Climbing ice can be rough on your body — so keeping it covered and protected is essential. In REI's 62 years of climbing, we've picked up a few ideas on the subject!
Read on for our clothing suggestions.
Boots
Plastic boots offer warmth and dryness that you can't get from leather boots. Plastic boots have molded notches in the toes and heels to allow attachment of step-in crampons, as well. Their rigid structures make them well suited to vertical ice as they provide the support your feet need for front-pointing. For cold, steep, technical climbs, they are usually the preferred way to go.
Leather mountaineering boots, on the other hand, allow ankles to flex, which is more comfortable for extended French technique used in alpine ice climbing.
Mountaineering boots with molded plastic midsoles and grooves in toes and heels for step-in crampons are ideal for moderate ice climbs in milder weather. They can also be paired with overboots for cold weather climbing.
Having a pair of each is ideal. But if you must choose only one pair of boots, go with plastic for winter or high altitude climbs. Get leather boots if you'll be doing mostly summer climbing. Also consider renting plastic boots if you're not sure. Several REI store locations have them available for rent.
Gaiters
Gaiters are a must for keeping your feet dry in snow and ice. Those with rugged materials such as Cordura® nylon are designed to withstand the abrasion of ice and rock. Gore-Tex® gaiters offer waterproof protection for all-day exposure to wet conditions. Snow gaiters have neoprene straps underfoot that adjust to fit your boots and provide a tight seal.
Outerwear
Ice climbing involves a lot of reaching overhead, so you want clothing that isn't going to ride up on your arms or waist. Keeping your torso covered can be accomplished by wearing bibs and/or a longer, parka-length jacket. A jacket with a storm skirt or powder skirt inside will also keep loose snow and ice out of your clothes. Some jackets, such as The North Face Mountain Jacket are designed with extra-long sleeves to keep your arms covered as you reach up.
Select outerwear made of abrasion-resistant materials, such as pants with knee patches and jackets with elbow and shoulder reinforcements. And go for waterproof/breathable fabrics. These allow your body vapor to escape as you work hard, and prevent snow and rain from getting in.
Gloves
Finding gloves that will keep your hands dry (or at least warm) and allow you dexterity for placing or removing ice screws is essential. Without them, getting an ice screw off your harness and into the ice can be an exercise in frustration! Ideal gloves for ice climbing have gauntlets to keep the snow out of your sleeves and textured palms and fingers for traction on ice tools. They also have "keeper cords" that secure around your wrists to prevent losing them mid-climb if you remove them. Many have padded backings that protect your hands from bashing against the ice, and rugged fabrics that can withstand the abrasion dished out by an alpine wall.
How to Choose Hiking Footwear
Choosing the right footwear may be the most important decision you make as a beginning backpacker. The shoes or boots you choose must be comfortable, durable and protective, mile after mile.
Select the appropriate boots or shoes based on your planned activity. Mountaineering boots must be much heavier and more substantial than day-hiking boots.
Learn about the materials used in hiking footwear. Do you need heavy, waterproof materials or lighter-weight, breathable ones?
Consider how boot construction will affect your activity.
Get your feet measured properly and then try on the boots with the appropriate socks. Take a test walk on a flat surface and then an incline and check for any slippage or discomfort.
What Kinds of Trips do You Have Planned?
Outdoor footwear can be divided into 3 basic categories. Begin your search for the right boots or shoes by focusing on the category that best matches your hiking or backpacking plans.
Lightweight hiking—These boots (and trail shoes) are designed for day hiking and very short overnight trips only. They stress comfort, cushioning and breathability. As a result, they are less supportive and durable than the options below.
Midweight hiking/backpacking—These boots are designed for on- and off-trail hiking with light to moderate backpacking loads. They are more durable and supportive than lightweight hiking boots, but they are still intended primarily for short to moderate trips over easy to moderate terrain.
Extended backpacking/mountaineering—These boots are designed for on- and off-trail hiking with moderate to heavy backpacking loads. They are designed with multi-day trips in mind. Durable and supportive, they provide a high degree of ankle and foot protection. Some of these models are designed specifically for rough terrain with heavy backpacking loads. They offer the very best in durability, support and protection. Some are stiff enough to accept crampons for snow/ice travel.
Choose the Appropriate Materials
The materials used in a given boot or trail shoe will affect its weight, breathability, durability and water resistance. Since boots made of different fabrics can be very similar in performance, however, personal preference is often the key when choosing between them.
Nylon mesh and split-grain leather—Nylon and split-grain leather boots are lightweight and breathable, which makes them perfect for warm to moderate weather use and short to moderate backpacking trips. They tend to be softer on your feet, they take less time to break in, and they are almost always lighter than full-grain leather boots. They also cost less. Unfortunately, nylon/split-grain boots tend to be less water resistant than full-grain leather boots (although styles that feature waterproof liners can be just as watertight, if not more so).
