Hi @Dmitry!

Thanks for always bringing great questions! You've come to the right place for these answers:

You can come to any of our Bay Area stores to get all of your skis tuned. I and all of our Bay shop teams are really proud of the quality of ski tune work we do in our stores here.

The process for tuning AT and resort skis is actually the same. We use a stone 'cutting' wheel to remove the minimum amount of base material that we can for each individual ski to be flat and free from nicks and gouges. If a gouge or scratch is deep, we first fill it in with p-tex material (the same stuff that ski bases are made of) so we don't have to remove too much of the ski bases' material to get them flat.

Then we re-dress the stone wheel so that it cuts 'structure' into the base. Structure is a pattern of tiny grooves that allows the water formed from the top layer of snow melting as the ski passes over it to escape from under the ski base. Water's surface tension naturally creates suction which is felt as drag on the ski. We cut these little grooves- like the treads on your car's tires- to allow the water to pass more freely underneath and the ski to glide over the top. Good structure and wax = a ski that glides freely and fast.

When storing skis, the most important element is a thorough cleaning and application of storage wax. Cleaning and adding wax removes moisture and contaminants, and seals the surface of the ski- and more importantly the steel edges- from moisture. If a ski sits all summer exposed to moisture, rust can develop and we have to remove more edge and base material to get all the rust off- this can shorten the lifespan of a pair of skis.

All skis should be stored in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. The position of a ski when storing is not as important. There is historical lore that skis need to be stored a certain way so they don't flatten and lose their camber. Modern ski construction negates this- they will not deform or lose their shape under their own weight. Make sure nothing is stacked on top of a flat ski, or that nothing is pushing on a vertical ski causing it to bend, and they'll be just fine. 

Bindings and brakes should be just fine too. It's not a bad idea to back all your DIN settings off and let the brakes fully extend at the end of the season, but certainly not a death sentence for your bindings if you forget to do so. Just remember to have your shop re-adjust before the next season starts. 

I hope this is helpful! 

At REI, we believe time outside is fundamental to a life well lived.