I'm a 5'3" female, 110 pounds, and I've been climbing indoors pretty recreationally now for a few months, generally ranging from 1-3 times a week. I'm now looking to specifically train for strength and focus on true improvement on the wall (I'm generally on V2s bouldering and 5.10as TRing).
I've been researching to put together a combined weight room/general exercise portion for overall strength improvement (especially pushing upper-body), and then a climbing-specific portion to improve endurance, finger strength and technique.
Here are a few of the issues I'm running into:
- Routines that are not designed for my starting point. A lot of strength training programs I've found include things like sets of weighted pull-ups, and I can't do a single pull-up from a straight-arm hang yet. I'm looking for regimens that are intense and will push for strong improvements, but don't assume you're beginning from the average athletic man's starting point.
- How much time I should be balancing between general strength training versus climbing-specific training. The end goal is of course sending more, so climbing is primary, but I do think that in this first stage I have some work to do to get my body into an optimal athletic condition for climbing (aka being able to do things like pull-ups). I was planning on going with a combined ARC plan plus gym focus at the beginning so that I'm still on the wall each time (i.e. 30min warm-up and ARC training, then moving into 30min or so of strength sessions).
- How often per week to do all of this? If I'm being realistic, I will be able to dedicate 3x a week to physically going to the gym, perhaps sometimes adding a fourth day where I just go to climb. I've always been active (mostly with soccer/martial arts) but am new to the world of planned training.
Anyone have any good advice or resources to help guide my direction on all of this? *Bonus* portion is also the resources on meal planning to support all of my ambitions!