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Imported.
Item 748422
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REVIEW SNAPSHOT®
by PowerReviewsPros
Cons
Best Uses
Feels too narrow | ||
Feels true to width | 100% (4 reviews) | |
Feels too wide |
Feels full size too small | ||
Feels half size too small | ||
Feels true to size | 92% (23 reviews) | |
Feels half size too big | ||
Feels full size too big |
Reviewed by 18 customers
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Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Scarpa Charmoz GTX Mountaineering Boots - Men's:
I bought this boot to replace my well worn Nepal Extreme's. While I did make a compromise in warmth, it more than made up for it in warm weather mountaineering. I wouldn't use it for colder trips. It is great in alpine rock, and I have comfortably climbed 5.7 with them, and felt very secure. They edge well, and the rubber is decent for smearing on Washington's granite. I like the fact they are light enough to walk comfortably in for days, and they allow a good feel for the rock. These are NOT a hiking boot, they are meant for climbing, do not confuse the two. I also used them with BD Contact Strap crampons on near vertical glacial ice and snow. This was softer ice, and they perform well for short sections. I would not want to try to front point in them all day, they are too soft for it. They do kick steps fairly well. The boot is going to be less durable than a heavier model, but with that being said I have had about 75 days in them in the mountains and they are holding up well. I recommend them for the person looking for a solid light mountaineering boot for summer time use.
Pros
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Comments about Scarpa Charmoz GTX Mountaineering Boots - Men's:
This boot's best feature is its low weight. It tries to be a hiking boot, and a climbing boot; and as a result is really neither. It needs a softer sole for the approach, and stiffer shank for the climb.
In more detail; they are quite flexible. Do you want that for a comfortable approach? Or are you planning to put on a pair of crampons and climb ice? Then flexibility is not so great.
The soles use one of Vibram's more durable compounds. It will certainly last for hundreds of trail miles. But, just like tire compounds, durable is slippery. The compound is so slick it is dangerous on wet rock during the approach/departure. I lost count of how many times I slipped on my overnight ice climbing trip with these boots. I was cussing and wishing for my hiking boots for the approach/departure phases.
I could live with the flexibility, but the slipperiness was not acceptable. If Scarpa would stiffen the shank and change the sole compound to a much softer one (at an acceptable trade off in life-span), they would have a winner; and I'd buy these again for their low weight (which is why I chose them in the first place).
Pros
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Comments about Scarpa Charmoz GTX Mountaineering Boots - Men's:
Firstly, I am extremely hard on gear. I am 6ft 2 inches and weigh 235 lbs. I love bushwacking into seldom seen lakes, alpine climbing and hard backpacking. I normally wear 4E wide shoes and have had horrible shoe / foot injuries in the past from poor performing yet expensive boots. These boots worked great. In the past I have had to wear medium to heavy mountaineering boots as my backpacking boots to support my sometimes ridiculously heavy loads and my feet. I have Plantar Facitis which in the past almost ruined some of my hikes / climbs. These boots took virtually no breakin time. I pretty much wore them right out of the box on my first hike with these and not one complaint, blister, hot spot or other annoying and painful foot / boot problem. I hiked the PCT from Stevens Pass to Snoqualmie Pass last year in 3 days with a 50 lb pack, no problem. These boots were much lighter than my previous boots, they had tons of support and traction. They were very water proof, my first day was typical Seattle rain and not a drop made it inside. I have heard these boots fit a narrower foot, but with my wide waffle stompers they fit fine, no tendency to walk out onto the sides of the boot. They do require wrapping the laces around themselves to keep tension on the lower portion of the boot laces when putting them on so they don't loosen up when tying off the upper laces, but for such a minor issue and such a well fitting and performing boot, I take the extra 2 seconds. I cannot recommend them any higher. Buy them, your feet will love you.
Pros
Cons
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Comments about Scarpa Charmoz GTX Mountaineering Boots - Men's:
These boots are great for what they're meant for, which is not vertical ice, as one user reviewed. They're basically a 3/4 shank boot, which means they're fairly flexible and not to be used on too steep of ice. They did ok on the NF couloir of Buckner (WA Cascades) which has 50 degree ice, but I wouldn't use them in lieu of a full shank pair of boots on ice steeper than 50 degrees and I wouldn't even recommend them on that steep of ice for long periods, but for the light weight it might be worth it. They perform well on intermediate-ish mountaineering terrain, but for anything harder, I would advise pulling out your heavier duty mountaineering boots. Durability: I've used them on about 20 mountaineering trips (always with a pair of approach shoes, when a long approach is required) and they're holding up fine, a little less waterproof, but no delamination of anything. Thats all I got.
Pros
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Comments about Scarpa Charmoz GTX Mountaineering Boots - Men's:
I suffered through two pairs (and two generations) of Lasportiva Trangos before giving these a try (Trangos had little toe issues, bruised big toenails and pain.) The Charmoz has a bigger toebox and is more comfortable. I didn't give up any performance and they seem to stick better and walk better. They are also, amazingly, a bit lighter and seem a little more durable.
None of these ultralight mountaineering boots are going to last like a pair of roughout clodhoppers but the performance is worth it.
Pros
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Best Uses
Comments about Scarpa Charmoz GTX Mountaineering Boots - Men's:
I've used these boots on 3 alpine trips this year (clark mtn., glacier peak, and Baker) and was pleasantly surprised. Very light, warm for the weight, and very waterproof. They do well with crampons(G12's) and stiff enough that I think I would be comfortable on up to 50 degree ice with them, although not sustained. We'll see how warm they stay with wear, because I've heard they get colder with wear. Same as the trango's just cheaper.
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Comments about Scarpa Charmoz GTX Mountaineering Boots - Men's:
Have done several climbs in the cascades and olympics with these guys and can report the following:
Good: These boots are great in snow, good with crampons up to moderately steep terrain. They are lightweight, and fairly warm for the weight, though it generally doesn't get that cold around here.
Bad: I get heel blisters when hiking in these unless I tape, but that's typical for stiff mountaineering boots. No problems when in snow, or moving more slowly on mixed terrain. I try to avoid hiking in them, and often bring a pair of light approach shoes on long trips. The soles are hella slippery on wet rock and logs, but after 20+ trips show little wear. The biggest annoyance is that the waterproofing seemed to wear off fairly quick, but any summer climb in the cascades can become a slush-fest to soak any boot.
If you stay mostly in snow, and it's not super slushy, you will probably love these boots.
All in all, not super happy with them, but will probably hang onto them until they wear out.
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Scarpa Charmoz GTX Mountaineering Boots - Men's:
These shoes nice. I usually wear a 7.5 or 39.5 shoe but no one sells shoes that fit me, I got these in a 41 and have taken them through the Olympics and up Mt. Adams. They work well with Super feet and 2 pairs of thick socks. They're very durable and were easy to break in. overall I think they are doing a good job at keeping me comfortable enough to focus on the climb rather than my feet.
Pros
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Comments about Scarpa Charmoz GTX Mountaineering Boots - Men's:
I wore these climbing Mt Adams new out of the box without any problems. They fit my narrow feet well with thick socks. Together with Grivel Air Tech Light crampons, they are no heavier than some other boots alone.
Might have purchased the Scarpa Triolet with more leather for durability, if it was available, so I rated this 4 stars. I considered the La Sportiva Glacier Evo, but it wasn't as good for my foot shape.
Pros
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about Scarpa Charmoz GTX Mountaineering Boots - Men's:
Boots seem great, but are too narrow in the toe box. Returned them after wearing at home for 1 hour, and didn't wear them outside of the house. Wish they made wider size, then I would recommend them.
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