Mt. Shasta Climb
At 14,162 feet, Mt. Shasta is the second highest volcanic peak in the lower 48 states. REI Adventures features two routes, each one during the appropriate season, in order to accommodate aspiring Shasta summiteers. On most June and July climbs we travel to Shasta's south side to ascend the Avalanche Gulch route. This route is a classic steep snow climb, with much to offer the beginning mountaineer. In August, we climb Shasta's northeast face. Whichever route you choose, expect an instructional focus on basic skills development and in the use of technical equipment such as crampons and an ice axe during the "Snow School" portions of this course. The route is ascended at a pace that allows time for this.
This trip is conducted by Shasta Mountain Guides, llc. Shasta Mountain Guides operates under a Special Use permit of the Shasta Trinity National Forest.
Mt. Shasta Climb: The South Face – Avalanche Gulch Itinerary:
- Night before
Day 1 Climb to your first camp today with time to review mountaineering basics.
Day 2 Make your way to the higher second camp and practice your climbing skills along the way.
Day 3 By way of Avalanche Gulch, aim for the summit of Mt. Shasta.
Mt. Shasta Climb: The Northeast Face – Hotlum/Bolam Ridge Itinerary:
- Night before
Day 1 Climb to your first camp today with time to review mountaineering basics.
Day 2 The summit of Mt. Shasta is our goal today, by way of the impressive Hotlum-Bolam Ridge.
Day 3 Our last day on the mountain, we begin our descent.
Although we do our best to adhere to the schedule listed above, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control. This trip is operated rain or shine.
Contact REI Adventures prior to purchasing your airline tickets to confirm the trip has the minimum number of participants required to operate.
Professional instruction and guiding; meals as noted in the daily itinerary; 2- or 3-person tents; group climbing equipment and cooking gear; group first-aid kit, water filter; campsite and summit permit fees
Transportation from your hometown to group meeting point; hotel night stays before and after the trip; insurance of any kind; alcoholic beverages; soft drinks; guide gratuities; lunches and snack items (see pack list for detailed guidance) and items of a personal nature.
Redding, California: 60 miles
There is no reliable transfer service from any airport to our meeting place. Anticipate renting a car if flying in for this weekend getaway.
This trip is rated Strenuous (5).
The South Face
We plan to climb for 4 hours or more on most days, but our summit day will potentially exceed 12-14 hours and is very strenuous. We will be traveling on steep and often exposed terrain, gaining over 2,000 feet in elevation most days and descending around 7,500 feet after having climbed to the summit in the morning on the final day. We will travel at altitudes between 6,500 and just over 14,000 feet while carrying heavy packs at times on steep snow and ice. The terrain and conditions will require the use of specialized equipment for climbing ice or snow, including ropes, harnesses, helmets, crampons, ice axes and more. To maximize your enjoyment of the trip and the likelihood that you will summit, we suggest that you engage in a regular exercise regimen prior to your departure. We also recommend that you stay well hydrated prior to departure to assist in mitigating altitude sickness. Most important to your enjoyment of the trip is your overall fitness level. Previous experience is highly recommended and a physician’s release is required prior to participating in this course.
The Northeast Face
We plan to climb for 5 hours or more on most days, with our summit day potentially exceeding 12 hours as we ascend about 5,000 feet then immediately descent the same route back to high camp. We will travel on steep and often exposed terrain, gaining over 3,000 feet in elevation our first day and dropping the same on the final day. We will travel at altitudes between 7,000 and just over 14,000 feet while carrying heavy packs at times on steep snow and ice. The terrain and conditions will require the use of specialized equipment for climbing ice or snow, including ropes, harnesses, helmets, crampons, ice axes and more. To maximize your enjoyment of the trip and the likelihood that you will summit, we suggest that you engage in a regular exercise regimen prior to your departure. We also recommend that you stay well hydrated prior to departure to assist in mitigating altitude sickness. Most important to your enjoyment of the trip is your overall fitness level. Previous experience is highly recommended and a physician’s release is required prior to participating in this course.
