Hey @rgeorge971 , I am always thrilled to hear about a persons love for climbing.

There are some great answers here already, so I think I just want to add specifically to your ask of "how much time should you be balancing between strength training and climbing?"

Simply by asking that question you are way ahead of me when I started. I can't say enough good things about climbing regularly. Try to adhere to whatever schedule works best for you, and just stick to it. If you can do 3 times a week at the climbing gym, I would recommend you split each day into different disciplines. If possible, climb well below your best grade for an entire day / session each week. This will allow you to focus on your technique. When we climb at or near our level only, we tend to get sloppy,  so climbing regularly below your level to really examine your balance, you ability to rest on your skeleton, to breath, and your grip effort... this is where the magic happens (in my experience anyway)!  It might sound boring, but I like to down climb (negative pull-ups right there!) and sometimes remove a limb if i get bored with the route, meaning don't use your left foot (not so much on roped climbs, more for bouldering).

Day / session 2: focus on your level or just above all while remembering the small tips and tricks you focused on the previous session.

Day 3, I would mix bouldering with strength training and core training.  If you have the ability to get a hang-board or pull-up bar, even just to hang on at home, I recommend it. Otherwise, a grip strengthener. I prefer the style that lights up. And don't over do it. And don't neglect rest days. If possible, add yoga to a day, as core strength and flexibility come in really handy and can many times outperform brute strength in the climbing world.

All of the above is simply my humble opinion or past experience that has for me. I have no certification or training, so these are just friendly suggestions. 🙂  

Happy climbing!

 

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