What's the best way to clean Gore-Tex and other rainwear? How about cleaning soft shells? Fleece? Wool? Wicking fabrics? Can any detergent do the job? This article covers care for all of these so-called "technical" clothing fabrics.
The following tips apply to all fabrics mentioned in this article:
Rainwear needs routine cleaning and maintenance to perform at its best. An important but often overlooked maintenance step is the periodic revival of rainwear’s durable water repellent (DWR) finish. The face fabric (exterior) of all waterproof/breathable rainwear is treated with a DWR. By making the effort to maintain it, you will reap the benefits on rainy days.
DWR cleaning, maintenance and revival are briefly addressed later in this article. For a detailed explanation, please refer to our separate article that offers a complete guide to the process: Rainwear: DWR Care.
Frequency of cleaning depends on individual usage. The makers of both Gore-Tex and eVent laminates encourage regular washings for optimal WP/BR performance. A general benchmark: Wash a waterproof/breathable (WP/BR) garment at least once a year, or more often when the need for cleaning is obvious (whenever the buildup of dirt or salt residue becomes noticeable). Washings enhance breathability. A few dozen washings over time, though, may eventually diminish the DWR by themselves.
Primary contaminants that impact WP/BR performance:
Note: Many bug repellents include DEET, which acts as a solvent on some materials. (Keep it off your golf club grips, for example.) It won’t cause fabric to melt away, but exposing WP/BR fabric to DEET could potentially cause leakage at those contact points. Gore-Tex and eVent both say their membranes are not compromised by DEET, but it can't hurt to be careful when applying it. Coatings may be more susceptible to DEET's impact.
Specialized cleaning products (such as those from Granger’s, Nikwax, ReviveX and Sport-Wash) are recommended for technical rainwear by many manufacturers .
If you do use a mass-market laundry product, follow any specific guidelines for such detergents provided by the garment manufacturer. Be vigilant to thoroughly rinse a garment to remove surfactant residue. (Two rinses are often recommended.) These additives may help your cotton jeans resist staining and appear bright, but they can negatively impact the performance of technical fabrics.
Prewash stain removers:
Stain removal:
Washing method:
Wash cycle tips:
Rinse cycle:
When a standard laundry product is used, 2 rinses are usually advised to remove all reside.
Drying:
Tumble dry, low heat or hang dry. Following manufacturer directions.
Things to avoid:
Here's some guidance for a few well-known WP/BR brands:
Note: Any garment's specific manufacturer care instructions supersede these general tips for Gore-Tex laminates:
DWR maintenance (needed when water no longer beads up on a garment's face fabric; for a detailed explanation of this key maintenance step, read our complete guide on the topic, Rainwear: DWR Care):
Note: Any garment's specific manufacturer care instructions supersede these general tips for eVent laminates:
DWR maintenance (needed when water no longer beads up on a garment's face fabric; for expanded details, see our complete guide, Rainwear: DWR Care):
REI Elements is an umbrella brand name that represents an assortment of WP/BR treatments (both laminates and coatings) used in REI outerwear. Due to the variety of technologies employed, it is imperative to follow specific care recommendations included with each garment.
The evolving soft-shell category has branched off into subgroups:
Nearly all soft shells have face fabrics that are treated with a DWR finish. A DWR requires periodic revival to be consistently effective at shedding moisture.
Frequency of cleaning depends on individual usage. Soft shells (classic soft shells in particular) are popular among fast-moving, high-exertion outdoor athletes, so perspiration, dirt and odor build-up can accumulate quickly. When they do, put them in the wash. All soft shells breathe better when clean.
Cleaning guidance for soft shells mirrors much of the laundering advice for waterproof/breathable garments already explained above. We'll briefly summarize:
General guidance for specialized soft shells:
Drying:
Tumble dry low or warm; 10-15 minutes or until dry to the touch; or hang dry.
Things to avoid:
DWR maintenance:
When a waterproof or water-resistant garment is new, any moisture that falls on its exterior (face fabric) quickly beads up and—zip!—slides right off. It's a thing of high-tech textile beauty, and such action is due to the presence of a durable water repellent on the fabric.
