Rated4out of5byPfanDistnerfromSmart AlpineI just got back from my first day of using my new smart alpine, which included sport climbing and a little toproping, and the device worked perfectly with my 9.8 mm rope and a Petzl WIlliam (bigger carabiners seem to work best). It engaged the autolock function every time I needed it to, and never when I didn't. Paying out rope and taking in slack were extremely simple and smooth. The only downside I encountered was that lowering with the Smart Alpine seems to be a little jerky at first, although I think that once I get used to it (it's true that there's a sweet spot, and hey: a GriGri isn't the smoothest when it comes time to lower either..) It'll be just a good as an ATC.
Seeing as this belay device does everything a GriGri can do, costs way less, weighs way less, and uses no mechanism to lock off (aside from a well-designed shape), I'd say everyone should start looking at this thing.
Date published: 2013-03-30
Rated5out of5byJoeDotfromWowExtremely easy to use.
I've seen countless reviews that mention this device is tough to use when paying out slack to a leader.
These folks could not be any more incorrect. Once you put it on your harness and feed in a bite of rope, it's plain to see how it works. The hooked end is for your thumb, you just pull up that end of the device, and voila!! You can feed out rope as fast as your hand can pull it.
Above all, this thing auto-blocks better than any device I've seen. I've used the ATC Guide and a Petzl Reverso 4, both of which I thought were great. But the Mammut Smart blows them out of the water. It does all the work for you once the climber weights the rope. You have to exert very minimal force with your brake hand to stop a fall or hold your climber in place.
Only downside I've found is that lowering your climber can be tricky. Theres a sweet spot when picking up the end to disengage the auto-block. It's hard to find, and if you're not in it, it's a bumpy ride for the climber on the way down. With time, you can feel it out.
You do need a large carabiner, but just about any large HMS biner should do. I've got 2 BD RockLock biners (one screw-gate, one twist-lock) and both work out fantastic.
Date published: 2013-03-22
Rated4out of5bybda9426fromGreat Belay DeviceA few months ago I was belaying a friend who was quite a bit heavier than myself, he took a fall, and my Reverso took a long time to catch his fall. Plus my hand got quite the rope burn. It was frightening for both of us! I decided that maybe it was time I get a belay device with the assisted locking feature.
I was definitely hesitant to get this piece of gear, but thought I'd try it out and decide it if fit my needs or not. YES...it sure did. Now I use this and my Reverso when climbing multi pitch, giving this to my belayer. It is a condifence booster.
Another plus is that when catching a fall, it has a dynamic arrest, allowing a little slip of the rope (amount depends on rope diameter). This is partictularly helpful in trad and alpine climbing cause it lowers the probability of pulling out an anchor.
Downsides are that it has a narrow sweet spot for rapelling, which means it tends to jerk a bit. And it needs a big biner, which could potentially put you in a fix if you drop the biner and don't have extra.
I trust it and use it all the time, totally satisfied every route!
Date published: 2012-10-02
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