Base camp temperatures can range from the 60s+ during the day to well below freezing at night. Summit temperatures can drop to the teens (or lower) and persistent wind is common. Although Shasta enjoys excellent weather for much of the summer, as with any large mountain, it generates its own weather and snowfall is possible even during the summer months. Trip members should arrive prepared for all possibilities by following the gear recommendations below.
Mt. Shasta is over 14,000’ high and is ascended rapidly. As such, some climbers experience symptoms of altitude sickness during the climb. These symptoms can include headache, nausea, loss of appetite, difficulty breathing, and general weakness. Sometimes, judgment is impaired in individuals experiencing the effects of altitude sickness, causing them to want to continue climbing when it is no longer advisable for them to do so. Our guides will determine if any individual is displaying symptoms of altitude sickness that may put him or her in serious danger, or endanger other individuals in the group. By participating in this climb, you are agreeing to accept the REI guide's judgment should they advise you not to make a summit attempt.
This trip is subject to the booking information set forth in the current REI Adventures Weekend Reservation Information. Please read this information carefully and call us if you have any questions. A full gear list and detailed pre-trip information is sent upon sign-up. We highly recommend the purchase of travel insurance through REI Adventures. If coverage is purchased at the time of your initial reservation, the 'Pre-existing Conditions Exclusion' is waived (certain exclusions apply).
We look forward to having you join us for the trip of a lifetime! Why wait? Space is limited, reserve your adventure today.
Mt. Shasta Climb
Weather
Base camp temperatures can range from the 60s+ during the day to well below freezing at night. Summit temperatures can drop to the teens (or lower) and persistent wind is common. Although Shasta enjoys excellent weather for much of the summer, as with any large mountain, it generates its own weather, and snowfall is possible even during the summer months. Trip members should arrive prepared for all possibilities by following the gear recommendations below.Gear Checklist
- Tent (2- or 3-person)
- Group cooking gear/kitchen (stoves, pots, etc.)
- Main climbing rope
- Climbing harness
- Backpack—internal frame, 80 liter minimum
- *Sleeping bag, 20º F minimum, down or synthetic
- *Sleeping pad: full length closed-cell foam pad or Therm-a-Rest
- *Helmet, designed for climbing (bicycle helmets are not acceptable)
- *Crampons: Must be 12-point
- *Ice axe (65-75 cm – no larger)
- Carabiners: 1 locking carabiner
- Midweight wool or fleece jacket/sweater
- Midweight, thermal underwear top and bottom, synthetic or wool (no cotton)
- Lightweight convertible pants or shorts (late spring and summer)
- Synthetic T-shirt or long-sleeve shirt
- Synthetic underwear (briefs, bras)
- Hiking socks and liner socks - 2 pairs of each
- Bring a few lightweight, easily washable items for travel and use when not climbing
- Gaiters, mid-calf length minimum
- Insulated, waterproof ski/climbing glove or mitts, 1 pair
- Wool or fleece mittens/gloves, 1 pair
- Sun hat (with a brim)
- Wool or fleece hat
- Bandana for sun protection
- Headlamp with new batteries
- Sunglasses with dark lenses and side glare protection, often called glacier glasses
- Parka (MANDATORY): Either down or synthetic fill, rated to 10º F. A parka with hood is in addition to the waterproof shell jacket and other required upper-body layers. It is worn over all other layers, primarily on rest breaks and occasionally while climbing
- Waterproof, breathable shell jacket with attached hood (ponchos not acceptable)
- Waterproof, breathable shell pants with side zippers allowing for easy on/off over boots
- *Climbing boots: Double plastic boots are highly recommended. Guides require plastic boots in certain weather conditions
- Camp shoes: lightweight sneakers (something lightweight other than your plastic boots)
- Lunch items for each day (easily packable, non-perishable, energy bars and real foods)
- Energy snacks and powdered drinks
- Eating utensils: 1 large bowl, insulated mug or cup, spoon
- Two 1-quart water bottles (no hydration packs as the tubes freeze easily)
- Sun block and lip balm w/high SPF
- Toiletry kit (small quantity of toilet paper, towelettes/wet wipes, small hand sanitizer)
- Watch with alarm or travel clock
- One large garbage bag
- Personal first-aid kit (i.e. any necessary medications, extra blister care)
- Ski poles, preferably adjustable (highly recommended)
- Camera, spare batteries (lithium, not standard alkaline)
- Reading and writing materials
- Down or fleece vest
- Down booties (early season only)
- Earplugs
- Compass
- Altimeter
- Personal tent, if desired (but remember, you'll be carrying it on your own!