Over time, a DWR loses some of its effectiveness. Why? Dirt, body oils, perspiration, launderings and abrasion all have an impact. When water stops beading up and instead starts soaking in and creating wet splotches on the face fabric, the fibers are absorbing water and the garment will feel heavier. The DWR either needs revival or reapplication.
This is an important maintenance step many people overlook. For a detailed explanation of durable water repellents, we recommend that you read our complete guide, Rainwear: DWR Care.
Here are a few highlights:
Modern fleece garments are insulation pieces constructed almost exclusively from synthetic fibers (typically 100% polyester, a type of plastic). Such fibers are heat-sensitive. If a dryer is used, choose a low temperature setting. Synthetic fibers could potentially melt if exposed to high heat.
Some fleece or fleece-like garments are given DWR finishes to make them weather-resistant, making them quite similar to soft shells. Be sure to follow manufacturer care instructions provided with individual fleece garments. Sometimes this information is hidden on tags inside pockets.
"Pilling" is a flaw that plagued early generations of polyester fleece. It occurs when fibers pull away from yarns due to friction or excessive time spent in a clothes dryer. These frayed fibers can form tiny clumps by the hundreds on fleece surfaces.
Happily, modern fleece is pill-resistant thanks to improved finishing methods, the use of microfibers and other higher-grade fibers. Pilling is still possible (so be skeptical of claims of "nonpilling" fleece), but the risk is significantly reduced.
Tip: If you own a cherished fleece item that appears hopelessly pilled, try shaving away the pills. Seriously. Take a disposable razor and lightly, carefully stroke the garment's surface to shave away pills. This process dulls blades quickly, so several razors likely will be needed to complete the job on any sizable garment.
The following general guidelines can apply to most fleece and microfiber products:
Frequency of cleaning depends on usage and how quickly you accumulate dirt, stains or odors. Synthetic fleece is a fairly robust fabric. Feel no hesitancy to wash it often.
Specialized cleaning products (such as those from Granger’s, Nikwax, ReviveX and Sport-Wash) are available for fleece, though mass-market laundry products or delicate-care products are usually acceptable.
Residues are less of an issue with fleece. However, some detergents may include additives that could cause fleece to mat or compact, impacting its ability to insulate. If you notice this happening, change detergents. Also: Residues can possibly impact color quality. Consider using a mild or specialized soap if a garment's color is important to you.
For an extra-high level of care:
For its products in general, Polartec suggests:
Fleece is sometimes bonded to laminates or wind-buffering barriers to deliver specialized performance attributes and may require special handling instructions. Definitely inspect your garment for specific cleaning and handling directions.
Synthetic fabrics used in wicking base layers (typically 100% polyester) are designed to transport moisture (sweat) and hasten its evaporation. They're so comfortable and functional that they are routinely worn for workouts (indoor and outdoor) or daily use.
As a result, base layers are the technical fabric that most often lands in everyday laundry loads. This means they are commonly exposed to mass-market laundry products.
This is generally not considered to be a problem, though keeping them free of detergent residues could potentially give them a slight performance boost. Thus a specialized cleaning product (seek out choices from Granger's, Nikwax, ReviveX and Sport-Wash) or a "Clear" or "Free" variety of detergent would be good choices. A thorough rinsing is advised. If your washer permits adjustable rinse cycles, choose the longest cycle available.
Decades ago, polypropylene was the synthetic wicking material in widest use. It fell out of favor due to its tendency to retain perspiration odors. Polyester eventually became the wicking fabric of choice, though some people grumble that it, too, has a proclivity to retain odors (though not polypropylene's level). Tips for odor avoidance:
Frequency of cleaning: Regularly.
Follow any specific laundering instructions provided on your garment. Otherwise, general guidelines for this category include:
Merino wool garments designed for performance use are usually machine-washable. That's not always so with woolen fashion apparel, where hand-washing is often required. Yet most merino wool items designed for athletic or recreational use (socks, base layers, tops) can be tossed in the washer. (Front-loaders preferred.) Always check manufacturer care instructions on any wool item before laundering.
