Mt. Shasta Climb
At 14,162 feet, Mt. Shasta is the second highest volcanic peak in the lower 48 states. REI Adventures features two routes, each one during the appropriate season, in order to accommodate aspiring Shasta summiteers. On most July climbs we travel to Shasta’s south side to ascend the Avalanche Gulch route. This route is a classic steep snow climb, with much to offer the beginning mountaineer. In late July and August, we climb Shasta’s northeast face. Whichever route you choose, expect an instructional focus on basic skills development and in the use of technical equipment such as crampons and an ice axe during the “Snow School” portions of this course. The route is ascended at a pace that allows time for this.
Mt. Shasta Climb: The South Face – Avalanche Gulch Itinerary:
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Night before
Since we will meet at 9:00 am on day one of your trip, you may choose to arrive in Mt. Shasta City the night before our trip begins.
Hotel night stays are not included in the cost of this trip. See Day 3 description for details. -
Day 1
Your trip begins today in Shasta City. Meet your climbing guide(s) at the Cold Creek Inn at 9:00 am. After a brief orientation, we leave any valuables under lock and key at the Inn and then carpool to the trailhead. We start our ascent at 6,950 ft and traveling up to about 8,000 ft to set-up base camp. Once camp is set up, we’ll begin “Snow School” and cover the basics of ice axe and crampon use, climbing techniques and an introduction to roped travel in preparation for our summit attempt. After snow school we will enjoy an early dinner and retire to our sleeping bags. Meals included: Dinner. Bring your own variety of quick foods to be eaten constantly throughout the day.
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Day 2
Today we move to high camp. We will hike to about 10,000 ft and set up near Lake Helen. Expect to climb for 4 hours or more today. If weather permits, we’ll continue working on skills before dinner and end the night once again with a briefing on the next day’s events and plenty of rest. Meals included: Breakfast and Dinner. Bring your own variety of quick foods to be eaten constantly throughout the day, energy bars and drinks, etc.
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Day 3
Summit day! Our summit attempt commences between 2:00 am and 3:00 am. Our turnaround time may be as early 11:00 am in order to avoid potentially serious hazards that tend to manifest in the afternoon. Depending on conditions, then, the descent to camp may take 2.5 to 4.5 hours. From camp, we pack up and make our final descent to the trailhead. We expect to be back between 4:00pm and 6:00pm. You may consider another night stay at the hotel as you are likely to be very tired. Meals included: Breakfast. Bring your own variety of quick foods to be eaten constantly throughout the day.
Hotel night stays and dinner on the night before day one and on the last night are not included. To make a reservation at the Cold Creek Inn call 530-926-9851. Mention you are traveling with REI Adventures to receive a 15% discount. Be sure to give the Inn at least 24 hours notice.
Mt. Shasta Climb: The Northeast Face – Hotlum/Bolam Ridge Itinerary:
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Night before
Since we will meet at 8:00 am on day one of your trip, you may choose to arrive in Mt. Shasta City the night before our trip begins.
Hotel night stays are not included in the cost of this trip. See Day 3 description for details. -
Day 1
Your trip begins today in Shasta City. Meet your climbing guide(s) at the Cold Creek Inn at 8:00 am. After a brief orientation, we leave any valuables under lock and key at the Inn and then carpool to the trailhead. We start our ascent from the North Gate trailhead at 7,000 ft and will climb through the day to 9,400 ft. where we’ll establish our base camp. This full day of moderate/low angle climbing may take anywhere from 4 to 5 hours, and we’ll stop along the way for lunch. Once we arrive and camp is set up, we’ll begin “Snow School” and cover the basics of ice axe and crampon use, specific climbing techniques, as well as an introduction to roped travel in preparation for our summit attempt. After snow school we will enjoy an early dinner and retire to our sleeping bags. Meals included: Dinner. Bring your own variety of quick foods to be eaten constantly throughout the day.