Feel free to give us a call at (800) 622-2236 should you have any questions regarding the gear list. The staff at our stores and Direct Sales (800-426-4840) will also be happy to help you with gear questions. Or check out www.rei.com/learn. The Expert Advice section on our "Learn" page has great information to help you prepare for your trip.
REVIEW SNAPSHOT®
by PowerReviewsPros
- Group camaraderie (11)
- Guides (11)
- Exceeded expectations (10)
- Well organized itinerary (10)
- Activity level (9)
Cons
Best Uses
- Reviewer Profile:
- Avid adventurer (7), Casual adventurer (5)
- Why Did You Choose to Travel with REI Adventures?:
- Good value (9), I liked the itinerary (9), Destination (8), All the details planned for me (7), Travel with like-minded outdoor enthusiasts (7)
Reviewed by 13 customers
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Pros
- Accommodations
- Activity Level
- Exceeded Expectations
- Food
- Group Camaraderie
- Guides
- Once in a Lifetime Experience
- Quality Equipment Provided
- Well Organized Itinerary
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about REI Adventures Mt. Shasta Climb:
This was an unforgettable expedition!!! Our guides, Lynette, Pat, and Rich were the most educated, most accommodating, caring, and inspirational guides I have ever met. Their main goals were safety and to provide a fun experience. That was exactly what the climb encompassed. Every aspect of the trip was safe, very educational, and fun. Our guides provided us with excellent training and tips for our upcoming Illimani expedition. Without a doubt, it was our guides that made this experience a memorable success!!
- Why Did You Choose to Travel with REI Adventures?:
- Destination, Good Value
- Why did you choose this trip?:
- This trip was purchased as a Christmas gift for my girlfriend. We will be climbing Mt. Illimani in Bolivia next month, and this trip was set up as preparation and a great instructive learning experience.
- What was the highlight of your trip?:
- The highlight of the trip was Summit night. Leaving at 2AM under a blanket of a billion stars was amazing! It was actually easier and more comfortable climbing under the night sky. Witnessing the sunrise and the mountain's massive shadow above the horizon was an incredible spectacle. Reaching the summit was an unforgettable and spiritual experience.
- What would be your advice to potential travelers?:
- If you want to have a great and comfortable experience, take the climb seriously. Be sure to train for the climb. Cardio and strength training will be very helpful. Expect to carry your gear up to high camp and expect at least a 7 hr. summit climb. The more you prepare, the easier the climb will be.
Comments about REI Adventures Mt. Shasta Climb:
Great Experience. Guides were great. Awesome mountain,
Bottom LineYes, I would recommend this to a friend
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Pros
- Activity Level
- Exceeded Expectations
- Group Camaraderie
- Guides
- Once in a Lifetime Experience
Cons
- None
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Comments about REI Adventures Mt. Shasta Climb:
Be flexible. Due to weather we had to change our plans. Be prepared that you may have less time to acclimatize. I would suggest spending more than one night at altitude before starting your trip if possible. If you don't mind the weight, bring an extra water bottle. Summit day is a long one and being properly hydrated helps. Bring lots of snacks! The food is very good but you need to keep your energy up during the day as well as during your summit attempt. Buy a quality waterproof and windproof layer. It is no fun being cold.
- Why Did You Choose to Travel with REI Adventures?:
- Active Adventures, Commitment to Sustainability, Destination, Good Value, Respectable Company, Travel with Like-minded Outdoor Enthusiasts
- Why did you choose this trip?:
- I was looking for a trip where I could learn about about mountaineering from an expert. This was my first mountaineering trip and I did not want to try such a risky endeavor without the proper guidance. I also wanted to have the experience of climbing a mountain in the snow with all of the snow/ice gear (crampons, ice axe, etc).
- What was the highlight of your trip?:
- Summiting was the number one highlight. All of the hard work and preparation paid off and it was a sense of accomplishment that I will remember always. Very close behind was the great guides/fellow travelers. This was my first experience climbing in the snow and camping in the snow and the guides provided all of the support and knowledge to make this a thoroughly enjoyable experience.
- What would be your advice to potential travelers?:
- The guides are wonderful. When you meet your travel group they will review all of the gear that you brought to insure that you are prepared. Ask as many questions as you want, they are a amazing source of knowledge. Also, don't take this trip lightly. Train, train, train. It will make the experience all the more enjoyable if you are physically capable. Be prepared for a 10-14 hour summit day
Bottom LineYes, I would recommend this to a friend
Images shared by PatrickMi
On the summit
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Summit day (getting ready to leave
(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
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Pros
- Accommodations
- Activity Level
- Food
- Group Camaraderie
- Guides
- Once in a Lifetime Experience
Cons
- Quality Equipment Provided
Best Uses
Comments about REI Adventures Mt. Shasta Climb:
My husband and I were at least 20 years older than everyone else in our party, though we were both in plenty good shape--so as the slowest one to summit, I am deeply grateful to our great guide whose patience made that possible.
Pretty much everything was excellent, with just two exceptions, the primary one being the rental equipment: check yours out as carefully as you can. We were so concerned about having to rent plastic boots that we arrived a day early just to try for decently fitting ones, but after the third pair, my husband still wound up with such severe blisters after day one that he did not attempt the summit (also due to some cramping in his legs). I got a pair of ancient Koflachs which the girl instructed me to lace loose at the toes and tight around the ankles, which gave me a whopping "shin burn" blister by the end of day one; when I mentioned this to our guide, he corrected that I should lace them TIGHT at the toes, LOOSE around the ankles--but, too late! Also I first got a pair of gaitors with a broken snap, tried another pair which they said were the last, also with a missing snap, so they kindly let me combine the two that did have snaps (both lefts) and didn't charge me, saying they weren't going to be renting gaitors any more; but if they had had better ones available, perhaps with a "rent-to-own" option, I might have bought them. We were glad we brought our much lighter-weight tent, and in retrospect, we wished we'd brought our own lighter boots for the hike in and out, to save the behemoths for crampon day--we'd willingly have carried them just to avoid the blisters!
Our one other reservation was that because we apparently arrived at base camp a little late, "snow school" seemed awfully casual and even a little haphazard (like,"do you want to show them this?"-"no, let's go make supper..."), which didn't instill the most confidence. Maybe it'd be better to introduce a little at the very outset when everyone was fresh?--even though there wasn't any snow there yet...on the lawn while assembling our gear...?
All that said, however, our guides were competent and fun, our fellow travelers were good-spirited, the mountain was gorgeous, and we had a trip we will never forget. Thank you all!
- Why Did You Choose to Travel with REI Adventures?:
- Active Adventures, All the Details Planned for Me, Commitment to Sustainability, Destination, Good Value, I Liked the Itinerary, Recommended by a Friend, Travel with Like-minded Outdoor Enthusiasts
- Why did you choose this trip?:
- My husband did, for our 30th anniversary, because on our honeymoon we climbed Mt Whitney (the highest in the lower 48!)
- What was the highlight of your trip?:
- Glissading down! GREAT fun! Summitting was pretty awesome too though.
- What would be your advice to potential travelers?:
- If you don't already have them, and if you can afford it, buy your own plastic boots, far enough ahead to know they're broken in. Everybody on our trip got blisters except the guides--and the others had even bought their boots.
Pros
- Group Camaraderie
- Guides
- Once in a Lifetime Experience
- Well Organized Itinerary
Cons
- Poop bags
Best Uses
Comments about REI Adventures Mt. Shasta Climb:
The experience was unforgettable and the memories from this trip will be cherished always. The guides were superb, the itinerary was perfect and the challenge was well worth it. Of course I would have liked the use of a flushing toilet, sleeping on my own bed and being able to shower daily. But this is all part of the experience.
