Expert Advice > Snowboard Bindings Installation

Snowboard Bindings Installation

Installing and adjusting snowboard bindings is a pretty simple do-it-yourself task. It requires only a couple of tools and usually about an hour or less.

Unlike ski bindings, snowboard bindings have no quick-release mechanisms that require a technician's skill to fine-tune DIN settings. When you strap on snowboard bindings, you are at one with your board—inextricably linked together on every run and every wipeout.

Prep Work

Gather Tools

What you'll need:

A No. 3 Phillips screwdriver (to mount the bindings).
An adjustable wrench to fit the bindings to your boots.
Optionally: A multitool that includes a No. 2 or 3 Phillips screwdriver head and, ideally, an adjustable wrench. Or use the Burton Bullet Tool , shown in our video presentation. Compact and handy.

Know Left from Right

Each pair of bindings has a left foot and a right foot. You can spot the difference by the direction of the curve in the forefoot, just like with a shoe or a boot. Still unsure? When correctly buckled, each strap starts on the inside or the boot and buckles on the outside.

Stance

Determining your ideal stance is topic that generates no shortage of opinions among snowboarders. Listen to views that knowledgeable friends share with you, but ultimately the best decision will be determined by you and your understanding of your riding style.

Our best advice: When starting out or if it doubt, keep it simple. Start by placing your board on the floor (preferably a carpeted floor). Stand on it. Envision yourself descending a mountain. Mimic how you would position yourself during such a descent. Observe your feet. That's a decent starting point for determining stance width and angle, though you're likely to tinker with these things your entire snowboarding career.

Here are some questions to answer:

Which Is Your Lead Foot?

As a snowboarder, you need to know if you ride regular or goofyfoot. Here's the difference:

Regular: The left foot rides in front, the right foot in back.
Goofyfoot: Right foot forward, left foot back.

Which is right for you? Whichever comes naturally. If you have ever ridden a skateboard, surfboard or skimboard, the lead foot you used during any of those activities will likely be the same one you'll use on a snowboard.

Here are 2 other ways to determine your stance preference:

Imagine if you wanted to slide across a smooth surface on your feet, like skimming across a patch of ice on a sidewalk. Which would you choose to be your lead foot? Your answer indicates whether you are regular or goofy.
Stand with feet spread shoulder-width apart. Either 1) lean forward until you begin to fall, or 2) ask a friend to give you a modest shove from behind without warning. In both cases you will naturally respond by extending 1 foot forward. Whichever foot you use is your recommended lead foot.

What Connection Points Are on Your Board?

Snowboards come equipped with some type of binding interface, most often as dual clusters of bolt holes on either side of the board's midpoint. Your options:

4x4: Holes are spaced 4cm apart vertically (tip to tail) and horizontally (edge to edge).
2x4: Same as above except more vertical holes are provided, spaced just 2cm apart. The extra holes give a rider more stance options.
3D: A diamond-shape pattern found only on Burton boards. Opinions vary on whether this approach offers any benefits over straight rows of bolt holes.
Channel: This Burton-only design uses slots instead of bolt holes. Channel works best with Burton's EST bindings (Extra Sensory Technology, if you were wondering), which permit very specific, minutely customized settings. A separate kit exists that modifies Burton's 3D bindings to work with the Channel system, but the EST bindings are the best match. EST bindings can be positioned to allow a rider's feet to sit almost flat atop the board itself, enhancing a rider's connection to the board.

Parts of a Snowboard Binding

Centered or Setback?

If using bolt-mounting holes, you can attach your bindings to these holes in 1 of 2 ways:

Centered (in other words, zero stance setback): This stance allows a board to turn easily and gives a rider a feeling of good control. Excellent for riding switch; freestyle riders like the balanced feeling it provides.

Setback (a.k.a. offset): Slightly set back from center. This is often the preferred stance for riders who enjoy the directional control they get from being closer to the back of the board. This can keep a board's tip out of soft snow—good when you're in powder, not so great in the park.

