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Item 767290
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REVIEW SNAPSHOT®
by PowerReviewsPros
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Reviewed by 12 customers
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Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
Very nice cam with usual bomber Metolius quality. Sizes consistent with other Metolius cams, so that's a plus if you're used to their other gear. Flexible stem is handy.
My gripes are that one of mine became a fixed piece when a trigger wire (made of kevlar) became detached, and that the range finder can trick you into setting them a bit too tight (note that the green range exists all the way to when the cam lobes are completely bottomed out) if you're new to trad climbing. Other, more experienced types will probably be comfortable placing them without paying attention to the "range finder".
That said, they're a nice piece, and after reporting my loss to Metolius due to the trigger failure I had a new one sent to me right away, as there was an initial batch that was faulty. Since that incident, I've had no problem with them and I rely on them regularly.
Pros
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
the first master cam i bought was the #2 since the #2 tcu was a favorite part of my alpine rack. i was hoping the small amount of extra weight would be made up for with the stability of a 4 lobed cam.
when i first got the cam home and compared it to my other cams i was a little scared because of the narrow cam lobes.
the first time i placed the piece i was excited with how solid it felt. but the small lobes still freaked me out a bit. anyway, to make a long story short, i've taken a few falls on mastercams and i love them. they are lightweight, study and hold falls well.
i'd recommend these for free climbing over a tcu. yes, the tcu a bit lighter, but i thing the benefits far outweigh the small weight increase.
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
These are great cams and I prefer certain sizes over others...
To start, I have been using the blue and yellow master cams for a while now. I like the master cam at this small size because they seem a little more stable than the TCU and Power cam.
Once I reach the orange and red sizes I go back to the power cam. I like having four lobes and feel as though these sizes are stable enough without needing the master cam design.
Things get tricky at black and green. I just purchased these two master cams and am very excited about them. The smaller sized master cams are very comparable in flexibility to the power cams. After reaching the larger sizes though it's clear that the elongated single stem proves valuable. You can shake the bigger sizes back and forth and they wiggle nicely, that is not the case for other, stiffer, TCU and Power cam. I'm hoping this will result it long life and minimal walking in placements.
Other than that they are lighter than BD camalots (I have a full set of those) but heavier than the old metolius pieces. The kevlar is great because it doesn't squeak and require lubrication like traditional cams do!
Altogether this is a great piece of gear and I would strongly recommend the:
Blue #1
Yellow #2
Black #5
Green #6
Pros
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
Direct comparison to aliens without the bad reputation. I have 0-4 and use them all the time. 4 is about the same size as a .75 c4 but a bit narrower in the head. Couldnt be happier with these cams!
Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
For straight-on splitters these are excellent. The yellow is my go-to cam for tight fingers. They are especially good in sandstone and Josh manzonite. However, they don't fare so well in your typical polished Yosemite pin scars. A TCU still can't be beat.
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
I love these cams! I bought one a few weeks ago and have thrown down for three more since. I haven't tried any bigger than size 6 (and don't know if they've came out yet) but the ones I have used are great. Just a hair wider than the TCUs, and the single stem allows for more durablity than the power cams.
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
These are the best small cams on the market. Dubbed as the "alien killer" these have been proven from the granite domes of Yosemite to the soft sandstone of Zion. I use sizes 00-3 and love them. The larger size can become floppy and gunked up if not lubricated properly. Do to their small headwidth these cams will fit where no others will. Four cam units are the way to go.
Pros
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Best Uses
Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
Fantastic product on so many levels. They're extremely light on a rack which makes them great for multipitch routes, where you start to feel the weight by the latter pitches. Very flexible cams. The small lobes are fantastic when you have narrow placements, and even though they seem a little hairball at first, you learn to trust them after a few falls on them (Gotta love that orange). My only issues with this cam is that for some reason i struggle when it comes to cleaning them moreso then other brands. i find C4's so simple to remove, and sometimes i'm fiddling with these for a few minutes, trying to get em out. and secondly, the trigger is a little stiffer for me then on other brands. While this isn't a huge deal, i love the smoothness of a C4. Overall, durable, flexible, reliable. I would recommend trying out a friends if you can before buying them, just to make sure they suit you.
Pros
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
These are good in the smaller sizes (up to a 2) but I've found after just a few months of use they start to bind up pretty good in the 3-6 sizes. Lubing them helps but you have to do it a lot and the binding I think is more due to a floppy stem. There's nothing more frustrating than being a little pumped and not being able to squeeze the cam down easily and get it placed. They can get really stiff to retract!
I was not that impressed since there are better single stem options out there.
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Comments about Metolius Master Cams:
Great Cams - I use the #0 - #2 sizes and go to Black Diamond Camalots for the larger sizes. I really like them and am considering getting doubles and getting up to the #4. I've read some reviews where people prefer them over Camalots up to a Red Camalot! I don't use TCUs any more now that I have these!
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