- Why Did You Choose to Travel with REI Adventures?:
- All the Details Planned for Me, I Liked the Itinerary, Recommended by a Friend
- Why did you choose this trip?:
- I wanted to give myself a challenge and try something I've never done before. I did Mt Whitney the year prior so this seemed like a good next logical step.
- What was the highlight of your trip?:
- Of course summiting was amazing and made the trip that much more satisfying. However, the overall experience was the highlight. The interaction with the guides, bonding with my two friends, making new friends with the other members of the group and the shared goal by all to take on the mountain was just awesome.
- What would be your advice to potential travelers?:
- Don't underestimate this trip...it is very physical and mental. I would definitely train for it and do a lot of hiking up steep hills/trails and with a heavy pack. The better prepared you are for it, the more you'll enjoy.
Bottom LineYes, I would recommend this to a friend
Images shared by hoon22
At the summit!! yes!!
Images shared by hoon22
At the trailhead....Bunny Flat.
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Pros
- Exceeded Expectations
- Food
- Guides
- Well Organized Itinerary
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about REI Adventures Mt. Shasta Climb:
I would not have done this climb any other way. It is well planned and very enjoyable. The trip itinerary gives you enough time to acclimatize, feel comfortable with climbing on snow and get the appropriate amount of rest/ recovery. The guides are awesome. They are very knowledgeable and keep you safe. I found the snow school portion to be very beneficial.
We saw a lot of climbers making mistakes and climbing inefficiently. If you are interested in climbing and are inexperienced, then do yourself a favor and spend the money on this trip. It is well worth it.
- Why Did You Choose to Travel with REI Adventures?:
- All the Details Planned for Me, I Liked the Itinerary, Travel with Like-minded Outdoor Enthusiasts
- Why did you choose this trip?:
- I have been getting into mountaineering over the last couple of years. I always wanted to do a snow climb and thought Shasta would be a good starting point. When reading the description and the itineray, it seemed like a perfect trip for the beginning climber.
- What was the highlight of your trip?:
- Everyting about the trip was awesome. The itinerary, the group, and the guides. Reaching the summit was spectacular.
- What would be your advice to potential travelers?:
- Get the recommended equipment and make sure you are in good shape.
Pros
- Accommodations
- Activity Level
- Exceeded Expectations
- Food
- Group Camaraderie
- Guides
- Quality Equipment Provided
- Well Organized Itinerary
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about REI Adventures Mt. Shasta Climb:
This was a dream come true for me. It was the closest that I could get to a experience like the Himalayans. The guides were compassionate and friendly. Meeting other people with the same or close to the same passion as you was awesome. It was hard and demanding yet rewarding. Highly recommended.
- Why Did You Choose to Travel with REI Adventures?:
- All the Details Planned for Me, Destination, Good Value, I Liked the Itinerary
- Why did you choose this trip?:
- I chose Mt. Shasta because I wanted a beginner mountaineering experience before doing anything like Mt. Rainier or Mt. McKinley. I wanted to learn basics to mountaineering and I did get that experience.
- What was the highlight of your trip?:
- Making it to the top is a highlight but glissading to camp was a fun experience. I was laughing but being cautious the whole time going down. Another highlight was just seeing the shadow of the mountain when climbing in the morning.
- What would be your advice to potential travelers?:
- If you have a passion for climbing mountains or getting into it, this is the climb. This is a different hard and demanding experience.
Bottom LineYes, I would recommend this to a friend
Images shared by Hiker Liker
Shadow of Mt. Shasta
Images shared by Hiker Liker
Break Time with a Beautiful View!!!!