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Day 2
Summit day! Our summit attempt commences between 2:00 am and 3:00 am. Our turnaround time may be as early 11:00 am in order to avoid potentially serious hazards that tend to manifest in the afternoon. Depending on conditions, then, the descent back to camp may take 2.5 to 4.5 hours. Meals included: Breakfast and Dinner. Bring your own variety of quick foods to be eaten constantly throughout the day, energy bars and drinks, etc.
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Day 3
Today we’ll enjoy a leisurely breakfast, pack and descend from camp back to the trailhead. The descent commonly takes 3 to 3.5 hours. We expect to be back between 2:00 p.m. and 4:00 p.m. You may consider another night stay at the hotel as you are likely to be tired. Meals included: Breakfast. Bring your own variety of quick foods to be eaten constantly throughout the day.
Hotel night stays and dinner on the night before day one and on the last night are not included. To make a reservation at the Cold Creek Inn call 530-926-9851. Mention you are traveling with REI Adventures to receive a 15% discount. Be sure to give the Inn at least 24 hours notice.
Although we do our best to adhere to the schedule listed above, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control. This trip is operated rain or shine.
Contact REI Adventures prior to purchasing your airline tickets to confirm the trip has the minimum number of participants required to operate.
Professional instruction and guiding; all meals from lunch on day one through lunch on day three; 2- or 3-person tents; group climbing equipment and cooking gear; group first-aid kit, water filter; campsite and summit permit fees
Transportation from your hometown to group meeting point; hotel night stays before and after the trip; insurance of any kind; alcoholic beverages; soft drinks; guide gratuities; lunches and snack items (see pack list for detailed guidance) and items of a personal nature.
There is no reliable transfer service from any airport to our meeting place. Anticipate renting a car if flying in for this weekend getaway.
This trip is rated Strenuous (5).
The South Face
We plan to climb for 4 hours or more on most days, but our summit day will potentially exceed 12-14 hours and is very strenuous. We will be traveling on steep and often exposed terrain, gaining over 2,000 feet in elevation most days and descending around 7,500 feet after having climbed to the summit in the morning on the final day. We will travel at altitudes between 6,500 and just over 14,000 feet while carrying heavy packs at times on steep snow and ice. The terrain and conditions will require the use of specialized equipment for climbing ice or snow, including ropes, harnesses, helmets, crampons, ice axes and more. To maximize your enjoyment of the trip and the likelihood that you will summit, we suggest that you engage in a regular exercise regimen prior to your departure. We also recommend that you stay well hydrated prior to departure to assist in mitigating altitude sickness. Most important to your enjoyment of the trip is your overall fitness level. Previous experience is highly recommended and a physician’s release is required prior to participating in this course.
The Northeast Face
We plan to climb for 5 hours or more on most days, with our summit day potentially exceeding 12 hours as we ascend about 5,000 feet then immediately descent the same route back to high camp. We will travel on steep and often exposed terrain, gaining over 3,000 feet in elevation our first day and dropping the same on the final day. We will travel at altitudes between 7,000 and just over 14,000 feet while carrying heavy packs at times on steep snow and ice. The terrain and conditions will require the use of specialized equipment for climbing ice or snow, including ropes, harnesses, helmets, crampons, ice axes and more. To maximize your enjoyment of the trip and the likelihood that you will summit, we suggest that you engage in a regular exercise regimen prior to your departure. We also recommend that you stay well hydrated prior to departure to assist in mitigating altitude sickness. Most important to your enjoyment of the trip is your overall fitness level. Previous experience is highly recommended and a physician’s release is required prior to participating in this course.
Base camp temperatures can range from the 60s+ during the day to well below freezing at night. Summit temperatures can drop to the teens (or lower) and persistent wind is common. Although Shasta enjoys excellent weather for much of the summer, as with any large mountain, it generates its own weather and snowfall is possible even during the summer months. Trip members should arrive prepared for all possibilities by following the gear recommendations below.
