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Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device

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Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device

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Product Description,
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Designed for climbers who want complete belay and rappel functions in a single device, the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device offers maximum versatility.

Made from durable, hot-forged anodized 7075-T6 aluminum, the ATC Guide can handle rope sizes from 7.7 - 11mm in a variety of adverse situations
Variable friction design gives great control with many rope diameters
Use LFM (low friction mode) when rapping with a fuzzy 11mm rope or speed rappelling
Use HFM (high friction mode) for thin ropes, wet conditions or rapping with a heavy haul bag
In Guide mode device allows easy lowering of climber regardless of weight disparity between climber and belayer
Guide mode utilizes large clip-in hole that easily fits over the largest sleeves of standard locking carabiners, making setup a breeze
Because Guide mode can effectively lock the rope, a release hole in the front of the device can be used to release tension and allow better control
Coated retainer wire keeps device in place
Black Diamond Guide belay device has a versatile double-slot design that allows you to feed single or double ropes smoothly, yet hold falls with ease; won't kink the rope

Please note: Black Diamond products can only be shipped to the U.S., Canada and Mexico.

Imported.

Item 737857

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Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device Customer Reviews

REVIEW SNAPSHOT®

by PowerReviews

Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device

4.4

(based on 17 reviews)

94%

of respondents would recommend this to a friend.

Pros

Simple (12)
Scratch resistant (3)
Versatile (3)

Cons

Heavy / bulky (4)

Best Uses

Climbing (21)
Long climbs (12)
Sprint climbs (3)

- Reviewer Profile:
- Avid climber (9), Casual/ recreational (7)

Reviewed by 17 customers

Sort by

Displaying reviews 1-10

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Sep

2007

(2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)

4.0

Good with small diameter ropes

By Bartek

from Kirkland, WA

About Me Casual/ Recreational

See all my reviews

Pros

Cons

Best Uses

Long Climbs
Outdoor climbing

Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

The device works nice with small diameter ropes, however belaying on thick ropes (10.5+) turns into a nightmare. The auto-locking mode is pretty handy when belaying your second from the anchor, however when the follower struggles a lot (and weights the rope habitually) device locks all the time and you need to put some effort into unlocking it. Still, excelent design overall, unless you happen to use a thick rope.

Comment on this review

Dec

2008

(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

4.0

Great Versatility

By Doubting Thomas

from La Habra, CA

About Me Avid Climber

See all my reviews

Pros

Smooth action
Versatile

Cons

Heavy but worth it

Best Uses

Mountaineering
Multi-Pitch Climbs

Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

The versatility of this piece is great. It is heavy but worth it due to its multiple functions and ruggedness. I feel like I will be using this piece for years to come. The surface texture of the Guide surprised me by how smooth it feeds. Pair this with a Rocklock Screwgate for the most versatile and rugged belay set up out there.

Comment on this review

Nov

2007

(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

4.0

The only belay device I'll use

By Alpha Geek

from Bainbridge Island, WA

About Me Avid Climber, Casual/ Recreational

See all my reviews

Pros

Auto-lock
Simple
Solid
Varsatile

Cons

Heavy but worth it

Best Uses

Long Climbs
Multi-Pitch Climbs
Outdoor climbing
Trad Climbing

Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

I've had an ATC, ATC XP and a Reverso. This replaces all of them. I use it with 8mm twin to 10.5mm ropes. The feed is smoother than both the ATC and XP and more variable than the Reverso. The autolock catches faster than the Reverso. Releasing the autolock to lower a climber weighting the rope is tricky, but relatively straightforward - something impossible on the Reverso. It's not the best ascender, but functional as one. It's heavy, but I wouldn't trade that for the smooth feel, flexibility, and solid reliability.

Comment on this review

Sep

2007

(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

4.0

Excellent performance

By Chosspile

from Boulder, CO

About Me Avid Climber

See all my reviews

Pros

Autolock feature
Smooth belay and rappell
Versatile

Cons

A little more bulk
Pricey

Best Uses

Alpine climbing
Cragging
Multi-pitch

Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

This is the smoothest most versatile belay device I have used to date. Ropes over 10.2mm diameter don't go as smoothly because narrow opening, but smaller diameter runs silky smooth. Very good control on rappell due to variable friction, anodized metal surface makes for nice ride. Autolock function is very good with small diameter ropes ~ 8mm but larger ropes tend to have too much friction. Overall, may be best design on the market.