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Pros
- Accommodations
- Activity Level
- Exceeded Expectations
- Food
- Group Camaraderie
- Guides
- Once in a Lifetime Experience
- Quality Equipment Provided
- Well Organized Itinerary
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about REI Adventures Mt. Shasta Climb:
This is one of the most intense activity that I have ever done in my life. It was pretty tough - with high temps and heat during the day, freezing cold during the night, constant sun glare, and tough terrain. I got through all of that because of 2 things - we had the best darn guides (Eric and Victor) with us and the training that I got into (I wish I did more climbing). It all paid off and it was worth the struggle and the long climb. The summit was splendid and the entire time the view around the mountain was breathtaking. The experience will remain in my memory embedded for ever. My first attempt at summit - a success. Thanks to the wonderful and skilled guides (Eric/Victor) who guided and trained us with proper climbing techniques and hydration/breathing skills. This is a very aptly designed climb for those who want to summit in their first attempt (and be in shape to do that). [...]
- Why Did You Choose to Travel with REI Adventures?:
- Active Adventures, Commitment to Sustainability, Destination, Good Value, I Liked the Itinerary, Travel with Like-minded Outdoor Enthusiasts
- Why did you choose this trip?:
- The activity level and the snow/ice climb.
- What was the highlight of your trip?:
- Sitting on top of the summit @ 14,179 ft!
- What would be your advice to potential travelers?:
- Train by hiking/climbing hills/mountains, endurance, and strength training.
Bottom LineYes, I would recommend this to a friend
Images shared by schwan002
Summit
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Pros
- Accommodations
- Activity Level
- Educational
- Exceeded Expectations
- Food
- Group Camaraderie
- Guides
- Once in a Lifetime Experience
- Quality Equipment Provided
- Well Organized Itinerary
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about REI Adventures Mt. Shasta Climb:
This trip was amazing I recommend this for anyone interested in trying mountaineering for the first time. I had a great time with amazing people and fun informative guides. By the time we started summit day I felt I had a good knowledge of basic techniques and was excited and confident for the climb. This would not of been the case if the guides were not as good as they were. Not only were the guides wonderful with their instruction but they were also more then willing to answer any questions and help whenever needed. The other adventures on the trip were wonderful to spend time with, chatting and working toward a common goal together. I decided to do this trip not knowing anyone who was going and I am glad I went, it was a great way to meet some amazing people and test myself.
- Why Did You Choose to Travel with REI Adventures?:
- Active Adventures, All the Details Planned for Me, Destination, Good Value, I Liked the Itinerary, Travel with Like-minded Outdoor Enthusiasts
- Why did you choose this trip?:
- I picked this trip to give myself an introduction to mountaineering.
- What was the highlight of your trip?:
- It hard to say that there was only one highlight of the trip but I loved summiting along with snow school, and just camping at 50/50 flats.
- What would be your advice to potential travelers?:
- Make sure to bring snacks that you love for summit day because you are going to be eating something every hour on the way up.
Bottom LineYes, I would recommend this to a friend
Images shared by Gear Addict
50/50 Flats
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14,162
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Pros
- Accommodations
- Activity Level
- Exceeded Expectations
- Food
- Group Camaraderie
- Guides
- Instruction
- Once in a Lifetime Experience
- Quality Equipment Provided
- Well Organized Itinerary
Cons
Best Uses
Comments about REI Adventures Mt. Shasta Climb:
This trip was amazing for me and I would do it again in a heart beat. The guides were amazing fun cool and informative. The guides made sure to take the time to give clear instruction and answer any questions anyone in the group had. The group of people were amazing and just plan fun to be around. I think if these two things weren't there for the trip it would of made the experience much more difficult. I must say we had beautiful weather which also makes it a bit easier.
Go for it and don't forget to enjoy yourself!
- Why Did You Choose to Travel with REI Adventures?:
- Active Adventures, All the Details Planned for Me, Destination, Good Value, I Liked the Itinerary, Travel with Like-minded Outdoor Enthusiasts
- Why did you choose this trip?:
- I chose this trip as an introduction to mountaineering.
- What was the highlight of your trip?:
- The snow school part of the trip was a lot of fun and very important. It made it possible to learn the techniques to get to the top with too much difficulty.
- What would be your advice to potential travelers?:
- Make sure to get good tasting snacks because you are eating snacks over ten times on summit day.
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