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Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device 8.9 - 10.5mm

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Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device 8.9 - 10.5mm

$49.95

(6)

Item # 809472

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The Mammut Smart Alpine belay device employs all the great belay-assist features of the original Smart device, but can also be used with half or twin ropes for trips up alpine peaks.

Smart Alpine belay device has the same non-mechanical design of the original Smart device that pinches the rope during a fall to make catching and holding falls easy
Extended lever lets you easily release the pinching of the rope when you need to lower a climber
Smart Alpine device can also be used in auto-block mode to allow the lead climber to belay 1 or 2 seconding climbers directly from the anchor
Ropes feed through the belay device quickly and easily while belaying a leader
Accepts a wide range of ropes, from 8.9mm - 10.5mm in diameter
The Mammut Smart Alpine belay device is also suitable for rappelling

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Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device 8.9 - 10.5mm Customer Reviews

REVIEW SNAPSHOT®

by PowerReviews

Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device 8.9 - 10.5mm

3.8

(based on 6 reviews)

67%

of respondents would recommend this to a friend.

Pros

Cons

Best Uses

Climbing (7)

- Reviewer Profile:
- Avid climber (5)
- Was this a gift?:
- No (6)

Reviewed by 6 customers

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Displaying reviews 1-6

Apr

2011

(3 of 3 customers found this review helpful)

3.0

High Maintenance

By ROCKofGLOVE

from SoCAL

About Me Avid Climber

See all my reviews

Pros

Does Everything

Cons

Fastidious

Best Uses

Multipitch

Comments about Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device 8.9 - 10.5mm:

I met a Mammut rep at a Las Vegas climbing expo who really sold me on this; he said it's the only belay device he uses now, it does everything, and well. So I buy one and play with it at home. It's one of those belay devices that REQUIRES a HMS carabiner. I take it to Joshua Tree, I lead pitch one, autoblocks great, smooth, no stick. Switch to belay, and it becomes a headache. Belay carabiners usually don't stay where they're supposed to, and it either slides down the gate side, getting caught on the screw gate, dangerous; or slides down the spine, and if the carabiner flips, it crossloads with the spine becoming the rope bearing surface, and the auto-assist lock-off feature becomes less effective to maybe even non-existent, dangerous. Double rope rappels are more of a strain, too (leverage/small window), but auto locks off, a trade-off. So I'm really trying to make it work, using different carabiners, adjusting my belay style, but like any other high-maintenance relationship, it's hard.

Comment on this review

Feb

2011

(2 of 4 customers found this review helpful)

2.0

so so belay device..

By toclimb

from highlands ranch, colorado

About Me Avid Climber

See all my reviews

Pros

Cons

To wide for locking biner

Best Uses

Outdoor climbing

Comments about Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device 8.9 - 10.5mm:

have been waiting in the wings for mammut to drop this new device. definitely has more use that just there smart belay device. liked that it had a semi locking feature that the other devices(reverso and atc guide) didn't have. in the gym it seemed to work fairly well, even with ropes that get rode hard and put away wet. the true test was taking it out and using it for it's intended purpose..I just came back from an ice climbing trip to lake willoughby. it belayed ok but I didn't think it was as smooth in the auto locking position as my atc guide. the true opportunity came when I dropped my large locking carabiner from the top of the climb at the rap station. I thought no worries I have other locking biners. low and behold none of them were wide enough to fit through the slots where you feed the rope. this isn't the case with the atc guide and the reverso. in fact if it came down to it you could run two small biners opposite and opposed to make it down with a guide or a reverso. not the case with the smart alpine.. save the dollars and by the later.

Comment on this review

Dec

2011

(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

4.0

Best with a large carabiner

By mvk

from Atlanta, GA

About Me Avid Climber

See all my reviews

Pros

Assisted locking
Easy To learn
Intuitive
Quick feeding slack
Simple

Cons

Requires large carabiner
Too Big

Best Uses

Indoor climbing
Lead belaying
Long Climbs
Outdoor climbing
Top Rope Belaying

Comments about Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device 8.9 - 10.5mm:

I was trying to use it with the Petzl Am'D carabiner and a BD Rocklock, which didn't work very well. The rope was sometimes snagging because the carabiner would rotate and pinch it in a way that was very hard to release.
I gave another shot this time using the Mammut Smart Element HMS carabiner and now everything works great. I haven't experienced any cross-loading or pinching on the rope. It is easy to feed slack, and it makes belaying slow climbers very easy. It works well with thick ropes. With thin ropes, I have to pull down the break hand to help the locking. It will still auto-lock. It is just that the rope slowly slides after the lock. Note: Like in any autoblock device, always keep your break hand on the rope.
If you don't need to belay with double ropes or to rappel on double strands, I would suggest to buy the single slot version. It is smaller, less expensive and it should work well with any locking carabiner. Although I'd still recommend buying a carabiner that will prevent cross-loading.

Comment on this review

Nov

2011

(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

4.0

Easy To Use And Works Great.

By metzrus4

from Bellevue, WA

About Me Avid Climber

See all my reviews

Pros

Quick to open
Simple

Cons

Best Uses

Indoor climbing
Outdoor climbing

Comments about Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device 8.9 - 10.5mm:

I purchased this to use at the climbing gym where I was looking for a device that would do more of the braking on its own vs an ATC. As with any belay device, you still need to pay attention to what you are doing. However, it is very easy to learn to use the smart alpine belay device and it makes it posssible to belay a buddy when your arms are tired from climbing or when the climber outweighs the belayer.

