touring, the added load and extended time in the saddle require an adjustment in your riding style. Keep the following facts in mind each time you tour:
