How to Choose Crampons

Crampons are a necessity when you are traveling on snow and ice and don't want to slip. With them, you can cross glaciers, ascend snow slopes, climb frozen waterfalls and scale vertical-to-overhanging ice-smeared rock.

The past few years have seen a significant shift in crampon design. Because the majority of alpinists and ice climbers today are choosing leather or synthetic-leather boots (instead of plastic mountaineering boots), so-called “semi-rigid” construction with horizontal frames are the rule. And, thanks to modern design and manufacturing technique, crampons have become lighter and better fitting.

The Right Crampon for You

Crampons are becoming more specialized by activity. Super-lightweight traction devices are made for everyday winter walking. More traditional models are designed for snow and glacier travel, technical hiking (when you bring along an ice axe), and winter or summer mountaineering. Crampons designed for frozen waterfalls or mixed routes that involve both ice and rock are now increasingly technical.

Use this chart to help match the crampon to your activity. When my husband, John, and I competed in the ice-climbing section of the X-Games, we picked very technical crampons that were designed for frontpointing up vertical to overhanging ice. When we go hiking in the Cascades in the summer with our three daughters, we tuck lightweight aluminum crampons into our packs in case we run into snowfields. Either way, we know we have the right tools for both performance and safety.

Crampon Frames

Frame Materials

• Steel crampons are the best for general mountaineering. Their durability makes them essential for technical, steep and icy terrain.
• Aluminum crampons are ideal for approaches and ski mountaineering. Their lower weight makes them better to have on alpine climbs, but they will wear out significantly faster than steel if used frequently on rocky terrain.

Frame Alignment

It used to be that you’d buy a crampon with a vertically oriented frame to use with double plastic boots. However, since climbers have generally moved from plastic boots to insulated leather boots, crampons aren’t required to be as rigid. Horizontally oriented frames are now the rule. These frames flex for walking and, because the steel or aluminum lays flat, your feet are closer to the ground than with vertical frames so you enjoy greater stability. The flat bars also repel snow more efficiently.

Weight

Aluminum crampons are the lightest, but as you save weight you generally decrease durability and strength. For non-technical climbing, aluminum is a good choice—just don’t try mixed rock-and-snow climbing in aluminum crampons.

Construction

While hinged and rigid crampons are still available, the vast majority in use today can be described as semi-rigid. This refers to the rigidity of the bar linking the toe and heel sections.

A semi-rigid design offers the advantage of good performance in the broadest variety of conditions. It provides sufficient flex for winter walking yet is rigid enough for moderate ice climbing. For example, I have used semi-rigid crampons to climb Telluride’s Bridal Veil Falls since I needed something that could perform on the approach as well as on the technical climb.

On some models, an adjustment can be made to the linking bar that changes the crampon from a semi-rigid to a flexible mode. This can make it more comfortable for hiking and less likely to ball up with snow.

Semi-rigid crampons are easier to adjust than the old rigid designs and fit a greater variety of boot shapes. If you have a highly curved boot, you can get an asymmetrical center bar as an accessory to get a better fit. Or you can try a longer or flex (spring steel) center bar depending on the size and type of your boot.

Note: There are left and right crampons in a semi-rigid design. This is determined by the orientation of the center bar.

Bindings

Crampons attach to most boots using one of the 3 binding types described below. If you wear overboots (for high-altitude or very cold conditions), make sure you try on crampons with these boots in place, as their extra rubber and fabric can affect crampon fit.

Hybrid

Sometimes called mixed or semi-step crampons, these feature a heel lever and toe strap. They require boots with a stiff sole plus a heel groove or welt to hold the heel lever. The toe strap, however, doesn’t need a welt to fit securely. These are easy to put on with gloves, as you don’t need to clean out the toe welt and line it up—you just pull on the toe strap and throw the heel lever.

Step-In

In this system, a wire bail holds the toe in place and a heel cable with tension lever attaches the crampon to the heel. If the boot/crampon fit is right, this results in a very secure system. This is also the easiest style to put on with gloves and in snowy conditions. For a step-in binding, boots need to have rigid soles and at least a 3/8” welt or groove on the heel and toe. An ankle strap is also typically part of the system. Another advantage of a step-in system is that you can move the front bail to adjust the length of front points according to the type of terrain. Step-in crampons are recommended for use with ski mountaineering and telemark boots.

Strap-On

This style usually features plastic toe and heel bindings backed by the added security of nylon webbing straps. The beauty of this system is that it can be used with virtually any boot or shoe you have (just make sure the center bar is compatible with the flex of your boot or shoe). While these take longer to attach than hybrid or step-in models, they can be fit tightly enough for moderate ice routes. They are a great choice if you’ll be using multiple boots with the same crampon. Strap-on bindings, however, aren’t quite as precise as step-ins—you can get a small amount of movement between the boot and crampons.

Points

Number of Points

Most crampons have 10 or 12 points positioned under your instep and following the shape of the boot. You might need to adjust the front bails of the crampon to get the correct point extension.

Frontpoints

This refers to the forward-facing points (or point) on crampons. Frontpoints are not needed for snow walking. For general mountaineering, it is easier to walk with less frontpoint sticking out. For technical climbing, you’ll want long frontpoints. Most step-in technical crampons have different front bail positions, so you can adjust the toe position according to whether you are walking or climbing.

Here are a few frontpoint options for more technical users:

• Horizontal: These dual points are suitable for almost any alpine climbing or ice/snow climbing.
• Vertical: These dual points are preferred for steep waterfall and mixed climbs. These frontpoints slip easily into cracks and are adjustable and replaceable. Some technical-ice crampons have secondary frontpoints for added support and traction.
• Monopoint: This single point is popular for technical waterfall and mixed climbing. The specific demands of a technical waterfall or mixed alpine route (as well as the conditions) often dictate the type of crampon that’s best suited for the task.

Crampon/Boot Compatibility

Boot and crampon compatibility is essential for performance and safety. Your boot type ultimately tells you what options you have in binding systems. For example, ultralight strap-on crampons will work on ultralight hiking boots, but they are not suitable for mountaineering or ice climbing. A crampon strapped to a flexible-soled boot will not fit as securely as on a rigid-soled boot. Some considerations:

Determine what type of boot you have. Is the sole highly flexible, semi-flexible or rigid? Does it have toe or heel welts, or both? If you have highly flexible boots without toe welts, you may need a new boot if you are planning to wear them with technical climbing crampons.

What activities are you planning? If you are buying a crampon for mountaineering or ice climbing, look at the toe and heel of your boot. You have a handful of crampon binding options for different toe and heel attachment systems. If you’ll primarily be walking rather than climbing, consider less-technical crampons with a strap-on binding. Keep in mind that for step-in crampons, you need stiff-soled boots with thick welts or grooves at the toe and heel.

Match the flexibility of your footwear with the flexibility of the crampon. For highly flexible boots, get a model with a flexible center bar that connects the front and back. You can wear aluminum crampons with sneakers (and strap-on bindings) for light mountaineering or glacier travel, but the trick is to make sure the flexibility of the crampon and attachment system fits your footwear.

Bring along your boots when shopping. This is the best way to make sure a crampon fits. Get the right center bar so you fit the boot in the best way possible for flex, shape and length. Climbers have long made micro-adjustments, like adjusting the toe bail, to secure a seamless fit. Consult with a professional boot fitter to dial in the boot/crampon interface.

When in doubt, go with a strap-on system. This fits best with most footwear, and it’s better to error on the side of getting a crampon that fits!

Crampon Accessories

Anti-Balling Plates: Most crampons come with an anti-balling plate (usually made of ABS plastic) to prevent snow from sticking to the bottom of the crampon. This is important to keep you from losing traction. Anti-balling systems are highly encouraged by the UIAA (International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation) which requires their benefits to be included with crampon instructions.

Crampon Cases and Point Covers: Protect your pack and yourself from sharp crampon points with rubber point covers or a crampon case which is typically made of rugged, puncture-resistant nylon. Cases make for quick and easy storage; rubber point covers are less bulky and less expensive.

Gaiters: In addition to a crampon case, consider a sturdy pair of gaiters to protect your lower legs and apparel from getting nicked by sharp crampon points.

Spare Parts: You can buy alternative center bars for most crampons. These bars can make the crampon more or less flexible, or allow you to extend a crampon to fit bigger boots. If traveling to remote area, it’s a good idea to bring along extra toe and heel bails, screws and center bar.

Crampon Care

All crampons will require some adjustment and maintenance. When shopping for crampons, keep in mind that some styles require tools to make adjustments while others, more conveniently, do not.

For maintenance considerations, read our important tips on crampon care.

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