Setback can be customized according to rider preference:

No setback/shallow setback: From negative to less than 1" (2.5cm). Moves body weight further over a rider's front foot, permitting faster riding. This stance setback is most frequently used by skilled, experienced riders, either on steep backcountry terrain or when pursuing fast descents on groomed runs.
Normal setback: Around 1" (2.5cm). Creates the quicker responsiveness of a shorter board with a stiff tail; permits more aggressive turns, enhances flotation in powder. This is a good choice for most riders with a powder focus.
Deep setback: Up to 2" (5cm). Best for deep powder; prevents nose from sinking. Turning, however, is challenging and riding switch becomes awkward.

What Is Your Best Stance Width?

What stance width is: The distance between your feet (or the center of both bindings) when strapped in. When new, many boards include a suggested stance width, and many riders simply use that preset position. That can be a good idea. However, if that stance feels a little narrow, realize this: Most riders find their preferred stance is a little wider than the width of your shoulders—about 1½" wider for each foot. Sample a different width or 2; choose your stance width according to your own preferences.

What stance width does: Affects a rider's control of a board as follows:

Wide stance: Stable, better for speed and long-radius turns; often preferred by freeriders.
Narrow stance: Not quite as stable but easier to turn; good for novices and freestyle/park riders who attempt fast rotations.

What Is Your Best Stance Angle?

What stance angle is: The angle a mounted binding creates when it intersects a snowboard's longitudinal axis (its length). For example, a binding mounted perpendicular to a board's length would be 0°.

When choosing your stance angle, your goals are:

Position your knees in a natural, comfortable position.
Avoid letting toes overhang the board's edge. (If your toes do hang over, your solution may not be choosing a more radical angle for your binding; you may need a wider board.)

Start with your front binding. Look at its circular base plate. The disc includes gear like teeth that can be adjusted in 3° increments.

What stance angle to choose: Opinions on this topic vary dramatically. Professional, aggressive or specialized riders may choose outlandish angles that exceed the abilities of most riders. What we offer here is general guidance:

Toes pointed forward (toward a board's tip) mean the binding has a positive angle, indicated by a plus sign (e.g., +21°). Nearly everyone positions their front foot positively, with the rear foot angled more neutrally, usually 15° to 18° less than the front foot.
A commonly used all-mountain stance, popular among novices, is +15° front/-3° rear, meaning the rear foot is angled slightly toward the tail of a board. Technically, this is called a duck stance . Rental boards are often set up at +9° front/-9° rear. The technician in our video suggests +15° front/-6°. Obviously, opinions vary. Generally, though, +15° front/-3° is a good starting point. Experiment with different angles until one feels right to you.
Park riders, whose direction of travel changes with each spin of the board, usually prefer a duck stance because it makes it easier to ride switch when riding nondirectional, twin-tip boards. In addition, many advanced all-mountain riders embrace the duck stance as their stance of choice for the overall control it offers in varying terrain.
Aggressive riders may set up dramatically positive angles for both feet with perhaps only 5° difference between the front and rear foot. One industry insider tells us any front stance that nears 30° is in aggressive territory and that it is unwise for anyone to exceed 45°. Inevitably, though, some will try.
New riders: Keep in mind that you can play with all aspects of stance to tailor it to your comfort and performance needs

If using +15° front, line up the number 15 on the base plate with the tick mark on the binding over your chosen screw holes. Turn the first screw in loosely. Moving diagonally, insert the second screw, then the third and the fourth. With the screws still loose, center them and tighten. Just don't overtighten.

Repeat the process on the back binding. Negative numbers are sometimes not marked on base plates. In that case, count counterclockwise from 0° until you reach your desired tick mark.

Use your wrench to make small adjustments to straps to customize their fit on the boots. You can remove the bolts at the base of the ankle straps, move the strap inward or outward, then replace the bolts.