Comment on this review

Aug

2010

5.0

Love this thing

By ichris

from Fresno, CA

About Me Avid Climber

See all my reviews

Pros

Scratch resistant
Simple

Cons

Best Uses

Long Climbs
Outdoor climbing
Sprint Climbs

Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

Great belay/rappel device. High friction mode makes lowering and rappelling easier on the hands. But what is best about this thing is setting it up for autolocking belay mode is so simple. On multipitch climbs this thing can make life much easier. Enjoy!

Comment on this review

Jun

2010

5.0

Great Device !

By E. Matt

from MA

About Me Casual/ Recreational

See all my reviews

Pros

Simple

Cons

Best Uses

Indoor climbing
Long Climbs
Outdoor climbing

Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

I have had this ATC Guide just about a year. I have used it in alpine sub zero conditions to hot and steamy slab climbs. This device is burly and solid. It belays great from the harness or off an anchor. The auto-lock feature is really an arm saver when belaying up a 2nd. The holes on it are large so they clip easy and allow the device to center easily. I do find that I flip the device and use the nonfriction side when rapping at times: If the route is lower angle and the friction would be too much I do this. Really a great device !!

Comment on this review

Nov

2009

5.0

Awesome ATC

By Rock Climber 4 Life

from Dallas, TX

About Me Avid Climber

See all my reviews

Pros

Scratch resistant
Simple

Cons

Best Uses

Indoor climbing
Long Climbs
Outdoor climbing

Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

I find this ATC to work great whether training in the gym or climbing outdoors. Extremely good rope holding when locked and allows the rope to move when you need it to.

It works well with my 9.8mm rope. As you'd expect, thicker ropes don't slide through as smoothly, but I have yet to see a rope get stuck and not budge.

Feels very sturdy and allows me to be confident when rappelling with 2 ropes down a cliff.

Comment on this review

Jun

2009

4.0

Another BD Victory

By UrbanPrimitive

from Ann Arbor

About Me Casual/ Recreational

See all my reviews

Pros

Simple

Cons

Heavy

Best Uses

Outdoor climbing
Sprint Climbs

Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

This is a great device. I can't wait to get it out in the gorges! If you're breaking out the gram scale for every piece of gear, it may be too heavy for you. If you aren't doing big wall work or marathon alpines, it's a solid choice. The lock is solid as a rock, and it opens as though nothing happened.
On the downside, it is a bit tight for gym ropes. I have to work to get anything above a 10.7mm rope through. It's possible, just not buttering. There's real yanking involved.
On the other hand, when hitting actual rock I'm not lugging around anything bigger than a 10.4 anyway!
Bottomline: Great device, auto-lock top belay feature is an arm saver, not the best choice for indoor training.

Comment on this review

Apr

2009

4.0

Extremely Versatile Belay Device

By Sigs

from Alexandria, VA

About Me Casual/ Recreational

See all my reviews

Pros

Simple
Strong Design
Versatile

Cons

A little Heavy

Best Uses

Indoor climbing
Long Climbs
Outdoor climbing

Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

The ATC guide performs all the versatile functions a regular ATC does (top-rope & lead belaying, double rope rappeling) and it allows you to belay from the top (with the climber below the belayer). It is a little heavy, but it's robust.

Comment on this review

Apr

2009

5.0

catbirdseat

By catbirdseat

from Laguna Beach, CA

About Me Avid Climber

See all my reviews

Pros

Cons

Best Uses

Long Climbs
Outdoor climbing

Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

The device has some ridges when it is new that make it rather sticky until they wear down smooth with use. Then it is just fine.

In the Guide Mode, it works fine with 9 mm ropes, but there is far too much friction with 10.5 mm ropes. The friction is reasonable with a single 10.5 mm rope in Guide Mode.

The carabiner that you use for Guide Mode can affect friction. It should ideally be a small HMS type so that the two strands are not forced together. Otherwise they can't be brought in independent. In a perfect world your two followers will climb at the same rate, but that isn't what happens in practice.