How to Choose Rock Climbing Shoes

Bio

Rock climbing shoes are the interface between you and the rock, and the wrong fit or style will hold you back. While most climbers own more than a single pair of shoes, the staple in everyone's collection is a versatile pair of all-day comfort shoes. As your climbing goals and style develop, add shoes that address different demands of the sport. Here's what to consider when shopping.

Know Your Climbing Goals

Consider your agenda: Gym climbing? Bouldering? Faces? Cracks? Off-widths? On a climbing trip to Mazama, Wash., I wore everything from super-light approach shoes on the switchbacks up to Concord Tower and Liberty Bell to downturned lace-ups on steep, edgy Fun Rock. I could have gotten by with a single pair, but having different shoes for multiple pitches of cracks and for overhanging sport routes made both experiences more enjoyable. Plus, I climbed better with shoes designed for specific disciplines. If you are aiming for multi-pitch 5.8 routes, don't buy a tight-fitting bouldering shoe.

Your most versatile choice is in the all-day comfort category. These shoes work well for indoor and outdoor climbing at novice to intermediate levels. If this is your first shoe, fit it so it feels like a running shoe but with the tip of your longest toe just touching the end of the shoe. If you are focusing on a specific type of climbing (e.g., cracks, crystals or overhanging rock) match your shoe to suit your purpose.

More experienced climbers own multiple pairs of shoes. Start with a pair of all-day comfort shoes and then add shoes as your climbing abilities and objectives develop. Rotate your shoes to help develop footwork, since each specific model climbs a bit differently. This approach also helps prevent hotspots that can develop when you wear the same pair of shoes day after day.

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Shoe Construction 101

Materials

Shoe uppers are either leather or synthetic. Leather shoes (lined and unlined) offer the easiest care, including deodorizing. Most performance shoes are synthetic, and many vegetarians and vegans prefer synthetic shoes.

Unlined leather: Unlined leather shoes can stretch up to a full size. Size them so that your toes just touch the end of the shoe, so you can feel (but not see) your toe knuckles pushing against the leather. Be aware that an all-leather shoe tends to bleed shoe colors to your foot.

Lined leather: When a leather upper is lined, stretch is reduced to a half size or less. Sometimes manufacturers line only the toes since it saves money and impacts where stretch is the biggest problem.

Synthetic materials: A synthetic shoe doesn't stretch much. It does soften up slightly with use, but there is little give, much less than a ¼ size. Perforated synthetic uppers give a bit more than a solid fabric. Newer synthetic upper materials help make this category better at breathing and wicking away sweat.

Closure Systems

Lace-ups: This is the traditional, most versatile style. Many styles are laced with a ¼ to 1½ -inch space between the holes. When your feet get hot and swell up, or for walk-off routes, you can loosen the laces. But for a difficult pitch or climb, crank down at the toe and instep to bump up the shoe's performance.

Hook-and-loop: These closures (also known descriptively as "rip-and-stick") offer superior on/off convenience. They are ideal for bouldering and gym climbing.

Slippers: These slip-on shoes with elastic closure systems offer the greatest sensitivity and lowest profile of any shoe. Slippers are fun for training—without a traditionally stiff sole and midsole, your feet will get stronger, faster. Because slippers don't have the extra bulk of laces or a hook-and-loop closure system, they have a lower-profile, a fact appreciated by the world's top thin crack climbers. You can also pack them along as travel companions since they are light, stowable and slip easily into a daypack or suitcase.

Last

A "last" is a solid foot-shaped model around which a shoe is built. The last gives shoes their anatomical definition: instep height and volume, heel and toe dimensions and width. While mountaineering and hiking boots are often board-lasted (the upper of the shoe is stitched, then glued or stitched to midsole and sole), most modern rock climbing shoes are slip-lasted (sewn like a sock around the last). The "sock" is removed from the last and the midsole (stiffener) is glued on. The sole is then glued to the midsole, and the rand is stretched to the proper tension and glued.

Last Shape

In a tennis or running shoe, the last gives the shoe 100% of its shape, Rock shoes, however, have tensioned rubber along their sides, so the shape of the last gives only a partial clue to its final fit. Keep in mind that a last doesn't impact the shoe's stiffness—that is a function of midsole material, thickness of the rubber outsole and rand design. Most lasts fall into 2 categories:

• Semi-flexed: Also known as traditional lasts, these are the most comfortable option. If the last has rocker, it means that the toe turns up slightly to allow the foot to roll. All-day rock shoes (and approach shoes) have a slight upward rocker (like a running shoe).
• Cambered: Also called "down-turned," this last shape bends slightly downward toward the toes. It is found in specialty shoes designed for toe and heel hooking on overhanging rock. They are most appropriate for difficult routes and competitions when you need maximum performance and control.