Mt. Shasta is over 14,000’ high and is ascended rapidly. As such, some climbers experience symptoms of altitude sickness during the climb. These symptoms can include headache, nausea, loss of appetite, difficulty breathing, and general weakness. Sometimes, judgment is impaired in individuals experiencing the effects of altitude sickness, causing them to want to continue climbing when it is no longer advisable for them to do so. Our guides will determine if any individual is displaying symptoms of altitude sickness that may put him or her in serious danger, or endanger other individuals in the group. By participating in this climb, you are agreeing to accept the REI guide's judgment should they advise you not to make a summit attempt.
This trip is subject to the booking information set forth in the current REI Adventures Weekend Reservation Information. Please read this information carefully and call us if you have any questions. A full gear list and detailed pre-trip information is sent upon sign-up. We highly recommend the purchase of travel insurance through REI Adventures. If coverage is purchased at the time of your initial reservation, the 'Pre-existing Conditions Exclusion' is waived (certain exclusions apply).
We look forward to having you join us for the trip of a lifetime! Why wait? Space is limited, reserve your adventure today.
Mt. Shasta Climb
Weather
Gear Checklist
- Tent (2- or 3-person)
- Group cooking gear/kitchen (stoves, pots, etc.)
- Main climbing rope
- Climbing harness
- Backpack—internal frame 5,000 cu. in. minimum, or external frame 4,000 cu. in. minimum
- *Sleeping bag, 20º F minimum, down or synthetic
- *Sleeping pad: full length closed-cell foam pad or Therm-a-Rest
- *Helmet, designed for climbing (bicycle helmets are not acceptable)
- *Crampons: Must be 12-point
- *Ice axe (65-75 cm – no larger)
- Carabiners: 1 locking carabiner
- Midweight wool or fleece jacket/sweater
- Midweight, thermal underwear top and bottom, synthetic or wool (no cotton)
- Wool or fleece pants (early/late season)
- Lightweight pants (mid-summer)
- Synthetic T-shirts
- Synthetic long-sleeve shirt
- Synthetic, quick-drying hiking shorts if your pants are not convertible
- Hiking socks and liner socks - 3 pairs of each
- Bring a few lightweight, easily washable items for travel and use when not climbing
- Gaiters, mid-calf length minimum
- Waterproof overmitts
- Wool or fleece mittens/gloves, 2 pair
- Thin gloves or mitten liners
- Sun hat
- Wool or fleece hat
- Bandana for sun protection
- Headlamp, spare batteries and bulb (no flashlights)
- Sunglasses with dark lenses and side glare protection—often called glacier glasses
- Parka (MANDATORY): Either down or synthetic fill, rated to 10º F. A parka with hood is in addition to the waterproof shell jacket and other required upper-body layers. It is worn over all other layers, primarily on rest breaks and occasionally while climbing
- Waterproof, breathable shell jacket with attached hood (ponchos not acceptable)
- Waterproof, breathable shell pants with side zippers allowing for easy on/off over boots
- *Climbing boots: Double plastic boots are highly recommended. Guides require plastic boots in certain weather conditions
- Camp shoes: lightweight sneakers (something lightweight other than your plastic boots)
- Lunch items for each day (easily packable, non-perishable, energy bars and real foods)
- Energy snacks and powdered drinks
- Favorite seasoning to flavor freeze-dried food
- Eating utensils: 1 large bowl, insulated mug or cup, spoon
- Two 1-quart water bottles (no hydration packs as the tubes freeze easily)
- Sun block and lip balm w/high SPF
- Toiletry kit
- ½-roll toilet paper
- Hand sanitizer gel
- Towel
- Watch with alarm or travel clock
- Two large and one small garbage bag
- Personal first-aid kit
- Ski poles, preferably adjustable
- Camera and film, spare batteries (lithium, not standard alkaline)
- Reading and writing materials
- Down or fleece vest
- Down booties (early season only)
- Earplugs
- Compass
- Altimeter
- Personal tent, if desired (but remember, you'll be carrying it on your own!