Comment on this review

Jul

2011

(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

5.0

best device out there

By a climber

from east coast

About Me Avid Climber

See all my reviews

Pros

Cons

Best Uses

Comments about Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device 8.9 - 10.5mm:

I have used the smaller double rope variant (7.5-9.5mm) for a little while now and must say it does everything a belay device should and more. Its light, cheap and simple. Locks as reliably as a grigri AND can handle a double rope rappel or belay for second or leader. The motions are more natural than a grigri, and the lowering safer since both hands can be on the brake strand.

There is a slight learning curve to feeding out slack as there is with a grigri, but if you cant figure it out in 5 minutes, I am not sure you should be belaying.

Comment on this review

Jan

2012

5.0

The

By Coloclymer

from Colorado, where else

About Me Competitive Climber

See all my reviews

Pros

Better than ATC Guide
Better than GRi GRI
Better than Reverso

Cons

Complicated at first
Costs more than ATC GUIDE
Requires large locker

Best Uses

Indoor climbing
Long Climbs
Outdoor climbing
Trad alpine

Comments about Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device 8.9 - 10.5mm:

this is for the 9.2-10.5mm version ...

the alpine smart is mammuts new assisted locking device, based on the smart, it is different from that and the gri gri/cinch in that there are 2 channels, so you can do 2 strand rappels with it

ive had the alpine smart since the start of aug 2011, having used it ~2-3 days a week since then on everything from multipitch, trad/sport cragging, multi rappels, etc ... i bought it in canmore for ~40$ canadian ... i am neither sponsored by dead elephant, or a fanboy of their gear, the device was not provided by those dead elephants either

notes

- assisted locking ... the locking is basically automatic, though you should keep your brake hand on ... the catch is no different from a gri gri/cinch that ive noticed ... supposedly theres a softer catch due to some allowed slip, but i have not noticed this ... i have fallen and caught falls on trad and sport on it

- feeding out rope ... this is good and bad ... if you have a 9.8 or less mm rope, the smart works wonderfully, i find it easier to feed than my 1st gen gri gri ... however on stiffer or thicker ropes, especially beyond 10mm, feeding can be a bit of a pain ... the way you feed it is by pulling the handle away from yr body and pulling the rope through ...i find more intuitive than a gri gri as yr hand is basically on the brake the entire time ... you rope MUST be flaked out or layed out smoothly, with my ATC guide i could get away ganking the rope through even if its a bit tangled ... cant do that with this device.

I have also found that if you belay with your right hand's palm up you can lift up on the lever with you pinky and ring finger allowing easy pay out of rope. This works better than the palm down, thumb on the bump design.

- taking in rope ... same feel as an atc ...

- autoblock ... similar to guide or reverso .. however read the instructions as the setup is not exactly the same ... same isues with rope diameter as with feeding out the rope ... lowering off autoblock is still a bit of a pain, but the handle does give more leverage ... backup with a munter.

- weight ... lighter than a gri gri ... it is bulkier than an ATC

- biner ... use a wide HMS biner ... small lockers will cause feeding issues ... also take care that the biner does not turn narrow side up on you ... that can be a pain to correct with the alpine smart ...

- rapelling ... 2 words ... it sucks ... it is not as intuitive to rappel as with an ATC, definately jerkier ... what you basically need to do if you have shorter arms like me is bring yr elbow to your body and push the handle up/out ... and find the sweet spot ... forget about rapelling on stiffer 10mm+ ropes while the device is rigged in its normal set-up.
- However, you have the option of rigging it backwards and rapping very smoothly. Be careful in this mode because it has less friction than an ATC. This fixes the complaints that people have about long double rope raps. (This is listed in the instructions and is recommended by Mammut, not made up)
... rappels better with thinner ropes ... also note that you CANNOT rappel on say a 9.5mm and a 8mm tag line without going single line rap

- lowering ... not bad ... takes a try or two to get used to but no worse than my gri gri IMO

- price ... depends how you look at it ... for a gri gri substitute its cheap at half the price ... for an ATC replacement its expensive at 1.5-2x more

** the bottom line .***

Awesome Device!!!

Because its ASSISTED LOCKING ... there have been incidents where "experienced" climbers have dropped people ... i dont want to become a dropper or droppee ...

in areas with rockfall issues such as the rockies, having the belayer always using the smart, and the leader top belaying with a guide in autoblock effectively takes care of the belayer knocked out by rock possibility

for sport climbing with thinner ropes, its quite wonderful, and as good as a gri gri IMO for those hang doggers and repeated whippers

for trad it saves using a prussik when cleaning on rappels

...at the end of the day i consider it an adequate gri gri substitue for cragging, and a better more useful multipitch tool than an ATC guide or Reverso because of the auto locking feature with only a small price and weight disadvantage.

if you do use it ... use it with a big binner and a supple < 10mm rope ... preferably < 9,8mm.

Mammut sells a biner designed for this device. Attache or William biners work great as well.

thanks,

Coloclymer