Weight

Weight is a big factor in hiking boots when an extra pound on your feet can feel like a dozen on a long day. With climbing shoes, though, the difference is just a few grams. There's an argument that " lighter is righter" in terms of carrying equipment up a climb. But for most mortals, the difference of a couple of hundred grams is not critical to success. Thicker soles, full-grain leather, wider rands and more rubber on the upper add to weight but also durability (and in some cases, positively affect performance). When you compare climbing shoe weight, make sure you compare like-sized shoes.

Women's (Low-Volume) Models

Regardless of your gender, don't rule out a so-called women's specific model. These are generally cut lower around the ankle and have a smaller heel cup. They also may have a slightly longer toe bed and lower volume forefoot than their unisex cousins. The women's category has produced so many good designs that men with low-volume feet make up a significant part of the customer base.

Kids' Shoes

Climbing is great exercise for kids and makes for a terrific family outing. You can rent children's rock shoes at your local climbing gym, but it's way more efficient and fun for them to have their own gear, especially if you're climbing outdoors. My husband and I have brought our 3 daughters to the cliffs since they were babies. They use their shoes on real rock and in the gym. Kids' feet grow quickly, but children's shoes are stiff enough that they can wear them bigger than can an adult. Fit them about a size too big—children prefer a relaxed, almost tennis-shoe fit. As your child's skill level increases, so will the size of his or her foot. Stick with hook-and-loop closure systems until children can tie their own laces. Shoes help encourage kids to climb and can be handed down for many seasons.

How to Fit a Rock Shoe

Fit is the most important factor in finding a good pair of rock shoes. If possible, compare and try on a variety of models.

Tip #1: Shop in the Afternoon

Your feet can swell up to a full size during the day. Go for a walk, run or, better yet, climb before you shop. Keep in mind that you'll most likely be wearing the shoe sans socks, since the inside of shoes are designed to work with skin to reduce slippage. If your plans involve cold, alpine conditions that require a sock, buy an all-day comfort shoe a half-size too big.

Tip #2: The Only Sure Way Is to Try Them On

Ideally, you should shop in person so you can easily try on multiple sizes. If you are buying online, you can always order more than one size and return what doesn't fit. Try on shoes at home to make sure there are no hotspots. When I get new climbing shoes, I generally wear them for a half-hour while watching TV. Since I'm not walking around, I don't risk scuffing them up. If they are comfortable but snug after a half hour, they generally are the size I need. The shape of a rock shoe is determined by the last, rand tension and rubber coverage.

Tip #3: Be Flexible When It Comes to Size

There is no rock-shoe sizing standard, and everybody's feet are different. You may wear a size 10 street shoe but need a size 8 climbing shoe for a performance fit and a size 9 in the same model for all-day use. Other size considerations:

• Rock shoes come in U.S., European and United Kingdom sizes. Check shoe charts for size translations.
• Keep in mind that a size 42 from one brand will fit differently than a size 42 in another. All rock shoe companies have multiple lasts, and every time they change rubber, upper materials or the design, it changes the fit—even with the same last.
• Different models incorporate changes in volume, width and rocker height so each fits differently.
• When you try on a lace-up shoe, undo the laces completely and then tighten them accordingly from toe to ankle.

Tip #4: Know Your Foot and Toe Shape

What's the shape of your foot? Do you have a narrow heel? A low-volume arch? A wide foot? Each shoe model fits differently. Most important for climbing is to know your toe shape. Is your big toe the longest or do you have a Morton's Toe (second toe is longer than big toe)? A shoe's toe shape is described as:

Flat or traditional: This toe-shape is most similar to a snug-fitting walking shoe. It offers a comfortable toe shape ideal for moderate to intermediate climbs. Sometimes these toe boxes are described as "generous" or "roomy." Shoes with flat toes can be designed for all-day comfort, steep face climbing or crack climbing.

Pointy: Shoes with a pointy, low-profile toe are designed to better fit into pockets and cracks.

Symmetrical: The longest part of these shoes is closer to the middle toe than the big toe. These shoes fit people with Morton's Toe better than an asymmetrical model. You can generally use these shoes in the gym, on faces, in cracks and for all-day climbs.

Asymmetrical: The longest point is over the big toe. Some shoes merely follow the anatomical shape of a foot that has the biggest toe as the longest point; a few radically asymmetrical designs push the toe point even farther to the inside of the shoe to increase power over the big toe and inside edge. Shoes with a radically asymmetrical toe are generally designed for bouldering or gym climbing.

Down-turned: Also called a "cambered" shoe, these are designed for moves on overhanging rock. The toe position allows climbers to pull in with their feet.

Tip # 5: Know What Fit You Want

In the old days, rock shoes had to be fit tightly (and painfully) to work, but modern shoes do not need to fit painfully—in fact, foot pain will prevent you from climbing to your full potential and may cause problems like blisters, bunions and calluses.

While no climbing shoe should be painful, you do get more performance out of a shoe in which your toes are slightly bent at the knuckles. As the slingshot heel rand (a piece of rubber that wraps around the heel and connects to the midsole on both sides of the foot) becomes tighter (more aggressive), the foot is pushed forward in the shoe. This positions the toes more powerfully, but also keeps them in a curved to crimped position. However, many top climbers prefer a shoe with a relaxed fit—especially the ones who have abused their feet in too-tight shoes!

