REI.com
  • Online: www.REI.com
  • URL for this product:
  • From the U.S. and Canada — Call 1-800-426-4840
  • Mon. through Sun., 4 a.m. through 11 p.m. PT.
  • International — Call 1-253-891-2500
  • Mon. through Sun., 4 a.m. through 11 p.m. PT. English language only.
Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device

Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device

This item is currently sold out or unavailable online.

You're in luck, a new version of this item is available

Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device
Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device
  • $29.95
Take me to the new one!

Or, may we suggest shopping for similar items:

Shop more Belay and Rappel DevicesShop more Black Diamond

This page is provided for reference to historical product information.

Designed for climbers who want complete belay and rappel functions in a single device, the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device offers maximum versatility.

  • Made from durable, hot-forged anodized 7075-T6 aluminum, the ATC Guide can handle rope sizes from 7.7 - 11mm in a variety of adverse situations
  • Variable friction design gives great control with many rope diameters
  • Use LFM (low friction mode) when rapping with a fuzzy 11mm rope or speed rappelling
  • Use HFM (high friction mode) for thin ropes, wet conditions or rapping with a heavy haul bag
  • In Guide mode device allows easy lowering of climber regardless of weight disparity between climber and belayer
  • Guide mode utilizes large clip-in hole that easily fits over the largest sleeves of standard locking carabiners, making setup a breeze
  • Because Guide mode can effectively lock the rope, a release hole in the front of the device can be used to release tension and allow better control
  • Coated retainer wire keeps device in place
  • Black Diamond Guide belay device has a versatile double-slot design that allows you to feed single or double ropes smoothly, yet hold falls with ease; won't kink the rope

Imported.

Item 737857

REI Membership

People Also Viewed

Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device Specs
Specification
Description
Best use
Climbing
Yes
Yes
7.7mm - 11mm, single/double
Suitable for belaying
Suitable for rappelling
Fits rope sizes

Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device Customer Reviews

REVIEW SNAPSHOT®

by PowerReviews
Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device
 
4.4

(based on 17 reviews)

94%

of respondents would recommend this to a friend.

Pros

  • Simple (12)
  • Scratch resistant (3)
  • Versatile (3)

Cons

  • Heavy / bulky (4)

Best Uses

  • Climbing (21)
  • Long climbs (12)
  • Sprint climbs (3)
    • Reviewer Profile:
    • Avid climber (9), Casual/ recreational (7)

Reviewed by 17 customers

Sort by

Displaying reviews 1-10

Back to top

Previous | Next »

Sep

12

2007

(2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)

 
4.0

Good with small diameter ropes

By Bartek

from Kirkland, WA

About Me Casual/ Recreational

See all my reviews

Site Member

Pros

    Cons

      Best Uses

      • Long Climbs
      • Outdoor climbing

      Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

      The device works nice with small diameter ropes, however belaying on thick ropes (10.5+) turns into a nightmare. The auto-locking mode is pretty handy when belaying your second from the anchor, however when the follower struggles a lot (and weights the rope habitually) device locks all the time and you need to put some effort into unlocking it. Still, excelent design overall, unless you happen to use a thick rope.

      Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

      (2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)

      Was this review helpful? Yes / No

       - You may also flag this review

      Dec

      17

      2008

      (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

       
      4.0

      Great Versatility

      By Doubting Thomas

      from La Habra, CA

      About Me Avid Climber

      See all my reviews

      Site Member

      Pros

      • Smooth action
      • Versatile

      Cons

      • Heavy but worth it

      Best Uses

      • Mountaineering
      • Multi-Pitch Climbs

      Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

      The versatility of this piece is great. It is heavy but worth it due to its multiple functions and ruggedness. I feel like I will be using this piece for years to come. The surface texture of the Guide surprised me by how smooth it feeds. Pair this with a Rocklock Screwgate for the most versatile and rugged belay set up out there.

      Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

      (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

      Was this review helpful? Yes / No

       - You may also flag this review

      Nov

      14

      2007

      (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

       
      4.0

      The only belay device I'll use

      By Alpha Geek

      from Salt Lake City, UT

      About Me Avid Climber, Casual/ Recreational

      See all my reviews

      Site Member

      Pros

      • Auto-lock
      • Simple
      • Solid
      • Varsatile

      Cons

      • Heavy but worth it

      Best Uses

      • Long Climbs
      • Multi-Pitch Climbs
      • Outdoor climbing
      • Trad Climbing

      Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

      I've had an ATC, ATC XP and a Reverso. This replaces all of them. I use it with 8mm twin to 10.5mm ropes. The feed is smoother than both the ATC and XP and more variable than the Reverso. The autolock catches faster than the Reverso. Releasing the autolock to lower a climber weighting the rope is tricky, but relatively straightforward - something impossible on the Reverso. It's not the best ascender, but functional as one. It's heavy, but I wouldn't trade that for the smooth feel, flexibility, and solid reliability.

      Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

      (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

      Was this review helpful? Yes / No

       - You may also flag this review

      Sep

      4

      2007

      (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

       
      4.0

      Excellent performance

      By Chosspile

      from Boulder, CO

      About Me Avid Climber

      See all my reviews

      Site Member

      Pros

      • Autolock feature
      • Smooth belay and rappell
      • Versatile

      Cons

      • A little more bulk
      • Pricey

      Best Uses

      • Alpine climbing
      • Cragging
      • Multi-pitch

      Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

      This is the smoothest most versatile belay device I have used to date. Ropes over 10.2mm diameter don't go as smoothly because narrow opening, but smaller diameter runs silky smooth. Very good control on rappell due to variable friction, anodized metal surface makes for nice ride. Autolock function is very good with small diameter ropes ~ 8mm but larger ropes tend to have too much friction. Overall, may be best design on the market.

      Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

      (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

      Was this review helpful? Yes / No

       - You may also flag this review

      Aug

      17

      2010

       
      5.0

      Love this thing

      By ichris

      from Denver, CO

      About Me Avid Climber

      See all my reviews

      Pros

      • Scratch resistant
      • Simple

      Cons

        Best Uses

        • Long Climbs
        • Outdoor climbing
        • Sprint Climbs

        Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

        Great belay/rappel device. High friction mode makes lowering and rappelling easier on the hands. But what is best about this thing is setting it up for autolocking belay mode is so simple. On multipitch climbs this thing can make life much easier. Enjoy!

        • Gift:
        • No

        Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

        Was this review helpful? Yes / No

         - You may also flag this review

        Jun

        26

        2010

         
        5.0

        Great Device !

        By E. Matt

        from MA

        About Me Casual/ Recreational

        See all my reviews

        Site Member

        Pros

        • Simple

        Cons

          Best Uses

          • Indoor climbing
          • Long Climbs
          • Outdoor climbing

          Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

          I have had this ATC Guide just about a year. I have used it in alpine sub zero conditions to hot and steamy slab climbs. This device is burly and solid. It belays great from the harness or off an anchor. The auto-lock feature is really an arm saver when belaying up a 2nd. The holes on it are large so they clip easy and allow the device to center easily. I do find that I flip the device and use the nonfriction side when rapping at times: If the route is lower angle and the friction would be too much I do this. Really a great device !!

          • Gift:
          • No

          Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

          Was this review helpful? Yes / No

           - You may also flag this review

          Nov

          24

          2009

           
          5.0

          Awesome ATC

          By Rock Climber 4 Life

          from Dallas, TX

          About Me Avid Climber

          See all my reviews

          Site Member

          Pros

          • Scratch resistant
          • Simple

          Cons

            Best Uses

            • Indoor climbing
            • Long Climbs
            • Outdoor climbing

            Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

            I find this ATC to work great whether training in the gym or climbing outdoors. Extremely good rope holding when locked and allows the rope to move when you need it to.

            It works well with my 9.8mm rope. As you'd expect, thicker ropes don't slide through as smoothly, but I have yet to see a rope get stuck and not budge.

            Feels very sturdy and allows me to be confident when rappelling with 2 ropes down a cliff.

            • Gift:
            • No

            Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

            Was this review helpful? Yes / No

             - You may also flag this review

            Jun

            12

            2009

             
            4.0

            Another BD Victory

            By UrbanPrimitive

            from Ann Arbor

            About Me Casual/ Recreational

            See all my reviews

            Site Member

            Pros

            • Simple

            Cons

            • Heavy

            Best Uses

            • Outdoor climbing
            • Sprint Climbs

            Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

            This is a great device. I can't wait to get it out in the gorges! If you're breaking out the gram scale for every piece of gear, it may be too heavy for you. If you aren't doing big wall work or marathon alpines, it's a solid choice. The lock is solid as a rock, and it opens as though nothing happened.
            On the downside, it is a bit tight for gym ropes. I have to work to get anything above a 10.7mm rope through. It's possible, just not buttering. There's real yanking involved.
            On the other hand, when hitting actual rock I'm not lugging around anything bigger than a 10.4 anyway!
            Bottomline: Great device, auto-lock top belay feature is an arm saver, not the best choice for indoor training.

            • Gift:
            • No

            Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

            Was this review helpful? Yes / No

             - You may also flag this review

            Apr

            30

            2009

             
            4.0

            Extremely Versatile Belay Device

            By Sigs

            from Alexandria, VA

            About Me Casual/ Recreational

            See all my reviews

            Site Member

            Pros

            • Simple
            • Strong Design
            • Versatile

            Cons

            • A little Heavy

            Best Uses

            • Indoor climbing
            • Long Climbs
            • Outdoor climbing

            Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

            The ATC guide performs all the versatile functions a regular ATC does (top-rope & lead belaying, double rope rappeling) and it allows you to belay from the top (with the climber below the belayer). It is a little heavy, but it's robust.

            • Gift:
            • No

            Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

            Was this review helpful? Yes / No

             - You may also flag this review

            Apr

            27

            2009

             
            5.0

            catbirdseat

            By catbirdseat

            from Laguna Beach, CA

            About Me Avid Climber

            See all my reviews

            Pros

              Cons

                Best Uses

                • Long Climbs
                • Outdoor climbing

                Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

                The device has some ridges when it is new that make it rather sticky until they wear down smooth with use. Then it is just fine.

                In the Guide Mode, it works fine with 9 mm ropes, but there is far too much friction with 10.5 mm ropes. The friction is reasonable with a single 10.5 mm rope in Guide Mode.

                The carabiner that you use for Guide Mode can affect friction. It should ideally be a small HMS type so that the two strands are not forced together. Otherwise they can't be brought in independent. In a perfect world your two followers will climb at the same rate, but that isn't what happens in practice.

                • Gift:
                • No

                Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

                Was this review helpful? Yes / No

                 - You may also flag this review

                Displaying reviews 1-10

                Back to top

                Previous | Next »

                How are we doing? Give us feedback on this page.

                FREE U.S. STANDARD SHIPPING No minimum purchase!

                THE REI WINTER CLEARANCE: SAVE UP TO 50% On selected ski, snowboard and end-of-season clothing & gear. Shop early for the best deals

                • Join REI today!
                • REI Membership
                • REI member benefits include an annual refund (typically 10% on eligible purchases).
                • Join REI today!
                • Sign up for REI Gearmail®
                • and get 15% off selected items!
                • Store Locator
                • Locate an REI store near you.
                • Find a Store

                Find REI on: FacebookTwitterYouTubeFlickr