Shrinkage is one of wool's enemies. Moisture, heat and friction are the principle forces that cause it. To combat shrinkage, merino wool used for performance-wear garments typically undergoes a "superwash" process (involving chlorine) early in its production cycle. This shrinkage-resistant treatment masks the natural scales on individual wool fibers.
When exposed to a slippery solution such as detergent, these scales (which resemble irregularly stacked cones) migrate in one direction—toward the root, a reaction that causes the scales of the fiber to lock together, creating a very strong, irreversible bond. As the fibers lock together, the fabric actually shrinks. This is called "felting shrinkage" and is unique to wool.
The superwash process, though, greatly minimizes felting shrinkage. It makes merino wool garments capable of safely weathering the agitation and spinning actions involved in machine washing.
The people at SmartWool share an additional observation: Beyond felting shrinking, another type of shrinkage can impact wool—relaxation shrinkage.
Fabrics are knit under tension (a stretched condition). During initial home launderings water lubricates natural fibers, enabling them to return to a more natural/relaxed/less-stretched state. This is why a cotton T-shirt shrinks the first few time it’s washed.
The same thing happens with wool. Depending on the knit, wool garments are vulnerable to varying degrees of relaxation shrinkage.
The tighter the knit, the less potential for relaxation shrinkage. Base layers, for example, are knit tightly. Tight construction permits safe machine-drying with minimal risk of shrinkage. Fashion sweaters, meanwhile, have a looser knit and may shrink more. Accordingly, SmartWool recommends laying fashion items flat to dry.
Yet even the most tightly knit fabrics will experience a minor amount of shrinkage. SmartWool says it takes this into account when sizing machine-dry garments.
One of merino wool's chief advantages over polyester (used in synthetic base layers) is its natural ability to resist odors. Of course, even wool's odor-fighting ability can be overwhelmed by a week-long backpacking trip or too many hours spent near a smoky fire. In general, though, wool substantially outperforms synthetic materials in its ability to minimize odors.
Frequency of cleaning: Launder merino wool regularly.
Mass-market laundry detergents are generally considered safe and acceptable for machine-washable merino wool. Avoid any that contain chlorine bleach.
Wool has a high resistance to acid, yet some U.S. detergents contain an elevated alkali content that, if used over an extended time, may weaken wool fibers. Other evidence indicates that, over time, the use of household detergents can cause light-colored woolens to yellow slightly. It's the same effect wool experiences if it is exposed to excessive amounts of ultraviolet light (direct sunlight).
One wool-clothing manufacturer, Ibex, recommends mild cleaning products such as Ivory Snow. Producers of clean-rinsing fabric-care products for outdoor clothing (from Granger's, Nikwax, ReviveX and Sport-Wash) offer wool-specific laundry washes. If a household detergent is used, consider choosing those with minimal additives, usually labeled "Free" or "Clear." Mild detergents may extend the life of merino wool products.
What about Woolite? It is composed primarily of coconut oil, which gives garments a luxuriously soft feel. A minority opinion in the textile trade believes its oily residue may diminish wool's absorption and release of moisture, which is how the fibers produce both a cooling and warming effect during temperature extremes. Opinions vary on its use.
Wool is less resistant to abrasion that other fibers. Therefore never wash wool with any item that includes exposed hook-and-loop (rip-and-stick) fasteners on cuffs or pockets. For optimal care, wash wool items only with other soft garments, such as other knits.
Icebreaker, another maker of performance wool garments, proposes a 1-time exception to the wash-with-soft-fabrics guideline stated above. When laundering its merino wool garments for the first time, Icebreaker suggests machine-washing in cool or warm water on normal cycle with "hard" fabrics (denim, for example) to remove any loose fibers. In subsequent launderings, use the normal cycle and wash with like colors and textures.