Some general fitting rules:

• Avoid dead space between your toes and the inside of the shoe since the shoe will not stay rigid when you place your toes on a foothold.
• Make sure your toes are flat or comfortably curved and that your toe knuckles aren't bunched painfully against the top of the shoe.
• Your heel should have a snug fit. When you are standing on your toe, ensure the back of the shoe doesn't pinch the bottom of your Achilles tendon.
• Everyone's feet bend differently, but if a shoe is difficult to slip on your foot, it is probably too tight.

As you start to develop your footwork, you will probably move into more activity-specific models—stiffer, more protective shoes for crack climbing, even snugger shoes with thinner, more flexible midsoles and soles for bouldering and gym climbing, and shoes that balance edging and smearing abilities for steep sport climbs and nearly-vertical faces. In general, the higher performance the shoe, the tighter the fit.

Rock Shoe FAQs

Q: Does the type of rubber matter?

A: Sticky, high-friction sole rubber revolutionized rock climbing in the 1980s, and climbing-specific rubber compounds continue to improve today. While shoe designs are often copied (unless they are patented), their top-secret rubber formulation can't be easily duplicated. There are many types of rubber, and the rubber industry spends millions annually on R & D. Rubbers have different performance and durability characteristics but basically the stickier the rubber, the harder you will be able to climb. To gauge the "stickiness" of a rubber, use your fingernail or a dime and push it into the rubber's surface. Then twist slightly. High-friction rock climbing rubber will conform to your fingernail and hold the shape rather than pushing away from the object. Note that rubber performance can be affected by heat, cold and moisture.

Q: Should I buy a men's or women's shoe?

A: Buy whatever shoe fits your foot the best. If you have a low-volume, narrow foot, a shoe designed on a "women's" specific last might be the right choice. Men with narrow or low-volume feet should definitely consider women's models. When women buy unisex shoes, they must adjust their size accordingly; men buying women's models can also expect to wear a different size.

Q: Do higher priced shoes offer more performance?

A: Manufacturers tend to use their newest technology and most expensive materials in their higher priced shoes. Because the cost of rubber is directly related to the price of oil, rubber can be the most expensive part of a climbing shoe. This means that shoes with advanced compounds are generally pricier. Modern boulder problems and sport climbs have increased emphasis on toe and heel hooking, so rand rubber needs to cover more of the shoe, which also increases price and weight. Finally, high-performance synthetics cost more but provide solutions to breathability, moisture wicking, odor control and stretch.

Q: How do I fit shoes when I'm ordering off the internet?

A: Whenever possible, try shoes on before buying. But if you can't, pay attention to each shoe's specifications. Unless you are sure of your size, you might consider bracketing your regular size with additional pairs, trying them on at home and then sending back the ones that don't fit. Caution: Buying a highly specialized shoe before you are ready for highly specialized climbing will hinder your progress.

Q: Can I resole my climbing shoes?

A: If the rand and upper are in good shape, climbing shoes can be resoled to extend their life. Many climbers use resoled shoes for training and save their new pair for difficult routes. Many children's shoes can also be resoled with high-friction rubber. While do-it-yourself resole kits are the least expensive way to go, a good climbing shoe resoler assures you of a first-rate job to increase the longevity of your shoe.

Rock Shoe Glossary

Last: A last is a solid foot-shaped model around which a shoe is built. The last gives shoes their anatomical definition—instep height and volume, heel and toe dimensions and width. Most rock climbing shoes are slip lasted—sewn like a sock around the last.

Midsole: This is an internal stiffener between the footbed (the material on which the bottom of your foot rests) and the outsole (more commonly known as the sole). Midsoles are proprietary materials (generally pressed synthetic fibers or cardboard) and are designed to support the foot and increase power in the toe box. A stiffer midsole supports the foot by distributing weight. Shoes with stiff midsoles are good for edging and for protecting the feet in cracks. A more flexible midsole enhances the smearing capability of a shoe.

Rand: The rand is the strip of rubber that covers the perimeter of the rock shoe between the sole and the upper. Toe rands are essential because they provide an interface with the rock. Rand rubber barely touches the ground and can be made cheaper than high-performance sticky rubber. Most climbers won't notice the difference in rand performance unless they are using the entire shoe for toe and heel hooks.

Slingshot heel rand: This strip of leather is critical in the shoe's shape and fit. The slingshot heel rand defines the shape of the shoe and keeps the toes forward. The slingshot gains importance with leather uppers, since good toe position is critical to climbing shoe performance.

Toe box shape: Traditionally, climbing shoes were nearly symmetrical on both sides. Now toe boxes have become more ergonomically correct. Shoes with an asymmetrical toe have the point of the shoe positioned over the anatomic position of most people's big toes. Radically asymmetrical toes position even more weight over the big toe and inside edge. Toe boxes can also be pointy for pockets, low-volume for cracks, or downturned for overhangs.

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