Full-grain leather—Full-grain leather is extremely water resistant, durable and supportive (more so than split-grain leather or nylon). It's used primarily in backpacking boots designed for extended trips, heavy loads and hard terrain. Not as lightweight or breathable as nylon/split grain combinations, but it typically lasts far longer. Full-grain leather usually requires a break-in period.
Waterproof barriers—Lightweight, waterproof barriers (like Gore-Tex®) are built into many hiking boots to enhance their water resistance. These barriers are available in a variety of boot styles, from lightweight hikers to extended backpacking models. Waterproof performance depends upon the type of barrier used, the materials protecting it and how well the boots are taken care of. If cared for correctly, these waterproof barriers often last longer than the boots themselves.
NOTE: Be careful when shopping for backpacking boots to differentiate between the following:
Waterproof leather—This is leather that's been treated to be waterproof. It's great stuff to have, but remember —leaks may still occur, if the boot pieces are not put together well.
Waterproof (or watertight) construction—This refers to construction techniques designed to keep leaks out (like seam-sealing, special stitches and precise designs). Water-tight construction is typically combined with waterproofed materials.
Waterproof liners—These are the special waterproof barriers described above that are built right into the boot to protect you from whatever leaks make it through the boot materials. These liners typically do a great job of keeping you dry. But remember, Gore-Tex and others waterproof liners don't last forever.
TIP: The waterproofness (or water resistance) of your hiking boots depends significantly on how well you treat them. Be sure to follow all care instructions that come with your boots so that they can perform well and last a long time.
Pay Attention to Construction
Upper construction The more seams a boot or shoe has, the higher the risk for leaks and blow-outs. Leaking occurs when water seeps through the needle holes or spaces between the boot panels. Blow-outs occur when general wear, repeated flexing or a snag causes a stitch to break and 2 panels to separate. In general, the fewer seams an upper has, the more water-resistant and more durable it will be.
The connection between the upper and the sole Hiking boot soles are either stitched or cemented to the rest of the boot.
Stitching—Durable, reliable, can be undone to replace the sole once it has worn down. Different techniques (Littleway, Norwegian) result in different strengths and stiffnesses.
Cementing—Faster and less expensive than stitching, resulting in lower boot prices. It hasn't always been reliable, but most modern methods produce durable, lost-lasting bonds (depending upon the process and specific glue used). Most cemented boots can now be resoled just like traditional stitch-down models.
Get the Right Fit
Once you've narrowed down your options to a handful of boots or shoes, the best way to decide between them is to try them on and give them a test drive.
Read more about boot fitting.
Boot Care Basics
Keep your boots and trail shoes clean between uses by brushing off dirt and mud as both can ruin leather over time. Most fabric boots and shoes can be washed on the outside with mild soap and water. Avoid using detergent.
If your boots get drenched, stuff them loosely with newspaper and dry them in a warm place. Never rush the drying process by placing them near a fire, heater or other heat source.
Boots need to be conditioned from time to time, especially if they're made of leather. This is true whether you hike in dry, hot conditions or wet, temperate ones.
Plastic boots offer warmth and dryness that you can't get from leather boots. Plastic boots have molded notches in the toes and heels to allow attachment of step-in crampons, as well. Their rigid structures make them well suited to vertical ice as they provide the support your feet need for front-pointing. For cold, steep, technical climbs, they are usually the preferred way to go.
Mountaineering boots with molded plastic midsoles and grooves in toes and heels for step-in crampons are ideal for moderate ice climbs in milder weather. They can also be paired with overboots for cold weather climbing.
Gaiters are a must for keeping your feet dry in snow and ice. Those with rugged materials such as Cordura® nylon are designed to withstand the abrasion of ice and rock. Gore-Tex® gaiters offer waterproof protection for all-day exposure to wet conditions. Snow gaiters have neoprene straps underfoot that adjust to fit your boots and provide a tight seal.
Ice climbing involves a lot of reaching overhead, so you want clothing that isn't going to ride up on your arms or waist. Keeping your torso covered can be accomplished by wearing bibs and/or a longer, parka-length jacket. A jacket with a storm skirt or powder skirt inside will also keep loose snow and ice out of your clothes. Some jackets, such as The North Face Mountain Jacket are designed with extra-long sleeves to keep your arms covered as you reach up.
Finding gloves that will keep your hands dry (or at least warm) and allow you dexterity for placing or removing ice screws is essential. Without them, getting an ice screw off your harness and into the ice can be an exercise in frustration! Ideal gloves for ice climbing have gauntlets to keep the snow out of your sleeves and textured palms and fingers for traction on ice tools. They also have "keeper cords" that secure around your wrists to prevent losing them mid-climb if you remove them. Many have padded backings that protect your hands from bashing against the ice, and rugged fabrics that can withstand the abrasion dished out by an alpine wall.
