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Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device
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Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device

Item # 737857

$27.95

Item qualifies for annual
REI Member Refund (typically 10%)

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Designed for climbers who want complete belay and rappel functions in a single device, the Black Diamond® ATC Guide offers maximum versatility.

  • Made from durable, hot-forged anodized 7075-T6 aluminum, the ATC Guide can handle rope sizes from 7.7 - 11mm in a variety of adverse situations
  • Variable friction design gives great control with many rope diameters
  • Use LFM (low friction mode) when rapping with a fuzzy 11mm rope or speed rappelling
  • Use HFM (high friction mode) for thin ropes, wet conditions or rapping with a heavy haul bag
  • In Guide mode device allows easy lowering of climber regardless of weight disparity between climber and belayer
  • Guide mode utilizes large clip-in hole that easily fits over the largest sleeves of standard locking carabiners, making setup a breeze
  • Because Guide mode can effectively lock the rope, a release hole in the front of the device can be used to release tension and allow better control
  • Coated retainer wire keeps device in place
  • Versatile double-slot design allows you to feed single or double ropes smoothly, yet hold falls with ease: won't kink the rope

Please note: Black Diamond products can only be shipped to the U.S., Canada and Mexico

Imported.

Item 737857

Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device Specs

Specification

Description

Weight102 grams
Fits rope sizes7.7mm - 11mm, single/double
Suitable for belayingYes
Suitable for rappellingYes

Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device Customer Reviews

REVIEW SNAPSHOT®

by PowerReviews
Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device
 
4.2

(based on 14 reviews)

93%

of respondents would recommend this to a friend.

Pros

  • Simple (9)
  • Versatile (3)

Cons

  • Heavy (4)

Best Uses

  • Outdoor climbing (11)
  • Long climbs (9)
  • Indoor climbing (3)
  • Reviewer Profile:
  • Avid climber (7), Casual adventurer (6)

Reviewed by 14 customers

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Dec

17

2008

(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

 
4.0

Great Versatility

By Doubting Thomas

from La Habra, CA

About Me Avid Climber

Site Member

Pros

  • Smooth action
  • Versatile

Cons

  • Heavy but worth it

Best Uses

  • Mountaineering
  • Multi-Pitch Climbs

Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

The versatility of this piece is great. It is heavy but worth it due to its multiple functions and ruggedness. I feel like I will be using this piece for years to come. The surface texture of the Guide surprised me by how smooth it feeds. Pair this with a Rocklock Screwgate for the most versatile and rugged belay set up out there.

Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

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Nov

14

2007

(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

 
4.0

The only belay device I'll use

By Alpha Geek

from Salt Lake City, UT

About Me Avid Climber, Casual/ Recreational

Site Member

Pros

  • Auto-lock
  • Simple
  • Solid
  • Varsatile

Cons

  • Heavy but worth it

Best Uses

  • Long Climbs
  • Multi-Pitch Climbs
  • Outdoor climbing
  • Trad Climbing

Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

I've had an ATC, ATC XP and a Reverso. This replaces all of them. I use it with 8mm twin to 10.5mm ropes. The feed is smoother than both the ATC and XP and more variable than the Reverso. The autolock catches faster than the Reverso. Releasing the autolock to lower a climber weighting the rope is tricky, but relatively straightforward - something impossible on the Reverso. It's not the best ascender, but functional as one. It's heavy, but I wouldn't trade that for the smooth feel, flexibility, and solid reliability.

Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

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Sep

12

2007

(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

 
4.0

Good with small diameter ropes

By Bartek

from Kirkland, WA

About Me Casual/ Recreational

Site Member

Pros

    Cons

      Best Uses

      • Long Climbs
      • Outdoor climbing

      Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

      The device works nice with small diameter ropes, however belaying on thick ropes (10.5+) turns into a nightmare. The auto-locking mode is pretty handy when belaying your second from the anchor, however when the follower struggles a lot (and weights the rope habitually) device locks all the time and you need to put some effort into unlocking it. Still, excelent design overall, unless you happen to use a thick rope.

      Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

      (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

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      Sep

      4

      2007

      (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

       
      4.0

      Excellent performance

      By Chosspile

      from Boulder, CO

      About Me Avid Climber

      Site Member

      Pros

      • Autolock feature
      • Smooth belay and rappell
      • Versatile

      Cons

      • A little more bulk
      • Pricey

      Best Uses

      • Alpine climbing
      • Cragging
      • Multi-pitch

      Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

      This is the smoothest most versatile belay device I have used to date. Ropes over 10.2mm diameter don't go as smoothly because narrow opening, but smaller diameter runs silky smooth. Very good control on rappell due to variable friction, anodized metal surface makes for nice ride. Autolock function is very good with small diameter ropes ~ 8mm but larger ropes tend to have too much friction. Overall, may be best design on the market.

      Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

      (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

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      Jun

      12

      2009

       
      4.0

      Another BD Victory

      By UrbanPrimitive

      from Ann Arbor, MI

      About Me Casual/ Recreational

      Site Member

      Pros

      • Simple

      Cons

      • Heavy

      Best Uses

      • Outdoor climbing
      • Sprint Climbs

      Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

      This is a great device. I can't wait to get it out in the gorges! If you're breaking out the gram scale for every piece of gear, it may be too heavy for you. If you aren't doing big wall work or marathon alpines, it's a solid choice. The lock is solid as a rock, and it opens as though nothing happened.
      On the downside, it is a bit tight for gym ropes. I have to work to get anything above a 10.7mm rope through. It's possible, just not buttering. There's real yanking involved.
      On the other hand, when hitting actual rock I'm not lugging around anything bigger than a 10.4 anyway!
      Bottomline: Great device, auto-lock top belay feature is an arm saver, not the best choice for indoor training.

      • Gift:
      • No

      Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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      Apr

      30

      2009

       
      4.0

      Extremely Versatile Belay Device

      By Sigs

      from Alexandria, VA

      About Me Casual/ Recreational

      Site Member

      Pros

      • Simple
      • Strong Design
      • Versatile

      Cons

      • A little Heavy

      Best Uses

      • Indoor climbing
      • Long Climbs
      • Outdoor climbing

      Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

      The ATC guide performs all the versatile functions a regular ATC does (top-rope & lead belaying, double rope rappeling) and it allows you to belay from the top (with the climber below the belayer). It is a little heavy, but it's robust.

      • Gift:
      • No

      Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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      Apr

      27

      2009

       
      5.0

      catbirdseat

      By catbirdseat

      from Laguna Beach, CA

      About Me Avid Climber

      Pros

        Cons

          Best Uses

          • Long Climbs
          • Outdoor climbing

          Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

          The device has some ridges when it is new that make it rather sticky until they wear down smooth with use. Then it is just fine.

          In the Guide Mode, it works fine with 9 mm ropes, but there is far too much friction with 10.5 mm ropes. The friction is reasonable with a single 10.5 mm rope in Guide Mode.

          The carabiner that you use for Guide Mode can affect friction. It should ideally be a small HMS type so that the two strands are not forced together. Otherwise they can't be brought in independent. In a perfect world your two followers will climb at the same rate, but that isn't what happens in practice.

          • Gift:
          • No

          Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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          Mar

          22

          2009

          (0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

           
          5.0

          cool device

          By cliffhanger

          from PA

          About Me Casual/ Recreational

          Pros

          • Quick to open
          • Scratch resistant
          • Simple

          Cons

            Best Uses

            • Indoor climbing
            • Outdoor climbing
            • Rappelling
            • Sprint Climbs

            Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

            great for begenrers

            • Gift:
            • No

            Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

            (0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

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            Oct

            1

            2007

             
            4.0

            Really cool device

            By climber Nate

            from Colorado Springs, CO

            About Me Avid Climber, Getting Started

            Site Member

            Pros

            • Simple

            Cons

              Best Uses

              • Long Climbs
              • Outdoor climbing

              Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

              It's really good for when your climber stops to look for a hold and you pull the rope back and there is virtually no strain on your arms. But, sometimes when you are lowering the climber it likes to catch and therefore jerk you forward a little bit, so make sure you are anchored.

              Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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              Sep

              24

              2007

               
              5.0

              Perfect for Canyons

              By rabid hiker

              from Saint George, Utah

              About Me Casual/ Recreational

              Pros

              • Simple

              Cons

                Best Uses

                • Canyoneering
                • Long Climbs
                • Outdoor climbing
                • Rappelling

                Comments about Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device:

                Excellent controll with small diameter ropes on long rappells in confined spaces.

                Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

                Was this review helpful? Yes / No

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