How To Choose Alpine Skis

• Your Skier Profile
• Types of Skis
• Choosing a Ski Length
• Basics of Ski Construction
• Go Shopping

I've been skiing for 25 years, and tearing the wrapper off a new pair of skis is just as adrenaline-charged today as it was when I was 11. Whether it's your first pair or your 50th, the high you'll get from running your fingers over unblemished P-Tex and factory-sharp edges doesn't diminish. Wading through the ever-increasing number of options to select the perfect ride is the hardest part. Before you get overwhelmed, take some time to be honest about where you are and where you want to be with your skiing.

Your Skier Profile

What is your skier profile? Read through the three basic levels below. If you're still not sure, ask yourself:

• What other sports/activities do I do?
• What level do I usually get to with them?
• How quickly do I tend to progress?

If you're athletic and plan to push yourself every weekend, you can step up your profile level. If you plan to take it slow and easy, a ski matched to your current profile will boost your confidence.

Recreational

You're new to the sport and looking to improve quickly, or you've been at it for a while but enjoy skiing leisurely on groomed green and blue runs. You need skis that are forgiving, easy to control and give you confidence while you improve. Recreational skis turn easily and grip well on moderate terrain. They are good stepping stones for a budding ski enthusiast.

• Start by browsing recreational skis in the all-mountain category.
• Check recreational skis in the carving category if you regularly ski icy conditions or aspire to arc racing-style turns.
• Check out twin tips if you've got big air dreams and your eyes on the terrain park.

Intermediate

You've spent a few seasons taking lessons and honing your ski skills. You have good control over your speed, and you can comfortably ski blues and easier black runs. You're ready to beef up your skills and tackle steeper terrain, moguls and ungroomed snow. You need skis that are more responsive, with better edge hold and control, yet still forgiving for the times you get in over your head.

• There are intermediate skis in every category, including powder, if you're jonseing to play in the soft stuff.

Advanced

You're at the top of your ski game. You shred with confidence, speed and aggressiveness on the steepest and most challenging terrain. You fly from high-speed groomers to steep powder fields to the backcountry. You'll ski double-blacks or unmarked trails at the resort and might be planning a heli- or cat-skiing trip. You need a high-performance, uber-responsive ski that can keep up with you.

• Skis in all categories match your needs, so you'll need to decide where you'll spend most of your time (riding the whole mountain, searching for powder, taking hits in the terrain park, arcing turns through corduroy, or all of the above).
• For maximum performance and less buying stress, consider acquiring a ski quiver that includes two or three pairs of skis, each targeted at a specific snow condition or type of terrain.

Types of Skis

To determine what category of ski to shop, ask yourself:

What type of snow do you ski most often?

• Powder
• Soft snow and crud
• Hardpack

What parts of the mountain do you ski most?

• Groomers
• Park/pipe
• Steeps/off-piste

An all-mountain ski is one that can tackle the whole mountain reasonably well. If you plan on amassing a quiver of skis with targeted weapons for a variety of conditions and moods, select from the rest of the ski categories.

Above all, relax through the process. Ski materials and engineering have never been better and your skiing will thank you, no matter which boards you end up taking home.

All-Mountain Skis

You're a Renaissance Skier who isn't restricted to a specific type of terrain or snow condition. All-mountain skis are designed for everything from carving groomed slopes to shralping off-piste drops, jumps, bumps and powder. Generally, these skis have a waist width (the narrow center area of a ski) of 72mm or more for maneuverability, stability and flotation.

• These all-around skis are perfect if you plan to use one ski for all of your outings.
• For more targeted uses, check out the other categories.

Powder Skis

You switch your homepage to Weather.com to track storms and you come down with the stomach flu when the mountain gets more than eight inches. Powder skis have broad platforms, softer flexes and waist widths of 95mm or more, for superb flotation in deep snow. A few skis now have reverse camber or "rocker" - a flat spot underfoot that curves upward toward the tip and tail to keep the ski from diving under the snow. Powder skis are not as versatile across all snow conditions and they often perform relatively poorly on hard snow.

• Unless you only go out when it dumps, consider buying another set of skis for the not-so-deep days.
• Extreme powder skis, also known as "big mountain skis," are extra wide for deep pow conditions.

Twin Tip Park Skis

Designed for skiing or landing switch (backwards), these skis are curved-up at both the front and the back. Most twin tips are made with very soft flex and ultra-durable materials because of the beatings they take. Park rats will gnaw here. Most twin tips have moderate waist widths, but some have adapted to become more versatile for all-mountain use.

• If you like it all and are thinking of playing around with some terrain features, this category is worth sampling.
• Many skis in the powder category also have twin tips, for skiing or landing switch in powder.
• For steep-freaks, a twin tip can make a ski more maneuverable in tight couloirs.

Carver Skis

Intended primarily for snapping quick turns on groomed runs and running gates, these skis range from developmental to aggressive, high-speed slalom and GS models. Waists are as slim as 68mm and sidecut radii are small so carve skis are quick from edge to edge and offer superior grip on hard snow.