Other points to remember:
In general, hang-drying or flat-drying is preferred. Refer to individual care instructions to determine if a dryer can be used. SmartWool, for example, is one manufacturer that green-lights tumble drying for all of its socks and base layers on low heat. The company adds, however, laying any garment flat to dry will enhance its appearance and reduce shrinkage (not just wool garments).
Add no fabric-softening dryer sheets when a dryer is used.
To speed dry time:
If is fairly rare for insects to attack woolen products. Several specialized insect families (clothes moths and carpet beetles) are able to digest wool when in their larval stages. However, these species are more attracted to wool in its raw form than as a finished product. Some wool products also contain an insect-resistant treatment to deter attack.
A few suggestions:
Learn more about the benefits of wearing wool during highly aerobic activity in our wool clothing article.
Washing down items is an event, a process, not something done casually. Many people choose to have a down-cleaning professional handle the task. (Do NOT dry clean a down item, however.)
Laundering a down garment (but not a sleeping bag) can sometimes be handled at home, depending on the size of the garment. More often, though, it's better to handle the task at a facility equipped with a large-capacity commercial washer and dryer.
Fabrics used in compression clothing are typically a rugged breed of polyester blended with stretchy spandex. It's possible that cycling or triathlon shorts that include a chamois may require specialized handling. Be sure to follow care instructions provided with each garment.
In general:
Use a specialized cleaning product (examine the choices available from Granger's, Nikwax, ReviveX and Sport-Wash) or a mild detergent, preferably one of the "Free" or "Clear" varieties. Mass-market detergents are usually considered acceptable as well.
Some techniques offered here may conflict with manufacturer care directions. REI offers such tips only as suggestions for people desperate to remedy a stubborn cleaning issue that defied standard resolution. None of these suggestions are guaranteed to work. NOTE: Employ them at your own risk.
Perspiration: Apply liquid detergent directly to the stain or soak in warm water with a presoak product for 15 to 30 minutes. Then launder. If the stain, try laundering again before attempting to machine-dry the garment.
Oil (such as sunscreen or insect repellent): Start with one of the following:
Whatever treatment you choose, massage the solution into the stain. Using additional detergent, wash it in the warmest water allowable for your garment. After rinsing, inspect the garment before attempting to machine-dry it. If some portion of the stain remains, repeat the treatment without machine-drying.
Mud, blood, food (known as protein stains): If the stain is fresh, soak and agitate in cold water prior to washing. If dried, soak in cold water with detergent or a presoak product. Wash in warm (not hot) water. (Hot water can set some stains, particularly blood.) Inspect before attempted to machine-dry the garment. If necessary, repeat the soak-then-wash process for 30+ minutes before machine-drying.
Our friends at SmartWool offer this anecdotal tip: Human saliva can be effective against blood. (They assure us this is no joke.) Spit on a blood stain, rub it in with a finger or soft brush until the blood dissolves, then wash. With wool, however, do not overagitate the stain; doing so could promote shrinkage at that spot.
Grass or ink (dye stains): Use hair spray; rub gently with white cloth or paper. Avoid excessive rubbing, though; it could spread the stain.
Red wine (tannin stains): Pour on some club soda; rub gently with white cloth or paper. As with ink, avoid excessive rubbing. Wash soon using detergent. Do not use bar soap or soap flakes.
Nonchlorine bleach can be tried on severe spot stains, but it offers no guarantee of removal. Realize some stains simply cannot be removed.
Odors: Laundering usually removes most odors. If they persist, try storing them in a box or closet with an open container of baking soda, activated charcoal or calcium carbonate crystals. Another option: Sprinkle soda directly on a fabric and let it stand for a day or longer; eventually shake it off or use a hand vacuum.
Mildew: For guidance please refer to our article Tent Care.
Fabrics care tags sometimes include few or no words, just small line drawings accompanied by dots, dashes, tangential lines and other markings that at first glance resemble some sort of ancestral artwork.
Instead they are international fabric care symbols. To better understand the nuances they convey, view our Guide to Fabric Care Symbols.
Last updated: June 2009
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