Choosing the right footwear may well be the most important decision you make as a hiker
or backpacker. The shoes or boots you choose must be comfortable, durable and protective,
mile after mile.
Quick Read
- Shop for boots or shoes based on your planned activity. Mountaineering boots must
be much heavier and more substantial than day-hiking boots.
- Learn about the materials used in hiking footwear. Do you need heavy, waterproof
materials or lighter-weight, breathable ones?
- Consider how boot construction will affect your activity.
- Get your feet measured properly and then try on the boots with the appropriate
socks. Take a test walk on a flat surface and then an incline and check for any
slippage or discomfort.
What Kinds of Trips Do You Have Planned?
Outdoor footwear can be divided into a few basic categories. Begin your search for the
right boots or shoes by focusing on the category that best matches your hiking or
backpacking plans.
-
Light hiking—These boots (and trail shoes) are designed
principally for day hiking. They focus on light weight, flexibility, comfort and
breathability. As a result, they are less supportive and durable than your other
options.
-
Hiking and backpacking—These boots (and a few shoes) are
designed for on- and off-trail hiking with light to moderate loads. They are more
durable and supportive than lightweight hiking boots, but they are still intended
primarily for short to moderate trips over easy to moderate terrain.
-
Extended backpacking and mountaineering—These boots are designed
for on- and off-trail, multiday hiking with moderate to heavy backpacking loads. Durable
and supportive, they provide a high degree of ankle and foot protection. Some of these
models are designed specifically for rough terrain with heavy backpacking loads. They
offer the very best in durability, support and protection. Most are stiff enough to
accept crampons for snow/ice travel.
Which Cut Is Right for You?
-
Low-cut shoes—These are fine for lightweight travel, but they
provide less roll-resistance for ankle joints. Plus, on muddy routes or trails filled
with scree, grit or sand, it's tough to keep this debris out of your shoes. They're a
good choice for lighter loads on maintained trails.
-
Mid-cut boots—These wrap around your ankles and offer some
cushioning and protection from debris and hazards. They're a smart pick for shorter
multiday trips with moderate loads.
-
High-cut boots—These give you leverage and ankle support on
irregular trails or cross-country routes. If you routinely carry heavier loads, high
cuts make good sense. Take the time to break them in before starting a long-distance
trip.
Know Your Upper Materials
The materials used in a given boot or trail shoe will affect its weight, breathability,
durability and water resistance. Since boots made of different fabrics can be very similar
in performance, however, personal preference is often the key when choosing between them.
-
Full-grain leather—This is your best choice for durability and
abrasion resistance. It resists water very well, too. It's used primarily in backpacking
boots built for extended trips, heavy loads and rugged terrain. Full-grain leather is
not as lightweight or breathable as nylon/split grain combinations. It usually requires
a break-in period.
-
Split-grain leather—This material is usually paired with nylon
or nylon mesh to offer lightweight, breathable comfort. Split-grain leather splits away
the inner part of the cowhide from the smooth exterior. It tends to be softer on your
feet, takes less time to break in and is lighter than full-grain leather. These boots
also cost less. The downside is that they are a bit less resistant to water and abrasion
than full-grain leather boots (although styles that feature waterproof liners can be
just as watertight).
-
Nubuck leather—Nubuck is full-grain leather that has been buffed
to resemble suede. It is very durable and resists water and abrasion. It usually
requires a break-in period.
-
Synthetic materials—Polyester, nylon and so-called "synthetic
leather" are all commonly used materials. They are lighter than actual leather, break in
quickly and usually cost a bit less. The downside is that they may show wear sooner.
-
Waterproof linings—Waterproof, breathable membranes (such as
Gore-Tex® XCR or eVent®) are bonded to the uppers of many boots to help keep feet dry.
These barriers are available in a variety of boot styles, from lightweight hikers to
mountaineering models. Boots made with Gore-Tex keep feet dry in wet environments with a
slight trade-off in breathability.
TIP: The waterproofness (or water resistance) of your hiking boots depends significantly
on how well you treat them. Be sure to follow all care instructions that come with your
boots so that they can perform well and last a long time.
Construction and Components
Upper Construction
The more seams a boot or shoe has, the higher the risk for leaks and blow-outs. Leaking
occurs when water seeps through the needle holes or spaces between the boot panels.
Blow-outs occur when general wear, repeated flexing or a snag causes a stitch to break and
two panels to separate. In general, the fewer seams an upper has, the more water-resistant
and more durable it will be.
The Connection Between Upper and Sole
Hiking boot soles these days are typically cemented to the rest of the boot. Faster and
less expensive than traditional stitching methods, cementing creates durable, long-lasting
bonds (how long depends upon the process and specific adhesives used).
The answer is yes for mountaineering boots and most backpacking boots. It's no for most
light hiking footwear, because new-generation materials and designs lack the structure
necessary to accept new soles. Plus, resoling can be costly, making it less feasible for
lower-cost footwear. When in doubt, have a local cobbler evaluate your footwear. If none is
available, one option is Seattle-based cobbler Dave Page (davepagecobbler.com).
Midsole Materials
Midsoles of hiking footwear usually feature EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate) or
polyurethane. Both absorb shock and provide cushioning. Generally, EVA is a bit lighter,
while polyurethane is a little more durable.
Support Components
Hidden inside hiking footwear are a variety of components designed to lessen trail shock
and provide support for your feet.
-
Shanks—These are inserts made of steel, plastic or nylon. They
add load-bearing stiffness to the midsole of a shoe or boot.
-
Plates—These thin, semiflexible inserts serve two functions: 1)
They help stabilize your forefoot, and 2) They protect your feet from getting bruised by
roots or uneven rocks.
-
TPU—This stands for thermoplastic urethane. It's commonly used
in flexible plates or other shoe stabilization devices.
Outsole Materials
Most outdoor footwear uses rubber or Vibram® rubber outsoles. Vibram brand outsoles are
well-known for their grip and durability.
Get the Right Fit
Once you've narrowed down your options to a handful of boots or shoes, the best way to
decide between them is to try them on and give them a test drive. A good fit involves:
- Foot length
- Foot width
- Volume
The first two can be measured with a Brannock Device. The third, volume, refers to the
space your foot occupies, top to bottom, inside a shoe. A high-volume foot may feel snug in
some footwear; a low-volume foot may feel too loose. If you have a high-instep (the top of
your foot near your ankle), you likely have a high-volume foot.
Different brands and styles will fit different combinations of width and volume. A good
fit allows you to easily wiggle your toes inside the footwear. Feet should not slide around
inside footwear. Good-fitting boots hold feet firmly without binding.
When trying on shoes, walk on inclines and declines. If you detect heel-lift on
inclines, adjust the tension of your laces atop the instep and try the incline again. On
declines, toes should not feel too compacted in the toebox.
TIPS: Bring along a pair of your own hiking socks when trying on shoes in store. And
it's best to try on footwear later in the day; feet tend to swell a bit during the day.
Boot Care Basics
Keep your boots and trail shoes clean between uses by brushing off dirt and mud as both
can ruin leather over time. Most fabric boots and shoes can be washed on the outside with
mild soap and water. Avoid using detergent.
If your boots get drenched, stuff them loosely with newspaper and dry them in a warm
place. Never rush the drying process by placing them near a fire, heater or other heat
source.
Boots need to be conditioned from time to time, especially if they're made of leather.
This is true whether you hike in dry, hot conditions or wet, temperate ones.
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