• If you like to execute quick turns with maximum control, this is your category.

Integrated Skis

These skis are sold with bindings. (At REI.com, they're listed under "Ski and Binding Systems"). Without integrated binding technology, the ski does not flex as naturally underfoot. With it, the ski can flex evenly and freely along its entire length. This increases contact with the snow to enhance sensitivity and performance and create larger sweet spot and a smoother ride. More and more manufacturers are making skis this way, and it is one of largest ski categories on REI.com.

• Integrated skis can be all-mountain or carving skis.

Women's Skis

Women's skis are subtly modified to optimize performance based on a woman's physiology. They are generally lighter and shorter and have less aggressive flex patterns. In addition, because a woman's center of gravity is farther back than a man's, women-specific skis feature forward-mounted binding plates for greater balance and control.

• Women can, of course, go with any ski model appropriate for their ability and terrain preferences.
• Some women, however, especially those with smaller builds, find that women's skis are easier to control.

Kids' Skis

They have flashy graphics, come in shorter lengths and cost less than adult skis, but today's kids' skis don't skimp on performance. The most common style is twin tips, and kids' skis are available in the entire ability spectrum.

Choosing a Ski Length

If you haven't bought a new pair of skis in 20 years, you should know that the old method of choosing a ski that's about as tall as you has gone out with stretch pants and pompoms. Wider ski waistlines mean that skis are made and sold in shorter lengths. The increased surface area offers stability that used to come from length. Even if you can find that pair of fatties you're eyeing in a 200cm length, don't be surprised if they refuse to turn. Be prepared to drop down at least 10cm to 20cm from what you used to ski.

The length of ski you should buy depends on your height, weight and ski style. The basic rule is that a ski's length should fall between your nose and eyebrow. Once you've been at it for a while, choosing a ski length will be come a personal choice. For guidelines, check the ski-specific sizing chart at the bottom of each REI.com product page.

• In general, if you're a particularly heavy, strong skier who likes to go straight and fast, opt for a longer length (around eyebrows).
• If you're lighter or love to turn, go shorter (around nose).

The Basics of Ski Construction

Profile Dimensions

Ski dimensions are measured in three areas-the tip, the waist and the tail (e.g.,124 / 81 / 112 millimeters). By knowing these measurements, you can understand how a ski will perform and know its ideal conditions. The sweet spot for today's all-mountain skis is in the 78mm to 88mm waist-width range. Consider these specialized alternatives:

• A slim waist-around 74mm-will turn quickly and hold a strong edge on groomed slopes, hard pack or ice.
• A wide waist-like 96mm-will float over and through powder with ease due to the increased surface area.

The difference between the waist width and the tip and tail widths translates into the sidecut radius, which also determines how a ski performs.

• Skis in the powder category have the widest tips (up to 160mm) and tails (up to 148mm) for flotation in deep snow.
• Twin tips are on the skinny side, with tips tails around 110-115mm for straight take-offs and landings.
• Carve and all-mountain skis have tips around 120mm and tails around 100mm (slightly shorter in some carve skis). Remember: Carve skis have the narrowest waists, making them turn easier than all-mountain skis even though their tip and tail dimensions are similar.

Sidecut Radius

Look down on a ski from above. The edges curve inward toward the middle on both sides of the ski. This is the sidecut. Now draw an imaginary circle that extends from one of those curves outward. The sidecut radius is a line drawn from the ski edge to the center of the circle. If the ski has a deep sidecut (very curvy), then the circle you draw will be smaller and the sidecut radius will be smaller. If the sidecut is shallow (straighter profile), then the circle will have to be larger and the sidecut radius will be larger. Measured in meters, the sidecut radius is the size of the turn that the ski will make when set on edge.

• Larger sidecut radius (20+ meters) = long turns, racing, powder, moguls (powder skis)
• Mid-range sidecut radius (around 18 meters) = medium-length turns, all-mountain skiing (twin tip, all-mountain skis)
• Smaller sidecut radius (around 15 meters) = short, tight turns on groomed runs and hardpack (carve, all-mountain skis)

Ski Cores: Wood versus Composites

The material used in the core of the ski affects performance. In general, wood offers a resilient, lively snap and is known for its durability, while synthetic foam offers a consistent flex and lighter weight. Metal added to the core increases stiffness. Many skis today offer a hybrid mix of these materials.

Go Shopping!

You can read all you want about ski construction and how other people think skis perform, but there's nothing like trying them out for yourself. When possible, test drive several models that you think will fit your ability and style. Many REI stores rent skis for you to do just that, or you can rent from the ski area. Manufacturers' demo days are another great way to try before you buy, as you can sample many pairs and make comparisons. Ski areas will often have calendars of such events on their websites.

As you browse skis at REI.com, check the "Specs" tab at the bottom of each ski page. It outlines the features and dimensions of each ski, as well as the target skier profile and ski category (called "ski style"). Use this guide to determine your skier profile and ski category, then compare specs to see if the ski you're scoping suits you.